Bubba Lowtep, 8A
Added by Aaron Schneider
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Aaron Schneider
2020-04-15
Red point
I was highly skeptical of this one when Marley first told me about it. Certainly not the obvious start to Hotep, and am not a fan of pockets in general. Tried the moves for about 1.5 hours a month or so ago on a rainy day after failing on the crux move of Abu. Enjoyed the moves more than expected. The first move is ass-draggy, but the 2nd and transition into the original is awesomely powerful and body tension dependent -- satisfying to climb. Beautiful snow the night before peaked our interest in roofs (although the snow melted and lots was probably climbable). Another beautiful day under this cave. Lisa with a quick send of Ruth's roof, left me to this beast. Had a semi-punt on the iron cross move, then couldn't make it back there. The 1st move was low percentage until by accident my right foot pressed an edge underneath. Once I realized this right foot beta the 1st move became WAY easier and gave me hope. I still had no real expectations of sending on the last hour of the trip, but rested for one last go (had to leave at 6p) and somehow scraped my way to the end. Almost dropped the exit after the iron cross. Feels similar but maybe one notch easier than the Ark, more overall power but less fingery. 11.1 perhaps? 1 grade harder than original. This trip was my most productive ever. The stars seemed to have aligned for once, excellent conditions at the New (although still lots of rain/snow but drying quickly) with cool temps for April, healthy skin, healthy fingers, at the right point in my un-regimented training cycle. Good strategy still let me finish up climbs despite several punts. This fall is gonna be LIT.