Lionheart, 6b
6b/~350m/7-8 pitches (4/6a/6b/6a/6a/6b/6a/4) -- abseil: down the route
Added by
Matthias Lang
Grade opinions
Ascents from public tick lists
Matthias Lang
2011-02-24
On-sight
6b+
6b/~350m/7-8 pitches (4/6a/6b/6a/6a/6b/6a/4)
"If you like crack-climbing, do Lionheart!" (some Czech-climbers)
...great line along some crack & corner-systems up the Abu Aina Towers, really sustainted and hard for the grade...
climbed it together with Niki & Peter, onsighted all the pitches & led no. 1, 2 & 3.
In Pitch 1 & 2 (4 & 6a) you climb up a good chimney and you can do them in one pitch.
Pitch 3 (6b/~45m) is a kingline, first you have great finger-locks up a crack in a corner, then climb up chimney (where you can stay until the end of the pitch) and then change to a really exposed arete. I think the best pitch i've ever led.
Pitch 4 (6a) has a slightly overhanging wide crack (camelot no.4) which seemed much harder than 6a for me and then a slab. Pitch 5 (6a) is just an endless corner with perfect jams to get at another chimney at pitch 6 (6b) from where you finallely traverse to the headwall for exposed slab-climbing at pitch 7 (6a) and an easy last pitch (4) to gain the top of the Abu-Aina-Towers...
Just an awesome route!!!