Chiu Chiu

nth tries for the first boulder move. Fun and technical up

A fun traverse longer route in the area. Crux for mantling up the platform at mid point.

3rd go, hard 7a+ (7b I suggest) for many far locking moves + a difficult cross hand crux at end session. More difficult than Press Gang in my opinion.

Soft, 3rd try, personal grade 7a+ to 7b. Short route with one single crux not difficult to solve.

6c-6c+. Short with one technical crux

6c to 6c+. Short and vertical wall moves. Soft

Technical traverse moves, sustainable and fun!

Not easy 6b+ if not using holds at right face

Easy cool down route. Straight forward.

2nd go. Short, powerful and cruxy.

A good transverse with long moves on big holds. Shorter walk to crag :P

2nd go. Good classic and endurance testpiece for the long overhang wall, good variety of long moves, finger power and body movements.

4th go. Guidebook suggests 5.12a. A nice ceiling route at 河源之廣場，jump start (failed at my 1st and 3rd try!) and hard fight at the end for the deeper and deeper overhang! Good for my pain foot though.

This should be another must do classic together with 卒業. Not hard after warm up.

A good warm up for the area! Love the funny granite overhang style.

9th tries, plus ages ago trying on 1st move. Now guidebook downgraded it to 7b+/7b. Bouldery start and mid crux which much depends on rock condition.

nth tries for the reachy dyno. Finally managed to swing and stick with right hand and right foot! Pretty amazing move for me! Hard if you are not tall!

2nd go. Scary for the starting slab!

2nd go. A nice transverse line which add on few crux for short people, however it is still one of the wonderful face and crack climbing in the area!

2nd go with dogged first moves ages ago. Definitely not an easy route, delicate moves at beginning

3rd go, guidebook suggests 7b. Very nice technical route! shouldery and delicate footwork at crux, carefully hike up the crack.

3rd go excluding single moves trys. Very long bouldery move and scary crux at 1st to 2nd draw!

2nd go, hard regarding grade 21!

Good warm up problem for this area!

2nd go, grade 22 slab problem! Very scary 1st clip at 5m, then spaced draws throughout. Very technical and good sequence required.

3rd go. 1st try was 2 weeks ago, cannot solve crux. 2nd try finally solve without the kneebar move! 3D problem!

3rd go, faster than Weapon (27)! More of my style, a bit longer route with good body movements, bridging and footwork!

7th go, classic route for Mt Coolum which contains many knee bars and jams! Harsh on skin though

3rd go. Easy first half and technical and long move later. Fun to play with those large horns! :)

2nd go, with self bringing QDs! Hard boulderary moves for first 3 bolts, more funny and sustained moves up!

2nd go, Guide says 24 (7a+). One crux at the end which consumed me a few tries.

2nd go. A short but overhang problem, my favourite style of using many footwork and body position to reduce burden on arms!

Transverse for the 1st bolt, delicate footwork

nth try to the 1st and 2nd draw, sent in one go another day! Happy to send my first 25 at Mt Coolum! :)

2nd go. Bridging on sloping holds with careful footwork.

@Mt Coolum, my 1st route here. Very funny rock!

@Mt Coolum, 2nd go. Very pumpy and core strength for this route, as 1st day climb in this area

No name@ El Laboratori, 3rd go. Hard bouldery start for the short route (<15m)

@ Espadellas, 2nd go. Hard boulderary beginning

@ Espadelles, 4th go. Similar to Malasombra 7c+ but with a harder crux and more sustained upper session

@ Espadelles. Good warm up

@Espadelles, 4th go. Tried the route in different conditions (hot and sunny / windy with clouds) and finally sent. Pocketary crux in 1st half and sustained climbing up

@Espedelles. Fun little transverse climb the ledge, side pulls and bridging, less finger pockets!

@ Can Verdures. Fingery problem throughout, hard 7a

@ Can Verdures, 3rd go. Hard bouldering start session

@ Can Verdures, 2nd go. Again fell at overhang beginning

@ Tenebres, 4th go. Might be soft 8a as it fits my style. Beautiful endurance route, with overhang, roof and vertical climbing, pockets, slopers and side movements, pretty every variety for a good route!

@ Tenebres. Good warm up

@ Tenebres. Not an easy 6c+ for onsight and warm up. Short with some keeping moves.

@ Tenebres, 2nd go. Pretty much my style again, overhang with plenty of foot holds, some little crux with keeping

@ Espadelles, 2nd go. Solid for the grade, crux at beginning and mid session

@ Espadelles, 4th go. It was a hot day and this was my last try. A bit greasy holds but I tried hard even I made minor mistakes on some sequences. I nearly missed at the last crux but finally managed to lock up and bloom got the pocket!! Hard fight but worthy~

@ Espadelles, 2nd go. Few crux for me but solvable after working. Rest of the route is good crack climbing with good rest

@ Espadelles, 2nd go. Hardest 7a+ so far as it is hard pockets searching and locking for 2/3 of the route!

