Beeman, 8c+
Added by
Tomasz Ratajczak
Grade opinions
Ascents from public tick lists
Tobias Karlsson
FIRST ASCENT
2024-09-25
Red point
Old project that was bolted in 2007 by Jens Larsen, I added an anchor on the ledge which felt like the most natural ending and tried it briefly in 2022. Tried it a lot during the autumn 2023 since it was a great challenge without hard right hand crimps during my year of pulley surgery reconstruction. Managed to climb it to the top during the first crisp autumn days in 2024. The SBH intro is not hard except for the tricky first small roof, but still it drains more energy than you expect due to the steepness. From the anchor of SBH a short boulder which requires shoulders of steel with my beta. Then a brief rest before the meat of the route begins with a sustained powerful boulder with technical body positioning where each move does not seem too bad at first but still managed to be big challange to link from the ground. One of the coolest sequences I have done where you need to use many tools from the toolbox. Outro mantle problem onto the ledge which is much easier but fallable once the pump starts to hit you. I loved projecting it. Regarding the difficulty I am very uncertain. I spent much more time on it than on Captain Caveman, and I think the style suits me well on both. On the other hand many sessions were spent before finding the beta that was used in the end and many short sessions after work in non-ideal conditions and coming back from injury. I have also not tried it with anyone else. I am a decent jammer but not expert level and there are possibly some expert level jams that could change how it is climbed.The conditions are also a bit tricky since the holds in the crux are always mostly dry, but almost always humid. Very happy to have opened up another great difficult line in the cave :)