Fessura della Disperazione, 6b+
6b+ (oblig. 6a+)/R2(R4)/II/90m
info: it's really useful to carry 2 BD Camelots No. 6 ;)
Added by
Matthias Lang
Grade opinions
Ascents from public tick lists
Matthias Lang
2011-04-26
On-sight
3 pitches, 90m, 6b+
THE eyecatcher on "Sergent-Wall", 3 pitches of desperately off-width climbing on a huge left-winding crack ;)
...climbed it together with Strong-Tom, on-sighted all the pitches & led no. 1 & no. 3.
Pitch 1 is a good warm-up with a no-hand-position in the middle. Pitch 2 starting with a though vertical corner, followed by traversing the left-winding off-width. At pitch 3 you climb up vertical again and then squeeze inside the crack when it starts again to go left to the abseil-platform.
Viktor Kamb
2013-07-25
Flash
The guide says 6a+but this is the hardest crack I've done. Led all pitches after Henrik backed off the first pitch. 2nd pitch was extremely sustained and I had sore things for 2 days. Took one hand on the flare on the 3rd pitch which ended with a 10m unprotected tunnel-squeeze. Mental! Unique and brutal route!
Joonas Rautakoski
2015-09-09
On-sight
Valley classic, 3 pitch offwidht testpiece. Really good and memorable route!
Corentin Le Masne De Chermont
2023-09-30
On-sight
