Les Marches du Temps

Sunny day, good day. Team free ascent :) Rappelled down the route, and started where the french topo suggested (skipping the two first pitches that were in the Rockfax topo). 1) 6b+, secondo. Inner corner, good rock for left foot, shittier rock for right foot, wet crack for the hands. Classic. 2) 6c+, flash. Quite difficult and technical, awkward feet and pumpy. 3) 6c, OS. Short and sratightforward middleaction. 4) 7a, OS. Awesome stuff, overhanging pocket action. On the crux section there was almost too many bolts. On the otherside its easy to aid if you want. 5) 6c+, OS. Easier than previous, good rock. 6) 7a, OS. Easier than the other 7a and shorter. Tiny crimps. 7) 6c A0. Anticlimatic aid pitch. But what can you do if the gods have cursed the wall with blankness and climbers with empty hands. There´s an 8a variation to the left if you want to skip the aiding. You need to do some 6c climbing moves as well. 8) 6b+, secondo. Fairly stiff, technical climbing on good rock. 9) 6a+, secondo. Verdon style juglust on good rock.

Bra avslut på Verdon veckan med Jonas W och Julia.

Long day finishing up in sunset. Led/followed everything clean except a hang on p5 and on all bolts on p7. Never got back in free climbing mood after aiding it. Tired on a magnificent route.

Magnifica! A few hangs in the two hardest pitches, felt tired. With Jocke S.