Juho Risku

Couple hard moves, rest easier.

On-sight to the extent that we ended up to a wrong crack (so really not), the topo says one needs big cams for the final pitch, which apparently is not true ... so we ended up climbing the off width right from what we were supposed to.

Really nice climbing, couple of harder moves, but rest easy.

Rather easy for the grade.

Couple of cruxes, mostly easy.

Slipped in one place on 2nd pitch, rest clean.

Took couple of pitches from codfather, to make it more straightforward / tougher climbing.

Just the way I like it.

Slipery rock, wasn't even close to clean asscent. Aided quite a bit on the crux. The surroundings are nice. It's hard for it's grade.

Very good clean trad route. Most of the anchors bolted, other vice pretty clean. Shares some of the stands with Zeppelin. Really nice views.

Just a few 6C moves, rest pretty continous 6B/6A. Nice and fun climbing.

Third pitch had to rest and try again... and didn't climb clean the 6C+ section as I was coming second and it was a hell of a mess of all sorts of cord.

Pretty nice climb, with easy approach and walk off, though we first climbed a wrong route well left from the one we were supposed to.

A very good route, asked for sport, got also some trad with long distance between protection. First pitch super difficult, even did fall on trad piece there - protect early.

The first 6B slab was really difficult, rest more bearable.

Layback dihedral in the 3rd last pitch was the crux. Pretty sustained and nice climbing.

Had to pull the draw on the roof due to mis red route.

Had to pull on draw heavily on crux, so not a clean send at all.

First pitch is not bolted - solo, easy, but solo, last two or three pitches something else than in topo. Clean ascent except on third VII pitch had to pull from quickdraw twice.

Pretty much as topo said, pretty cool climbing despite the traverses. The stretch on first pitch was extremely wide + had to grab the cord to get off from the stretch.

First pitch didn't go on the first try, second clean. Had to pull from the draw couple of times also further in the route.

One of the best sports climbs I've ever climbed. Very highly recommended. 8h from hut to hut. The grade depends on topo, Swiss Palasir topo says it's mostly 6A+ but with 2-3 moves of 6B, whereas most other topos say 6A, but one pitch of 6A+. I'm leaning more towards the opinion of the Swiss Palasir topo.

Tipuin yhdesti piissiin neljännellä KP:llä ja samassa yhteydessä tuli vähän pideltyä piissistä. Ko. muuvi niin vaikee, et ei pystynyt tekeen toisellakaan yrkällä. Muuten puhdas suoritus.

More difficult than Prestens West Pilaren Direct (6B in 27Crags)

Good and fairly straight forward, a bit easy even except the curx moves that were really delicate.

In my opinion a bit harder than Punta Bananas for instance, fairly powerfull begining, pleasant climbing.

The first moves are the most difficult part and the most dangerous ones, one should have the first two bolts pre-clipped, easy to do from Supersic, which is a good warm up route.

Pretty straightforward.

On my guide book the grade is 6B+ ... and it somehow felt really really easy. Almost too easy, like gym climbing.

Generally about the grade promised, but the difficult cruxes on start of 6A+ and the bulge on 6B were very difficult... felt more like 6C, of course heavy trad set affected a bit. Didn't find the last stand - had to do a bit of running belay there.

Rest day activity for us, took about 4,5 hours, including the few hundred meters walk to the top of the mountain and decent.

Wasn't a clean send. First pitch with approach shoes, second pitch was the crux, had to try several different approaches, while the moves aren't very heavy they're very difficult to find on sight - 6B might be also adequate grade of those few moves, then a good send, final pitch was marvelous.

Nice pretty sustained climb.

Wasn't entirely clean send, but to the top in any case, particularly the fifth 6B+ pitch required a few rests + pulling from a quick draw. I'd say that the on the second pitch (or actually our first because we soloed to the first stand) between the 2nd and 3rd bolt was difficult, then fairly easy both the 6B and 6A pitches. The final pitches shared with Los Miserables were magnificient.

One of the best ones around, two good sustained 6a+ pitches of climbing in stunning surroundings. Walk off from the top was a bit scary, maybe rappel down would have been preferred way to do it.

Took a fall on last pitch + pulled couple of times from the quickdraw. Definitely more difficult than nearby Pantarei, while the difficulties are perhaps slightly shorter, but some of them are either a bit delicate or require fairly long and powerful moves.

Pulled from a quickdraw twice

Some of the hardest grade III pitches I've found so far, almost couldn't do them free (just barely did)... felt much more like grade 6A+ or so. Climbed some easier 6B routes than this... wonder if we were on the right route?-)

Pulled from quickdraw twice, Jaska led the grade VII pitch.

