Vestpillaren, 6b
This was the original line on the face - an audacious undertaking envisioned and completed by Arild Meyer and Bynjar Tollefsen in the summer of 1978. The first ascent took 14 hours. These days it sees a lot less action than Vestpillaren Direct. Start up and right of the foot of the wall in the steep gully filled with grass and loose blocks. Climb this for 55m (either the grassy buttress or water-washed groove on the right - a rope is advisable). Belay where the angle eases. FA. Aril Meyer and Brynjar Tollefsen 10.6.1978 (14 hours). The team carried their courage in rucksack - pitons of all sizes, bongs and skyhooks. Meyer and Tollefsen swung leads, but high on the face, "we became very wet and cold." The upper section was climbed during a heavy rainstorm. "Shall we go down now?", asked Brynjar when the rain began. "Absolutely not!", replied Arild, typically determined to push on no matter what, and the pair succeeded. FFA. Hans Christian Doseth, Håvard Nesheim (using the Original avslutning) 6.1979.
Added by
Stefan Lindström
Grade opinions
Beta
Wedging fingers all the way. Hop from pocket to pocket.
Ascents from public tick lists
Johan Hvenmark
1994-07-20
On-sight
Erik Nordfeldt
2003-07-04
On-sight
Toni Rasse Ruokonen
2003-08-24
On-sight
Pertteli Muurla
2005-07-07
On-sight