Chris Smallwood

Cool problem, felt harder than 6 to me, maybe I was doing it wrong.

Repeated first try today.

Repeated first try today.

Crimpy and funny to climb next to an amazing jug without using it. Would be cool to climb this using beta that jumps or bumps to the jug in the future, not good for my shoulder tweak right now though.

Unsure on the grade... 2 sessions.

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021 Did the high and mid start, double undercling low start eluded me.

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021 Hannah flashed!

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Cool squeeze boulder, not much trickery.

Spent a long time trying to kneebar in the wrong spot before figuring out how to do the crux properly. No idea on the grade but I had to try really hard to pull it off at the end of a long weekend of roof pulling. Fun climbing whether you want to call it v6 or v10.

Climbing at Priest Draw is amazing, local quarrels over what feet/hands you can use and what beta is legitimate is less than amazing.

Nice change of style from everything else at Priest Draw.

Great reachy pocket problem on left side of monster roof.

One of my favorites at Priest Draw

Throw move is cool, beginning is meh.

Amazing boulder problem with several options for the crux, all seem to be height dependent, luckily I could reach the toe hooks. Comp dynos are cool but I just can't so I kept my feet on and compressed the right hand pinch and a left side pull crimp. Would love to see shorter person beta that keeps the difficulty around v9

squat start, might feel V10 if you sit, really fun regardless. 3 or 4 tries.

Second move crux gave me so much trouble and pain. Had one or two heartbreak punts at the top before sending. A problem I thought I had a chance at 5 years ago, turns out I needed to get a lot better before being capable.

First move is hard! More effort than most the 8's and 9's I did this season.

Retro Flash

GB day 2 this year, still couldn't do "the move" on something from nothing. All the other moves feel easy though...

Last Morning in Hueco, great trip, sad to leave!

Thrashed myself on Full Service but couldn't manage to send it in a session. Something to try in the future for sure!

2nd go.

Easy but so fun.

Almost as good as the original.

Ricky O's mandatory old-school eliminate method.

Couple of tries. Soft and sharp but still cool.

Climbers cooler than it looks! Topout is easy but exciting and quality. Felt on the easier side to me.

Soft. Almost blew the top! Somehow kept the foot on for the crux throw.

Crimpy! Hannah got really stoked and sent on a return trip out to East, her hardest boulder!

Stoked I was patient, flashing is stressful! 9/10

8/9

Amazing. Was looking for a pure power boulder and this fit the bill perfectly.

Resistant, fell on See Spot several times. Probably soft, just pumpy.

Barefoot of course!

A 7 year dream remembered.

Awesome problem, awful landing/dab situation.

2 or 3 tries. Tried Karajo a few times, shoulder move felt hard.

Finally got out of the city for some rock climbing, kicking off the last year of my 20's.

Thought Myloade would go before this one, turned out the other way around. Close on Myloade as well, ran out of skin and energy by the end of the session.

Surreal. 14 sessions over the past two summers, making steady progress but never expecting anything because it always felt so hard. Elated I stuck with it. Colorado Summer of Redemption complete! Now for Hannah's LT100!

Simply Excellent.

Big pinch jug is gone. Went up OG line to new side pull from break and then a couple bumps with the right hand to gain good edge above before moving left to topout. Didn't feel contrived this way and still a fun problem. Probably easier than Beyond Matters for most, in the 7/8 range.

What has roots nobody sees, is taller than trees, up, up, up it goes and yet, never grows?

**NOT A REAL PROBLEM** (Although maybe it should be. Started matched on underclings). Just a big step towards sending a long term project for me. Feeling cute, might delete later. Guessing V10, who knows.

Must improve at figuring out beta before I can send things in a day. Two sessions with a lot of beta video research in between.

Really enjoyed the movement.

Small boulder between the Cube and Swing of Things. Looks terrible, but surprisingly fun movement.

Can't even believe it, the saga is complete! First tried summer 2014, thought I was close then after a couple of sessions but in reality was not good enough. Summer 2018 I knew I was capable from the first session but five sessions later and countless attempts climbing through 'the crux' only to fail on the easier moves just before the slab and I walked away empty handed. Summer 2019, one half hearted session when I was dead tired yielded little encouragement. Second session I climbed up to the lip encounter on my first attempt but foot dabbed the tree on the little throw up and left. Managed to send next try despite not remembering the beta to get onto the slab and doing some sketchy improvisation! This was probably my biggest mental battle in climbing to date, knowing I was strong enough and coming agonizingly close so many times but in the end it was all about mental control.

High start with good left hand side pull. Tried forever last week to go directly up the face using the bad right hand pinches to no avail. Came back and did it the normal beta going out to the arete immediately. Honestly hated it that way. I wish you had to use those rad pinches, it would be harder and 100x better. Oh well, climbed one of the best boulders of my life an hour later.

Left exit, started matched on crimp under roof.

Straight out the prow, started matched on crimp under roof. Core intensive to keep feet from cutting.

V7/8, finished up and left.

Great boulder, bad hang.

V8/9, good beta for the lip encounter felt crucial.

couple of tries, climbs better than it looks!

v8? v9?

V9/10. The sendless summer continues on the actual projects...

Not sure if I started in the right place first time I did it, too bad the landing is so awkward at the start because the movement is fun

The destroyer of my knee, the epic creator. Finally went back and did it 4 years after getting down from Chaos using only one of my legs because of this thing.

Adds a little fatigue to Potato Chip but not too bad. Both lines would be 5 stars if it wasn't for all the dab avoidance.

