Dan Rush

Not a trivial climb at all. I second Schlooder's suggestion. Started on the lowest usable right sloper and the low left sharp pocket. Right heel hook to move right hand into the shallow crimpy pocket up high to the triple pockets at the lip. Will be harder for shorter folks.

3rd go. Overshot the hold over the lip a few times.

Cool Climb, slopey holds leading into a definite crux of two pretty bad crimps or a long lock off to a right facing crimp seam that finishes off with a very casual topout compared to the rest of the lines on this face. Cool Rock.

Probably the king line on the boulder. Excellent sequence. Super cool holds.

Two hard moves into the Very high quality Seven Seas. I B.S.ed the sit start down to one big move. Fun Day with Cece and company.

Definitely V9 if you have a shorter ape index so felt easier to me solely because of that. Excellent climbing for being big moves on ok holds. Very clean line! Another Schlooder classic FA! A welcomed top after the carnage on Bitter Pill.#Foxfit

2nd go. Nice Climb, got through the right variation exit but ran out of gas pulling through the cross at the lip.

Committing move to the mega jug for the topout.

Super fun, scary for someone breaking into the grade range. Banana Juice does not look as fun as I was hoping with the v-slot hold.

Blew the flash going left 1st instead of just following my instincts. Goal was to send bloodline and this in the same day, dang 6pm curfew.

3 stars specifically for the climbing itself, the approach is heanous! The down climb is nonexistent. Bring a rope to lower in your pads. Much easier and quicker. Wow, what unique climbing and a stunning line. Definitely right and left variations though the left start looks most obvious and was what I did.

Punishingly sharp crimps. Managed to keep my feet on for the whole way.. Getting my left foot jacked up to the crimp for the deadpoint move to the left crimp was hard. Might be easier for some going to the undercling on Alma, felt much higher percentage but keeping the feet on was harder as well as the wild move to the finish jug.

definitely worth branching out to run up. Fun line

Excellent holds

Fun climb but maybe not as a warmup. Rodney, Louie, Dave, SW, Boots and I had a lot of fun out here.

Clean line, super duper movement! Dave Linz and I with the 1, 2 flash. Wanted Full Monty so bad but the sun was just roasting the holds in the 70 degree temps.

Awesome climbing. 1, 2 flash with Dave Linz leading off and I at the rear. Great company today: Boots, Sara Linz, Rodney, and Louie as our guide. Very flashable as the ascent column proves.

Very polished and a hold is broken. a little awkward. Still a decent climb.

soft 2nd go.

Love this route, Slaps, Heel hooks. All the good things!

Slightly terrifying but thanks to Aaron's determination for getting my confidence up. Would be 3 star but the rock is so brittle everywhere but the hand holds on the roof portion. Loose rock blinded the spotters. This will definitely be evolving as time passes. Aaron and I with the 1,2 punch send. 5-Star movement! Thanks Alvie for the v10 spotting.

Wow, this place is awesome. Thanks Ed for the spot. Blew the top out 1st go.

Oh 'no tiempo mos' is so fitting as I had 'no more time' or energy to get to the top, made it to the last left hand slap move twice. Fuck me! Ran up this rig to leave on a high note. Dropped off at the top-out as was not wanting to do the down climb so late so I have to give myself V4 for my personal grade but leave at 5 to uphold the cocensus.

Excellent. Also in the darkness and last climb of the night. Full meltdown mode as I blew the flash and soft 2nd go attempts. Finally pulled it off, but it was uglier than looking into the pit toilets.

Also low and right. Low and Left is ''Chesticals'' which is V9. Power couple send. I with the sit and Wifey with the stand. Her send made the Schneider Productions video compiling. Want Channel Incision!

3rd go. Blasted off the slopers during warm up circuit. Really good climb.

One of my top 3 cruiser boulders.

Beta run for Michelle. Heel kicked my shin on the flash go.

Fun Dyno. Got psyched for it while watching ''Hot Guy Soup'' video. Took a bunch of tries to stick.

3rd try from start. Dabbled with crux move a few tries before trying from start. Night session send! Great company. Thanks Tim and Justin for taking me out!