Enjoyed.

Liked it quite a bit. Specially the powerful moves in the dihedral & chimney a bit later

Pulled from quickdraw once

Jännä alotus, eka piissi ehkä kymmeneen metriin ja sit lopun siltailuosuus omasta mielestä aika napakka. Hieno.

Kokkeiltiin liidiäki, ei menny vielä, mut ylkässä meni eka kertaa puhtaasti... on se greidilleen aika jyrkkä.

Very easy start, ending quite hard for the grade.

Maybe even 6b?

Softish grade.

A few moves of 6A... I think.

Brilliant, has a few sections that are a bit hard for its grade. Excellent moves, good rock, very sustained and varied climb.

Second pitch is a nice one, though there's a section of a few very marginal holds ... would say that the hardest move is even harder than 6a+, but there's only 3-5 of them.

Nice and easy way to get to know to Pared Negra and Spanish rock.

Long but magnificient route

Pulled from a quick draw couple of times. The 6B face felt easy, so not there, but one of the 6a+ points.

Had our ropes jamed, so had to prusik up the first pitch.

Wasn't fully free, pulled from quick draw a few times. Felt it was pretty difficult.

...well, might be 6a as well, but it felt really, really easy. Couple of spots were a bit unclear in terms of moves at first, but once figured out easy, light climb. Enjoyable stil..

Didn't like the start, but after the first ledge really enjoyable climb.

Liked the ending, was a bit wet, there's pretty obvious crux.

Fairly straight forward climb, holds are pretty obvious, need a bit power.

The camino in the end was pretty tough.

Mostly 5+, as the Esculapio fairly sustained one. According to topo several VI- sections, I would grade them slightly higher... it also requires a bit more gear than Esculapio + ended into couple of long runouts. The VI'ish sections are fairly short with one exception (the last), where I ended up into pretty difficult runout. Some of the V+ sections might have, in my opinion, earned VI- grade. Furhtermore the route is not as easy to read as Esculapio.

Easiest of the three fully bolted sport routes, I've climbed on this wall.

Beatyfull and varied climb, highly recommended. Very sustained 5+ and a few more difficult sections. In my opinion some of the 5+ places could have VI or VI- ... whereas the marked VI was easier than I thought. As topo indicated the VI sections are short.

Did the FB vatiant - I think there's mistake in topo book, felt definitely much more difficult than any other sections of 5C in Teresa, might be even 6a+ ...feelings were similar on some slabs in Val Di Mello.

Great long route.

Was dripping wet when climbed the hardest sections, pretty delicate a wet 5c a bit out of my comfort zone.

Couple of more difficult sections, othervice easy.

Straightforward, plenty of fixed protection.

Straight forward though couple of a bit harder moves.

Harder than the other 6a+ I tried on the area.

Easy, straight forward... one could say fully bolted, i.e. sport route.

Went on placing protection on top-rope, think it's soon doable as traditional lead as well.

A lot more loose rock than topo said, some literally evaporated under my fingers while climbing.

Challenging chimney + another one equally challenging one

A great route, 14 pitches. Couple of challenging places: the crux pitch (3rd), couple of traverses with plenty of rope drag + a very exposed traverse.

Went surprisingly easily at least on top rope. Not however yet on my grade for traditional climbing... perhaps next summer?

Pretty hard one for its grade, required plenty of sustained power, hardest 5+ for me so far ... wasn't exactly "clean" climb, i.e. some resting etc. but went all the way up in any case.

Second try took it up surprisingly easily.

Perhaps such a big grade opinion difference, because it was wet weather and I had a huge backpack. Only one difficult move though, rest easy.

Easy Start, some harder Stuff further

Had a bit slipery start.

Easy... perhaps -5 or 4+, definitely not full 5.

Very easy except the going over the roof, where the hardest move I think was more like 5+. Route opinion difference might be partly because it was a bit slippery when I were there.

Pretty dirty and fairly slipery

Last few moves a bit harder than others, others just "running up".

There's section of 4-6 meters that is difficult to place protection. Hardest move perhaps 5-, at least I've seen easier 4+ routes and some equally difficult 5- routes.

Was very slipery and did not get pieces in until half way up - if you do it, take a few larger cams with you.

There's two ways to solve the crux. I've managed only one. :-) It requires very precise sequence, right hand on leftmost pocket on right and left hand to the side pull + left foot as far left as you can find a hold.

Easy, and seems to stay dry (dry up) better than the others.

Short and easy route

Easy route, there was signs of a hawk nest.

Nice and easy route with good views, were seconding together with my 9 years old son --> Good for starting