Sør Øst
COMMENTS
Aino Kuokka8 years ago
The route is fully bolted, the bolts are in excellent condition and there are lots of them. Bring 15-16 quickdraws. Bottom belay station is pretty high up, quite far from the tree line but the slope isn't too steep so just walk up to it. At the top walk left until you find two piles of stones, there's a rappelling station underneath there and you can get down in two raps.
Henning Mella8 years ago
Two man team, used 4 hours. The route is interesting and different than a lot of other multi pitches I have done. The three first pitches are pure slab. Slab slab slab. We were discussing wich one we thought was the trickiest one, and we agreed on pitch three. The three last pitches gives you more vertical climbing. If you are not used to slab, then it might feel hard for the grade. If you are confident on slab, it might feel soft for the grade. Overall a nice route that is more technical demanding than physical. The bolts are as good as new and in great conditions. It is short distance between each bolt. And it is easy to bail from the route since it´s bolts the hole way.
Lars Joramo8 years ago
Beautiful route! Could add that we encountered loose blocks, one in the middle of pitch 5, and one in the end of pitch 6. Agree that the hardest moves were in pitch 3, but I think that the second pitch was most pumpy for the calves:)

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Den svarte stripa, 6c
P1=6+(35m), P2=7-, P3=7-, P4=6, P5=6-. Possible to link and club P4&P5 as one long pitch.
Added by Erik Neergaard
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Ascents from public tick lists

Erik Neergaard
2013-09-04
On-sight
Aino Kuokka
2016-05-06
Red point
Led pitch 1, started to lead pitch 3 but slipped at 2nd bolt and ended up going back to the belay station and seconding the rest of the pitches. Climbed with Kalle+Iiro. Mentally draining, especially the first 3 slab pitches - but beautiful! 6 hours to the top.
Iiro Vidberg
2016-05-06
On-sight
Seconded first pitch, led others. 3-person team, ~6 hours from start to stop.
Kalle Karikoski
Kalle Karikoski
2016-05-06
Top rope
Climbed in tourist mode with Iiro and Aino leading. Quality climbing all the way.
Henning Mella
Henning Mella
2016-07-21
On-sight
6b+
Lead pitch 2, 4 and 6. Two man team, used 4 hours. The route is interesting and different than a lot of other multi pitches I have done. The three first pitches are pure slab. Slab slab slab. We were discussing wich one we thought was the trickiest one, and we agreed on pitch three. The three last pitches gives you more vertical climbing. If you are not used to slab, then it might feel hard for the grade. If you are confident on slab, it might feel soft for the grade. Overall a nice route that is more technical demanding than physical. The bolts are as good as new and in great conditions. It is short distance between each bolt. And it is easy to bail from the route since it´s bolts the hole way.
Lars Joramo
2016-07-31
On-sight
6b+

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