Finally. 2nd weekend of the season 6th try. Last dyno just kept falling short every time. Might be the first problem I really want to get dialed as it put me through the wringer. So glad to finally tick!

2nd go. Foolishly blew a flash by opting to use other guys bad beta instead of going with what looked right. Lesson for next time.

Really Great climb. Didn't use any heel hooks or foot cams and felt really good and flowed well.

Warming up is increasingly providing the highlights of the day.

4th go. Climbing with Tim. Bloodiest my fingers have ever been climbing, between splits and knuckle busters from blasting off things earlier in the day. Why I ever waited so long to get on this thing?

Really unique and cool pinch. 3rd go. Noonish. Calm, 42 deg. f, cloudy, very crowded, climbed with Michelle Ryan and Kasey. Nasty dry fire off 1st pinch had to tape pinkie.

Not too Scary. Rode the left rail to easy topout. Good to feel so thrashed that V3 is a challenge. Last climb of our 2017 trip to Bishop and Joes! See ya next time, bye.

2nd go, temps were mid 20's,around noon, very cold, no sunlight, Chris and Yelena baby Eli and their hound Hank in company. Not the best for a 1st climb warm-up, but we were anxious to get the hell out of the cold.

Temps around 40 deg f. afternoon, calm, whole crew worked it and everyone loved it. Find the "secret pocket" at the topout. Grade holds true for tall jumper beta and short girl beta.

Fun Climb. Really good warmup route.

Got in on the group action for this one, otherwise might not have tried it. Full value in my opinion. Some key hand and foot holds are starting to polish up making it harder. Pretty cold temps, in full sun, with an English couple, Sam, and Dill-Pickle Head. Great company to climb with!

good

techy

Cool problem. Be confident in your comfort with the ground being far beneath you before you saddle up to this one. Alcohol (the cause of; and solution to all life's problems) can help :)

Super fun. Watch the topout feet, they are eroding a little.

Blew the flash by foolishly following someones bad beta instead of my instincts. Name of the climb fit the theme of the evening:D

So fun, photogenic, a little scare factor. 1st day 1st time at Joe's. More to come.

Cool problem. 3rd or 4th try. Cold. Had fun working it with Jason.

Fun, tall but not intimidating.

2nd go. Blew the flash with a foot pop. I can see it being hard at the top for shorter people.

2nd go. Crimpy. V5 if you climb V10 and have it wired.

This thing was really really fun. 3rd try. Need to leave my Cobra loafers at home from now on. Chalk up your palms. It was pretty cold out, worked on it with a few guys from San Diego and Alex and Shauna from Canada.

Awesome climb! Heed my words when I say it is temperature dependent. Was around 43 degrees F in the evening when the holds felt crisp enough, and just enough daylight glow above the mountains.

"I Feel Free" plays in my head on this, No pad, watch out Honnold.

This one is victim of the downgrade disposal. Who will be first brute to call it V2? Done in the sun, pretty fun, drinking rum, with the ginger Pat send train. Murphvemberfest!

Hard for a 5. Many beta options to choose from. Crimped the two dishes and a high heel hook launching left to the jug sloper. This one taught me to hold according to how a hold FEELS instead of how it LOOKS.

Originally wanted to do Beefcake, but the back dab hazard was intense. Temps were around 75 degrees everywhere. Great cave to escape to when its hot out. On to Shizaam (hopefully)

Cool Problem.

2nd go. Everything about this climb is superb! Sit down start looks really cool too. Climbed in the morning, sun was heating up the holds every minute we were there. Best time is early am or late afternoon.

Figuring out the foot sequence makes a huge difference on this one. Compared to the Hulk, and Pope's Prow, no way this is on the same level.

Actually felt more tedious than the Center V6! Great climb.

2nd go, hoping to get the sit into this one, it looks really cool.

Had to put the purse down to get this one.

2nd go. If the crux were any higher, this one would see about half of the traffic it gets... including thumbs McJerkoff (me). Was happy to have the pads and spotters.

Probably would have flashed if I had not opened my big mouth and said "this one doesn't look hard". Probably not though. Doing a bunch of right arm curls will prep you really well for this one.