@Cabernet. Very soft 7c for me, no specific crux but half of the route with no chalk and you need to look for good pockets, rope drag at top sessions for long route

@ Cabernet, climb up for reaching upper platform

@ Cabernet. One of the softest grade 7b, sustained good pockets up

@ Cabernet, 2nd go. Short with one crux.

@Raco de les Espadelles, another easy 7a, fun at top slab climb

@ Raco de la Finestra. Hard pocket moves for first 3 draws then scary spaced bolts near finish

@ Raco de la Finestra, 4th go. It was a freezing day with my fingers and toes all with no feeling!

@ Raco de la Finestra. First get on with the pockets on slabs

@ Raco de la Finestra, 3rd go. Hard pockets start with sustained finish

@Las Ventanas, guidebook suggested 7 b/+. 2nd go, fun route with one major crux

@Aquest any si, 3rd go. Very powerful problem for my warm up! :(

@ Aquest any si. Sustained Technical climbing throughout.

@ Pince sans rire, my first 7c onsight after harsh sustain climbing at overhang and ceiling! The route consists of all styles: tufa, face, overhangs and ceiling! A classic!

@ Pince sans rire, 2nd go for the 8a! It was like dreaming but the route is just an endurance problem with good hand and foot holds to rest, very sport route.

@ Aquest any si. A hard 7a for me with no good foot holds for rest

@ Aquest any si, 2nd try! Extension of 2 bolts from 7a+! Just one boulder move! Very soft 7c+

@ Aquest any si. Good tufa comfortable warm up!

@ Aquest any si, 2nd try. One crux at mid, short route though.

@Las Ventanas. Not easy for an onsight!

@Las Ventanas, 10th try to send! 30m overhang throughout, with wet tufa after rain. Changes on sequences and still managed to send it! :Da

@Las Ventanas, 3rd go. Short with many tufas, can take good rests with few knee bars! (but very painful :P)

@Las Ventanes. Soft 7a with jugs!

@Las Ventanas, 2nd go. A short route with pumpy session for 1 draw range

@ Surgencia5th go! Hard slab start for me

@Surgenia.Tufa and tufa! Fun all way up

@Surgencia. My first 7b+ onsight with bringing draws! Very technical with tranverse at faces, scary 28m with only 9 draws!

@Las Ventasas, 6th go. A soft 8a for me, good one with tufa, knee jam, dyno, everything in a route! :)

@Las Ventanas, 2nd go. Hard but funny one

@ Las Ventanas. Be patient at the overhang…

@ Gran Boveda. 2nd go. Crazy tufa climbing with lots of knee jam and twist legs! :) A good challenge!

@ Gran Boveda. 4th try. the route got all kinds: slab, overhang, tufa, pinches and locking! Crux at last overhang session was solved using a foothold!

@ Gran Boveda. 2nd try. Climb across lots and lots of tufa! Quite pumpy one

@Pince sans rire. 2nd go. Should be able to onsight on a more concentrated try.

@Pince sans rire. 3rd go. A bit soft for a 7c+. First half should be easy but I felt pumpy, last part I can rest with drop knees at tufa! :) 2 nos. of 7c+ sent in 2 days!

@Delfin. One of the funniest ever! Tufa up then entire body trapped at a narrow gap, stand up slowly and you can get good jugs!

@ Delfin. 2nd go! Fastest 7c+ ever! A relative soft route for me, good holds at overhangs and ceiling, delicate footworks. Iconic route for Rodellar, happy to make a send! ^^

@ Egocentrismo. Guidebook suggested 7a+. Overhang at beginning making the crux, but go for it and you gain more and more confidence up! ;)

@ El Camino. 2nd go. Crux at 2nd to 5th draw, quite hard and precise

@ EL camino. 2nd go, hard start for few draws then easy up

2nd go. Fun tufa and transverse, work carefully for final corner bridging session!

2nd try. Quite hard for me on the grade, long moves and spaces QD.

2nd go. A hard crux at high session.

4th go! Tufa and Tufa! Lomg moves and pinches!

2nd go. Pretty painful crimps throughout

3rd go. Guidebook says 7b+. Not hard after working on sequences.

Tried the next one 6c+ as first, very polished and hard beginning. This route was much better and share same end as 6c+.

