Björn Buckwalter

Snygg linje, psykande klättring.

Vilken snygg spricka!

Klättrade som Dennis och Johan G rapporterade. Kul. Kanske borde läggas till som annan linje med annan grad och beskrivning?

Tog fyrahundra försök ungefär. Vi upplevde greppen som väldigt stick-känsliga.

Inte dum alls, men Dennis beta (för hård för mig) måste väl vara minst 7B?!

Till slut gick den ner!

Tyckte inte den tillförde mycket till ståstarten.

Hård start.

Lite krystad urtoppning på grund av att endast en smal ränna är renborstad.

Kanske också tog fel väg/beta: gick mer rakt upp över mossan än ”på” areten som linjen visar.

Airy.

Nice bouldery lower half followed by delicate airy slab.

Very pleasant (for the grade). Good mental warm-up for the other lines.

Airy.

Tog ett tag att hitta fungerande beta.

Pumpad!

Snygg linje!

Vilka sköna grepp!

Nice and arguably slightly easier than Bang for the Buck.

Inte mycket för världen, men nära.

Började på samma grepp som Miffa, m a o inte exakt enligt beskrivningen.

Hard first move!

Den här var rolig och lite äcklig och behöver mer trafik så att den inte gror igen.

Var nog mestadels till höger om linjen på topon, men det kändes rimligast.

Olov säger ”Örebros finaste vertikala 6C”. Riktigt trevlig med bra friktion på toppen.

A worthwhile top-out variation for Fear of Frustration (piggy-backing on Skifferaréten).

Det roliga fotarbetet uppväger de vassa greppen.

Trevligt problem, lagom hårt hela vägen och intressant topp.

En gammal nemesis. Gjord som den bör(?) göras: utan hyllan till höger.

Finally, after a year of being close but feeling like I'm starting from scratch with every visit! Great line with frustrating last move. I did the (original?) SDS version and not the version in the new topo showing start on the lump around the corner at the far left.

Big moves on big holds. Rough on the skin.

Skin eater.

Morpho

Nice dyno, sharp rock.

Hard start.

Highball with reachy moves between good (but sharp and painful) holds.

Very nice moves but sharp rock.

Nice and long traverse. Gentle on the skin.

Cramped start but nice second half.

Awkward sitting start but otherwise nice.

Morpho

Nice dyno.

One move wonder.

Morpho one move wonder (luckily it is the first move).

I've struggled with the traverse for quite a while. Good conditions were key to getting through it with energy left to top out.

Worse feet than Science Friction? If you are tall you can at least reach the “jug” from the start.

Fingery and delicate.

Morpho: at least three beta options if you have the reach.

Nice for the grade!

Try not to fall with your back on the curb!

Pinch like you mean it!

Pockets and body tension. Not for fat fingers.

Morpho. I was tall enough to bypass the crux (makes me feel bad when seeing everyone else trying so hard).

Tack Olov!

Stand (4) 2012-09-08.

2017-07-27: Long time coming… 2018-10-18: Originalbetan med skutt istället för TNT-varianten.

Den har suttit långt inne.

Very nice line. Thank you Olov!

Nice line.

Beautiful line, perfect landing.

Nice holds and great top-out; a gem despite the low height. The only downer is that the right starting hold may come off in your face.

Prickly arête but nice big moves on the face.

Olovs beta för folk som saknar finess. ;)

My beta was really hard on the fingers. Perhaps because I didn't dare use the hollow holds with the poor landing.

Delicate balance.

Very delicate. Not the easy warm-up problem I was expecting it to be!

Nice, but frustrating polished foothold. Easier for tall folks.

Terrible flash with 6c roof climbing beta, but plenty of fun!

Nice catch. Reportedly 5c for tallish folks.

Nice moves on big holds. Flashed but had done the standing start (red 17) first.

A easy but worthwhile addition to Rababoum.

Morpho

My line went more from the right (more like the line in the Jingo Wobbly guide).

Had difficulties stepping on this one.

Fun moves on big jugs.

Tung urtoppning.

Finger jam, toe jam (optional), knee bar, roof … this one has a lot to like.

Halvsittande/hängande?

Supersköna grepp, avigt slutskick.

Not obvious how it is best done, but the video beta here might help.

Went up at the thin crack instead of around the corner as shown in the video.

Interesting footwork. Would have been a nice traverse if it hadn't been ruined by garage paint.

Bring a brush.

Very nice problem. Can be climbed with not-so-morpho beta.

Jag har min egen beta utan toehooks. :-P

Instegskrux. 6c i föraren.

Instegskrux. 6a i föraren.

Pleased to add another nice problem to this eminently accessible boulder. :)

Unclear where to finish. I finished on the jug next to Påskdagen.

Very nice.

A hard but nice move into the gaston. Didn't use the big shelf for the feet.

Fun campus moves on good holds. Make sure the top-out has been cleaned before starting.

Hard start followed by nice moves along the arete.

Not only my first FA, but also a lovely problem with great holds and moves. Overall quality rivaling “En norrman i Oslo”.

Done while practicing Tjänstemannen.

Without crash pad. Establishing and the first two moves are much harder than 5 IMHO. (Establishing would be easier with a crash pad.)

Got the sitting start right this time (my tick from 2014-10 was starting in Barndoor).

Without spotters. Falling from the top-out and missing the pads was fine. :-O

Ståstart