Climbed the last trip and will definitely climb it the next one too. It is truly classic.

The crux dominated me 12 years ago, and bloodied three knuckles this time before finally putting it down. No one gets away scott free from the Hulk.

Ooron and Shaun helped me get through mental blockade at the topout. I was the caboose of the Shaun Ooron send train. Thrilling. Super fun climbing at the bottom. Messed up my knee the first time I tried it a few years ago, felt so solid this time. Sweet dyno, sweet drop knee! Now for West 6th Porter! Feels like V10 compared to other 10s and 11's I have been on recently.

Climbes better than it looks. Key left undercling is more like a side pull pinch. Committing last move. Saun sent 2nd go right after.

Sharp crimps, big moves. Dropped off at finish.

Lots of holds, topout demands a little technnique, great problem

Pretty cool problem but often overshadowed by the hoards of classics of the same grade in the area. I think 100 climbers can confirm this ascent so that feels good.

Perfect in every way. What can I say. Dabbled with half assedly over the years and finally decided to give it 3/4 ass effort. Went down second try and wandered why I waited so long.

A looooooong time in the making. Redefined Epicing with this one. Years of trying at the end of the day with no skin because its all the way in the back ended this trip. Tried the first day out and blew standing up at the end because I forgot that the last crimp is not just great. Came back today and cruised it 1st try. Very happy to finally get it clean. Next is the full topout? Naah, onto The Law.

Likely would never have tried it had it not been for the fact that everything else in the park was soaked lol. Fun climbing if you can navigate over the dab slab.

Cool problem. Had to climb it quietly so not to disturb the putters.

Cool Problem. Loved talking about baby chins and hanging with the NC crew.

Cool prob. Problems be downgraded and downgraded. I have never seen condensation like I did today. The rock looked like those decorative rock water fountains you sometimes see in waiting rooms or lobbys in buildings with the water trickling down. I will never complain about damp rock the same way again.

Hardest V5 in the world and oh so painful and not fun. I am sure there is beta that we were missing. Finally forced to learn hand jams. Wonder how many broken legs that death heel hook crack has claimed? Alex and I watched it almost happen to a guy.

Took three sessions to finish. Really like the line and climbs amazing. Has almost everything, powerful big moves, small tick tack moves, nice variety of footwork. Challenging top out. Not a high baller but you arent climbing to avoid any dabbery. Name was chosen by Mark Osbourne.

One move wonder and topout. Cool looking boulder.

Cool sequence. fun movement.

Cool climb, technical. Would be 3 star, if it were not for one reachy move in the middle.

Highball slab on great holds clustered in bunches spaced arm reach apart. Climbing and feel was as amazing as Melon Patch at the Happy Boulders.

Crack climbing... or to a boulderer: double gastons. whatever works. It felt funky to me so it is probably a crack climbers paradise. Oh then the blank mantle with a secret little crimper for those good at finding things.

Blew the flash trying to topout on the wrong side. Aaron walked up and hiked it looking down at me afterward with an expression like, why'd you fall. (Not actually true). Route reading is important kids!

Really cool climb. The angle of the sloper at the lip is just right.

2 hard moves right back to back. specific foot beta for it to work. Tricky.

Cool rolling slopers. Good problem.

Really fun problem Starts on crimp rail and moves out right to the mantle. Projecting the climb that starts low under the roof and comes straight out. FA; Mark Osbourne

All of my weaknesses. Really fun once I figured out how to do it. One of those problems that reminds you there is so much more to climbing than power.

Awesome Climb, FA; Alyssa Hoeper

Cool crux move. Would have called it a dyno, but it will go static. Probably V9 for climbers who do the move static.

Probably would not have attempted if it were not for the support of Ooron. As of this date, it is the crown jewel of the area. Climbs really well. Great stepping stone into the highball arena. All of the hard climbing is low. Great resting jug to gain your composure and easy but headdy exit.

Asthetically maybe not the most appealing, but climbs really well. Everything is there. Reachy out to the lip and tensiony through the crux. The bottom is the most conglomerate rock I have ever seen. My soul hurt for my shoes for having to step on it, though luckily is only at the start foot and does not cheese grade your hands the rest of the way.