2nd go. 7a as in guidebook, funny with tufa, crux at top

2nd go. Tiring overhang session

2nd try. One fingery crux at the middle with some side body movements.

3rd try excluding 1st move :P Hard start as usual, some pocket crux which are famous for Ceuse climbing. Long and sustained!

2nd try. Dogged all moves in first try, very delicate foot holds (my first time pump for the foot!!)

3rd try. 1st problem sent in Ceuse, crux at beginning then easy slab till top

2nd go. Hard fingery start, long moves and eventually reach good holds. Short problem

What a 28m long and roof problem! Extraordinary in Nowra, my favourite style of ceiling and roof with good holds and good rest. Fun big cave for rest in between!

Very short problem, powerful and long moves

Long and powerful moves throughout, require dynamic movements for me

Route to take back confidence in Nowra!! Long time no onsight any route! Technical drop knee and balance

nth try. The dyno at mid part was so hard for me, not for tall person though

@ Rosies, 4th try?! Hard bouldery start (famous for Nowra's problems!) Long enough for fun though :)

3rd go, a soft 26

5th go, creative moves to crux, scary spaced bolts!!

2nd go, slopers and cold weather are the crux

Tried on a crazily windy and rainy day, no sense on finger tips!!! 2 trials!

2nd trial. A big cross hand with sloppers but great fun! Long over-run to anchor!

Trials so many times! Looked like no special crux but pumpy climb throughout the steep overhang wall!

2nd go, powerful start. Unexpectedly long route with a good mix of overhang and vertical climbs!

Nice route on a super overhang!

A relatively soft 28 for me, more on endurance than crux. Funny transverse route!

My first ever route need 20+ times on one single crux but finally I sent it! Bouldery first portion with merits if you are tall.

My first flash 7C! Share same bouldery moves with Onions and all the way jugs with power endurance.

Grage 25 in guide. 3rd go. Powerful 1st move but then funny power endurance, can't expect that long route!

2nd go, happy to top this technical route!

Short but long moves up overhang wall

nth trial to get the 1st bouldery start!

2nd go. Power bouldery move up to 4th quickdraws.

Crux of long move in vertical part! Funny end move with entire left leg jammed!

An easy one just with a long move start

3rd attempt! My first Grade 26 in the Blueys! Long and bouldery moves for me but happy to make it finally! :)

Excellent overhang climb with big jugs!

2nd go. Happy to send this route with long moves! :)

very sharp jugs!

2nd attempt. Sharp holds!

Excellant slab and vertical wall climbing!

2nd attempt, technical slab and vertical wall movements!

Fun ceiling climb with big jugs, one move for crux

2nd attempt, a difficult 23

Big jugs for 7a!!

2nd attempt, bouldery first 3 draws!

Hard and thin crimps in the middle part!

Hard to jump up to first jug!

Big jugs throughout except one delicate move to the right

Fun climbing ^^

Pretty technical slab at lower part

7a+ / 7b, increasing tiring up the overhang wall

8a as in guidebook

Pumpy overhanging climb!Hard to onsight!

Easy 7b+ with only one crux

Technical one!

Funny 3 finger pockets crux!

A long 6b with long moves and spaced quickdraws!

Scary lay-back on black tufa! Happy to onsight with bring QDs! :)

Similar as DNA

2nd attempt. Too pumpy to find holds at final section

Bouldery start, scary if no QD yet!

2nd attempt. A technical crux, fun to climb!

Vertical climb. A bit shaking for feet!

Famous route, suprisingly easy

2nd trial. Full overhang 35m tufa climbing with lots of rest points, excellent!

Long moves with overhang

Short with crux at mid

Fun tufa climb with scary spacy bolts! (some up to 3-4m!)

Guidebook grade 7b+, 1st pitch, not sure if reaching end or not :P

My first 7b onsight, 30m endurance route.

Hard for an warm up

Enjoyable climbing!

Overhang 1st part

Short 12m 7a+ with only one technical crux

My style, easy

2nd trial. Soft 7b

A must try roof climb

Long move with good holds~

Graded 6b/6b+ in guide

Classic for Beacon Hill

Soft 7b

Graded 6c in guidebook

Quite scary for an 6a+

Sent in Oct 2009

Funny slab start

Crazily scary long slab!!

Graded 7b+ in guide but feel like more than that!

Fun climb

big move, not an 6c for small guys

Graded 7c in guidebook but a hard one for me

Scary but fun slab climbing!

Possibly 10th+ tries and the 4th go of the day to send it! One of the constraints is limited time before sun hits the crag! Good holds and big moves in 1st half, technical crux in less overhang later part. A good one! :)

Scary start...

Must try one!

8a/8a+ Funny big jump at crux!