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Naturlig avvenning, 6b+
2 pitches. Can rappel the route.
Added by
Keith Bennett
Grade opinions
Ascents from public tick lists
Steinar Christensen
2023-06-11
Red point
6a+
I really like this route! I think it is a good introduction to the hard slab climbing on Andersnatten. There was very little information about it anywhere, so I decided to write a little about it here.
The first pitch starts with around 3-5 meters on a steep/vertical section, before it turns into a long slab all the way to the first anchor. All features here are tiny, except for a jug around 30 meters up, but the angle makes it not very hard, still challenging enough though! Beware that the first pitch is at times very run out, but only in the easier sections. Here you also get to experience the green lichen, which you actually can smear on. I think the pitch was at least 40 meters, so I thing one should bring an 80 meter rope if you rappell this on a single rope. The route can be topped out.
The second pitch I found more daunting, steeper, more challenging and more fun! It is also a lot better bolted than the first pitch! Here you get to experience the black lichen which was not so smearable. Some crimps, small footholds, a small dihedral, and it ends with a fun little boulder problem.
I found it quite similar to "Den svarte stripa", but a bit easier. Although only two pitches, a very fun climb!