Technical with a cool topout feature. Enjoyed the climb.

Beautiful line. Committing last move. It's definitely a crimp ladder but a good one. Unique holds and the moves flow really well. Did someone dig out the start with a shovel?

Fun.

Full value V7. Soft V8. One move wonder using the left twice off the start beta. The alternative hand heel match on the start beta looks hard!

Right after Grimace.

About 5 tries. Really rough at the bottom but smooths out after thee first few moves. top is covered in little blood droplets. Yum!

V6; the skin sacrifice has to mean something. Easy to a few hard moves in the middle to more easy moves. Joining Ooron for the spelling tick.

Fun climb. Did the running jump start in tennie shoes. Hardcore-Parkour. SCOOOP!!

Ultra classic. Beta is intense. Had great send vibes while working on it from ANW winner and the supermom. Seeing it get walked by them both helped get psyched to finally throw this proj down. Also explains how having it wired can lead to the hilarious V8 grading. Southern sand(bag)stone.

Really Great problem. Beta intense. Can feel pretty hard if you botch the beta or go to the wrong hold which is easy to do considering so much of the wall is chalked with problems that overpass each other.

Tall, topout is heady for the height and grade. Cool moves.

Cool stair step feature.

Less dynoee than its V6 counterpart to the left. Topout is comfortable for the height.

Great movement up to the last few moves. Hard for shorter people than tall people.

Really good V5.

Committing lunge to the shelf. One mover.

Fiiiiiinalyyyyyyy!! After too many sessions. Might be my favorite at the New. Thanks Kory for suggesting toe in right for the reach out to the break at the exit. That was Crucial. Off to Power Stretcher.

2nd time doing. Forgot date of 1st time. Oober classico. Does not feel like a traverse. I would not contest a (V9) grade when comparing to Way of the Gun sit. Every person I have seen do it has had to work it. Great climb. Rolling out of that first cross from the start is sooooo cool!

Looked easy but blew the top-out on flash attempt.

Amazing climbing! Will do any time I come back to Fayette Station. Prob holds the grade for shorties.

Rad line. Got super psyched to do it. Was under water a few years ago on my 1st trip when the snow melt caused the water to be up like 12 to 20 feet. Much drier this time;-)

I was surprised to see the collective grade opinion here, I must have missed some beta because this felt hard to both me and Grady. A bit funky but good.

This problem is so awesome. open hand slopers. Michelle is really close.

Much better once we figured out the beta. Not too bad considering the start hold is an iron bar.

If the 1st move were at the top...maybe then. 2nd try. Siiiyack! Still really great climbing. Line is Clean!

Surprised myself. great climbing. Did it twice 2nd time for video. Because Aaron is obsessed with his camera lol.

Awesome problem. Props to the area developers. Took for-freaking ever. Has some glue on a few holds, but no-one would be able to enjoy the route if it were not there. Has a definite crux move. Congrats to Aaron on FAing this awesome problem. Worth visiting the area just for this one.

Off the beaten path and climbs just as differently from anything else in the area. All well worth it!

Hardest flash of the grade. Knew I had it once I stuck the big move off the stand start. Awesome climbing!

Awesome climb! Sent with Aaron Schneider, Brian Suntay all in the same session. Felt hard to me. Sharp holds low.

Thoroughly enjoyed working this one. Worked on it from the time we arrived to near the time we left. Really challenged me in every way as a climber. Topped it out but broke off a few loose holds while working out the sequence.

Worked the $hit out of this before sending. Breaking into the V5 grade? I don't recommend this one. Dean's Trippin' calling it 5. Grade V5+ because it felt like V10.

Underrated. Great problem.

Great Climb. Love the foot sequences Hueco demands.

Intense problem. Short and sweet. Still satisfying when I finally pulled over the lip.

Sharp

OUCH Sharp.

Not bad.

Movement specific. Surprisingly not as height dependent as initially thought. I understand why they call it the wonder dyno, When you send it you wonder how it felt so hard before.

