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El Cavalliero, 6a
(translated from routebook)
3 pitches, From sharp block up towards the left following a crack up to the the bottom of the dieder. Follow the dieder to the roof overhang and traverse to the right around corner and upp gully to anchor point on slab. Up to the right (loose) opp gully. Hard to find a placement before traverse to the left underneath roof and around corner to anchor point. Alternatively you can climb more to the left before the fully and straight up to the roof, and use the bolts from the route Rettop (loose and dirty mountain but substantial ropedrag is avoided). From anchor point, out on the slab to the right around the edge, then shoot for the top (5). Varied and nice climbing, old classic. Editors note: quite spicy
Added by
Gard Hillestad
Grade opinions
Ascents from public tick lists
Helge Øystein Maakestad
1985-09-21
On-sight
5+
Eivind Hanche-Olsen
2018-08-01
On-sight
5+
Hebbe Wiksén
2020-05-21
On-sight