R2D2 at Hakunila boulder, Hakunila

COMMENTS

What exactly is the difference between R2D2 and #21?
R2D2 starts lower and eliminates everything on the right face? I think the edge of the roof is also forbidden?
That is, only the good holds on the negative part of the edge and the crimps and the right edge at the slab part. Did I get it right?

Tomi Lindroos • 12 years ago

Sanon suomeks niin ei viesti huku käännöksiin. Mun mielestä se on vähintään 6A+ aivan miten tahansa sen tuosta kohdasta kiipeetkään. Seisomalähtö + kaikki otteet sekä feissillä että hänkillä että dynokahvassa ja se on silti 6A+. Oon topannut sen aika monella tavalla aika monesta kohdasta ja kaikista helpoimmalle versiolle minkä lopulta keksi voisin ehkä antaa greidiksi 6A+. Hieno linja se kumminkin on. Tuo #21 voisi sit olla vaikka sitstart samaan linjaan? Greidi olisi melkein kohdillaan.

Tuomas Pöysti • 12 years ago

Okei, ekalla kotimaisella. Olen yrittänyt sitä istumalähtönä: kahdella muuvilla kahvaan, siitä eteenpäin erilaisilla tyyleillä. Naboon olen kiivennyt, ja jos kahvasta menee manttelilla lippaan, ei tämä juuri siitä poikkea. Siksi ajattelin, ettei lippa kuuluisi linjaan. #21 on mun mielestä helpompi eikä ala yhtään alempaa?

Arto Järvinen • 9 years ago

It is a rather ugly eliminate, I'm afraid. The essential thing is that hands stay in the close proximity to the arete at all times and the dyno jug on the right is not used for either hands or feet. As Tuomas already said, the edge of the roof is forbidden. The way I climbed it in around 2002 (and named it) was a sitstart and the rather painful crimps exactly on the arete. The body can, of course, be shifted to the right face at about halfway point as long as you don't use the dyno jug. So the way Tuomas described is about right, I guess.

Tomi Lindroos • 7 years ago

I guess most confusion is because the old topo did not have Naboo or Route #21. Oh, btw, I renamed the route #21 to C-3PO. Now the situation is quite weird as this R2D2 has same start and less holds than either Naboo or C-3PO which both have higher grades. Arto's description is practically the same than current Naboo, but harder. But ok, I updated the route info to match the original route. Tried to shorten what Arto said and hopefully managed to make it both readable and understandable.

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