Long down climb. I think my body swing a full 180 degrees and learned what it feels like to fall perfectly horizontal in the process. Metolius Fat Bastard was well worth every penny that day.

Really fun.

Amazing holds.

Felt good. Thanks to Aaron Schneider for unlocking a key right hand flip at the top that allowed the send. Could have just as easily been his FA. Really fun, sustained line.

Key foot placement made this one go. Traversey but fun. Feels solid V9. (Aaron Schneider doesn't acknowledge how strong he is ;-)

Classic problem. One of a kind crux. Reminds me that climbing is not all about curling up on tiny crimps on overhanging walls.

Felt hard for me. High point dyno crux after sustained opening moves. Don't dab on the rock behind you on the move to the lip. It was a pain for me.

So many different ways to do this one, its great. Alma Blanca... Holy shnikees.

Unique climbing. really fun. Could be one of my favorites. Kudos to Dave Graham for establishing this gem!

So fun. Gym climbing to a T... Bone shuffle.

Amazing movement. Very 3 dimensional. Sustained. Had to keep it tight on the top out too because of the dab hazard.

Traverse that does not quite feel to traversey.

Took a long time to finally tick this one off. Great climb.

Felt good on it. Really fun.

Cool climb. Not that often have I had the chance to climb on more than 90 degree overhang.

Repeat. Forgot original send date. Finish standing position on rock. Good problem.

Oh Oh it's magic, you know? A little body English goes a long way further than pure brute force on this one kids!

committing.

One session. Extension looked really cool

Cool Problem, used slightly different beta.

Classic. One of those problems that you just have to do before the others.

Excellent climbing. Brian, Ang, Noah, Siemay and I had a great session.

Awesome Climbing.

Nostalgic classic. A toast to John Sherman.

Classic. So chalked and polished.

Committing. It is a proud send.Scary when you look back down.

Hard. Took some time to work out the beta. Long for a roof problem. Don't let your foot blow levering into the topout boulder.

Forget about everything. Epic view at the top.

Classic. Another right of passage for any climber. Do Godiva while your in the area while your at it.

1st of the grade. Made the dyno with the help of "try harder!"

Awesome climb. Top out is epic and fun. Some holds are less awesome. Strange story: The day we sent we drew some smily faces in the dirt joking how the rangers will think it is historically significant. This was no more than a month or so before they closed the boulder. Its a damn shame.

Classic

This one was heady for my 1st high ball.

What an awesome problem. Blew it at the finish what felt like 100 times before sending. Glad it wasn't on video lol.

One of the best boulder problems I have encountered! So heavily chalked and blackened from rubber that the sequence is obvious. Still think it is V2. Still think it is and will remain a classic. Uses every foot technique in climbing, has every hold type in climbing. And they are just right.

Excellent. Sweet holds, overhung, pumpy, and you don't even need pads. What more could you ask for? Love Hueco.

Felt impossible like so many HP40 problems until Jeremy Watson suggested key beta that made it feel almost easy.

Awesome climb. Topout is not just mindless. Landing slopes up with the climb which is nice. Prominent line. Really fun.

The best nostalgic traverse you will climb. It is a right of passage for any climber. Look behind you when you top out, the view is nice:)

Awesome Problem, Flying is a great word to describe the final move to the lip. Small holds, great movement. Classic! Worst flapper I have witnessed was from a guy who tried this problem.

Great problem. Hold are consistent for the grade all the way up.

Powerful problem. First for the grade! Heel hooking is a desirable trait for this problem.

Awesome problem, so fun, perfect height, good holds, great movement.

Bottom has really great movement. The topout is no gimmee.

Cool Problem. John Sherman spreading the wealth around. Dropped off.

V3 if you use all the holds. Eliminate, V4 if you skip the last right hand and dyno to the jug.

V4 from the stand start. Really great climbing.

Crimpy!

4th try. Great climbing. Unique style to the area.

This problem looks different every time I walk past it. The erosion is eating this boulder to bits.

Highpoint of my 1st outdoor trip. Discovered conglomerate and what it can do to fingers in a few minutes on this trip. Awesome