Favorite warmup, do it every time

Started matched on the sidepull and exited out right. Probably 7 or 8.

great little power problem

copilot

cool rock, took me a bit to figure out

Thought Hannah could work this one for a few days but instead she did it in a quick session... what's next?

Just exciting enough

Started matched on the block pinch

Delicate up top

Started as low as possible, not a fan

My other big goal for this season! Went down perfectly today similar to Freak, rehearsed in 3 sections top down then sent first try of the day from the start. Ended up going left hand first for the opening move. A bit easier than Pagan Poetry for me but felt full value with the thin, high topout! Both challenged me more than any 10's I've done in Joe's. 4 sessions this year.

Out of nowhere! Just messing around on the intro moves while Hannah worked 'Jordan' ended up sticking the Jordan hold from the ground and keeping it together through the crux of Jordan. Double double day!

Did it from the original start on two thin crimps. Definitely a step up in difficulty from the higher start but detracts from the quality of the line. Did the later crux with a new method for me which was fun (still finishing right, not original left). The higher start and topping out right seems to be the least contrived way to do this problem regardless of grade... much drama.

Really fun start of Lactation Station to unpleasant traverse to fun V6. Bizarre but worth doing.

3 tries, really cool! Hannah did it on the quick too! 7/8?

So thin but the movement is great, middle finger kept slipping off the right hand in the crux but stuck the left gaston without it on the right hold anyways, odd sensation. Two short sessions, sent once early in the session but dabbed spotter's arm grabbing the jug lip so had to do it twice... Mid-April bouldering is always good to me!

2 tries, tweaky on the fingers but would be a lot harder if you couldnt get any digits in that slot

tricky but really fun once you figure it out

Super stoked! One of my main goals for this season in Joe's! 3 sessions this year and 1 last year.

2 tries

FFG

How have I never tried this? Have I tried this? Second try after misreading the topout first go.

Wow so cool, never tried in the past because it seemed like it wouldn't suit my strengths and I was probably right. Managed to figure it out and barely squeak out a send in the same day, much screaming.

crimpy v5!

climbs really nicely except for boulder in landing

Went down perfectly, did the end sequence once, then did from the crux to the end once then sent it from the start, very pleased.

super fun! big crew and almost everyone sent, good times! Went surprisingly quick

Good to be back in Joes!

V5/6 for me. Probably a sliding scale from V0 if you should play in the NBA to double digit if you're tiny.

This place is cool!

Amazing! Horizontal dyno to feet first climbing out the roof, very cool.

Climbed this while working the bottom for Kill Onsite. Fun movement and maybe a bit soft for V8 but they used to call it V11 so the grade is all over the place.

3 or 4 tries. Climbs a lot better than it looks

Cool sloper compression climbing, nice change from throwing myself at Evilution day after day.

Funky but really cool!

A lot better than I expected! Did the sit as well.

Always been intimidated but it wasn't so bad

Tough!

Really enjoyed this one! Had a lot of trouble figuring out how to keep the toe hook even though its bomber. Good to work on weaknesses.

Fun ring locks and a spicy position!

One of the coolest holds around. Pinch straight out of desert sandstone.

Could barely see anything after the sun set on the ice caves

Not that inspiring but climbs really well and great for building power!

Actually took an hour of attempts...

Crimpyyyy but the movement is good!

Figured out how to pinch that weird crux hold!

Crawled through the hole and into a mud bath before I knew what was happening!

Sweet zone! Fun checking out Taylor and Jess's local haunts. Did some other cool problems including a V7 crack but don't know the names

Fantastic pocket slab climbing!

Cool holds!

Unexpected! Fun Climbing with the Canadian crew, everyone took it down quickly!

so goddamn reachy!

Committing up top! Also one of the prettiest boulders around. Strong enough this year to get up there a couple times before going for the throw, a luxury I didn't have in the past. Repeated Face in the Crowd, Grimace and Redhouse today as well with Hannah sending the two V7's!

Crack Climbing!

Got some beta for the topout and redeemed myself after copping out up high years ago. First try this trip.

A long time coming this one. Figured out some tricky toe hook beta for the big bump move off the sloper. Never could figure out how to do it as a blind throw.

matched the two pockets instead of pinching them both with the right and went with the right hand to the lip, felt fairly easy that way especially compared to the dyno which I couldn't do at all

the dream before the nightmare

really fun moves, slopers felt slippery in the heat

2 tries, really cool tufa

More insecure than I was expecting, glad Max encouraged me to try it! Only new thing I did my last three days, just worked on Pendragon otherwise

So tired, last climb of the day. Had a blast once I found the crew and got involved in all the antics. 4th of july 100 v points day party! Whiskey, donuts, crutch dabs, heckling, everyone crushing, crazy dyno FA's and an Arch Valley pad party to cap off the night. Great times!

Found the Crew!

Time for a much needed break

fun jump

Hard!!

Beating the shit out of myself, tried the dyno probably 20 times in the sun before trying a right heel hook lock off that I did second try. Low point in the 100 pt day

pretty tough too, cool name

way good

I did a dyno!!

2 laps for fun, kinda hard at first

Incredible! Everything I look for in a boulder problem! Almost blew the top by grabbing a sloper instead of the big flat edge unintentionally, scary! 3 tries in total

Climbs like a route, topped out to the right, interested in the straight up version though. 3 tries

Sunset session, felt so hard at the end of a long day.

Solo mission, kinda scary with one pad. Only fell once by letting go of the crimp on the face and swinging back under the arch to land standing back on the slab grabbing the undercling... spooky.

wish it topped out

Prettty sweet and pretty sweaty in the heat. 3 tries.

Arvo session

Love it!

Big ol move!

3 tries, tweaky on the knee

Crimpin...