James bong at James Bong, Magic Wood

COMMENTS

I'd like to take a moment to address something that has been bothering me: the perception that this problem is "soft." I have yet to come across a single video where someone starts from the boulder's lowest point. Most climbers begin with their right hand on the band, clearly positioned ABOVE the marked arrow. Personally, I believe that the true start should involve holds below the arrow. Especially since there is a "start" hold,that is marked with a dot.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CtY2Bd4gDwi/

Romain Bordier • 6 months ago

@Kathrin Neumann I hate to downplay anyone's accomplishment so I will not question your perception of the grade of this climb.

My own personal feeling (not questioning yours or anyone else's) is that after my friend gave me the easiest beta for this, the problem got significantly easier. The easy beta involves twisting your toehook from pointing updward to pointing downward (or at least straight) - the dynamic move becomes then quasi-static and easy to stick.

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