Drømmen om Lofoten, 5+
The Great Roof!. Climb what you want up to the bottom right corner of the route. Aid (C1) or free climb (N6-) up the start of the Codfather roof pitch before heading out across left in a crack through the great roof (A2). Pull through the center of the roof onto the upper face (WILD POSITION) and transition into free climbing slabs at N5+ with some cams and skyhooks for protection (exciting) while you trend right towards the StorHylla belay on the vestpillaren driect (70m pitch). FA. Max Miner and Matti Kaivaja
Added by
Matti Kaivaja
Grade opinions
Beta
lot of small cams (black/blue aliens) and it could probably go cleanly. Bring sky hooks for the end traverse. Amazing position on a spectacular wall. Bivy spot below the roof is scenic but not so spacious for a ledge.
Ascents from public tick lists
Matti Kaivaja
FIRST ASCENT
2020-07-17
On-sight
Absolutely spectacular position and a joy to share the first ascent with Max Miner. Ending traverse was easy but very exciting on sky hooks. Highly recommended! Many years staring up at the great roof wondering why it hasn't been done before. Go get it!