Urbergets väg till solens strålar, 7c
Added by Tomasz Ratajczak
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Ascents from public tick lists

Tobias Karlsson
FIRST ASCENT
2024-09-21
Red point
If you are up for an adventure! Sustained climbing all the way with many small boulders separated by good rests but the length of the climb still drains you. A surprisingly steep final part with 40 meters of air below your feet and more pumpy than anticipated even if the holds are all ok. The rock quality is not great. Spent many hours cleaning it, focusing on doing my best to remove all possibilities of dangerous loose rock, which I still of course can't guarantee, so the belayer should pay attention and wear a helmet. There are still many crusty patches where you might place your foot and feel it crumble under your sticky rubber and some handholds that is still a bit dirty/sandy. But I think the foundation of the rock is good and solid so when/if it sees some traffic I think it will improve. Some bolt placements also had to be placed in the most solid rock, and thus not necessarily in the optimal clipping positions. Good to use some extended quickdraws, especially below the first small roof. I think I used 22 quickdraws and a 100 m rope, with a shorter rope you can rethread in the first anchor.