Christian Fredh

Found a new hold today, which made quite a difference.

Sven did it top rope after.

Samuel almost had it after a couple of attempts but the top was tricky. Sven did it top rope.

Samuel as belay. Samuel and Sven top roped easily after.

Few session later. Went from a wrestling game to trying to move efficient between the rests. Knee bar+pad before the top.

Funky clip, 3rd go.

Bolts.

2nd go. Left-ish.

Shaky clipping in the crux but it worked out. 3rd attempt.

Bolts.

2nd go.

3rd go. Very nice route, with a rest in the middle.

2nd go. Climbed on the right, then tricky end.

Couldn't figure out the crux at first but a few tries later I found the crimps. Also the kneebar.

2nd go.

2nd go.

2nd go.

Broken finger. Wet 2 attempts yesterday. Bit better today. 2nd attempt today.

Wet. Had to clip stick first bolt.

Lead rope solo.

Free solo.

Free solo.

Nice problem!

Dabbed first go.

Nice crimpy start, cool dyno and a mantel. Maybe not the best warmup. 2nd go.

Took me 3ish sessions but felt solid in the end. Efficient start. Then high right foot, back flag, left hand to the left. High right feet and then bump a lot.

Händer på kanten. Fötter varsom.

Had to go down and pick up the brush. A little bit cleaner now.

Pulled the huge starting hold but an equally big starting hold appeared. Otherwise flash.

Felt hard for the grade.

Great route with nice sequence in the crux. Tried it last time a couple of times. Second go today.

Sit started on the two crimps on the right.

Sit start.

Sit start.

Sit start.

Sit start.

2nd go.

Finally..

Done with the new bolts.

Sit start. Heel on the right and left toe under. Send left hand up to bad slooper then desperate right hand and again to top.

Sit down start. 5 minutes brushing. 3 minutes brush point. Topped out. 15 minutes trying to find a place to go down. Got down far left in the end.

3rd go. Kylskåp. Drop the left foot and find ledge to bump right hand to the bad crimp in the start. 2 bolts pre-clipped.

3rd go. Use Ohm if you are heavier than your belayer. Had a foot slip at the anchor which got scary.

3rd go. Reachy, but quite okay after a couple of attempts.

Säla!

No arete.

A bit mossy in the end but quite okay otherwise.

Fun route! Onsight except the tick marks.

Nice slab start and then nice moves in the end. Onsight except a couple of tick marks in the end.

Super sweet sequences! 2nd go today. Tried once or twice last session. Keep left at the top.

Nice new addition to the crag! 6c is an appropriate grade I think. 3rd go.

Spent a few attempts last session. This session it went down on the warmup attempt knowing the feet and heel hook to the right.

Very delicate beta. Right gaston, left, match right, out to the left, up with right foot, left hand to gaston, and jump.

Bit tricky first go. 2nd go. Used bolts and qds.

Very cool traverse!

Bit tricky following the bolt line completly. Took a couple of attempts.

1st go but done upper part before.

2nd go. Juggy. From the ground and not the rock. Pulled a hold from the start but doable anyway.

Appropriate name. Nice and quite tricky section before the anchor.

You know it's a new route when the only tick marks are the ones for where to put the bolts. Cool route with a roof. Went up and a bit right thought he roof.

Enjoyable new route!

2nd go.

2nd go.

Had to go around to brush away the moss from holds. Bit hard and quite mental topout. A couple of attempts and some brush climbs. Good list with two crimps and the good left hold on the top.

2nd go.

First pitch.

Very nice route. Many rests but pumpier in the end than expected. 2nd go.

The left one (says "Terror bajo el culo" under but that I think is the one on the right). The one directly right of "Ceguera temporal". 2nd go.

Climbed only to the first anchor. 6b in the book.

2nd go. Nice route. "15. Por ahi van los tiros" in the book.

Went to hold, but ut wasn't a hold. Bit tricky when wet. 2/3rd go.

2nd attempt.

Dabbed the start a few times.

Tricky start which took a few attempts. Used the grip on the lip.

Something broke in the end? Loose rocks at least.

Something broke in the end? Loose rocks at least.

Mysigt.

Started in Sista minuten, which is actually not what is drawn in the topo I think. Ended in same jug as El pincho ss. Second attempt.

Right jug. Then did left jug as well, bit harder.

Did stand start after.

A couple attempts for the start. It's very low. Did stand start after.

Right heel hook. Straight up using two pockets. A few attempts.

2nd go.

2nd go.

Super nice vertical problem that can eat some skin. Tried it on previous trips but this time it felt like good progress all attempts until send, like 10th try or so. Katanas FTW. Cross left, left foot, left side hold, right foot higher, high right crimp, right foot down next to left, left foot up higher, left high side crimp, and a couple more moves and done.

Heel, lock off, left crimp, right crimp, ledge. 2nd go today. Tried it last time on Åland but no luck then.

Tried it first time in 2017 and could only do stand start back then. Haven't been able to do the sit start since but now when we are allowed back after corona it went well. Double heel hooks to start.

It's great to be back on Åland! Two years since we were allowed in due to corona. Then I fell on the top out after a day of struggle. This time it felt much easier and went on the first burn after trying the moves. Happy with the heel hook beta I found to avoid the full cut loose which still worked great.

Great route with sweet sequences! Almost pumped out the move before the rest, but somehow got through it. 3 sessions, 7th go in total. 7b+/7c.

Delicate slab. Felt hard first go but quite good the following attempt. 2nd go.

Brush as you climb.

Nice little route. 2nd go.

Super route with delicate sequences which suited me well. Flash except I've done the lower part before when trying Puls.

2nd go. Had to brush one hold from moss on the right in the start. Followed bolt line and used arete for left hand and a couple of times right hand as well.

2nd go. To the roof.

2nd go.

I felt a bit rusty, oh wait, that was the bolts... Took a couple of attempts, but could be because I didn't want to fall on those bolts. Fun little one otherwise.

Start right side holds, then straight from the second bolt. Tried once last year, today it went first go.

No crossed loose hold. With "extension" to the jug one meter above the anchor.

3rd go. Even fell once before the first bolt. Nice with spotter.

Left edge and then go for the jug. 2nd go.

A bit tricky and a bit crimpy. Took a couple of tries to get the start, and then checking out the second part.

Nice line, and crimps! Not sure my pull hard beta was the prettiest on the top part but it went down at least. 3rd go.

Done Mr. Big previously.

Pretty nice, went to second anchor. Got surprisingly pumped.

Bit tricky on the face but went fine second go.

2nd go. Found a nice foot sequence for the crux which worked great. Still pumped when I got there and a big move with left hand up to pinch. Barely stuck it. Didn't use big hold to the right.

Nice route with delicate foot sequence in the top. Also, good to reach stuff. 2nd go today. Tried it a few times before.

Second go. Soft.

Have sent it before but to the anchor. Tried it solo lead the day before, but chickened out on the top slab. But with proper belay it was a lot more comfortable. Airy!

Fun little one. Bit soft for the grade maybe. 3rd go, but felt like it should have gone down on 2nd.

Tricky and short. Crossed to left side pull, crimp crimp, ledge. 2nd go.

Cool route. 2nd go.

Tricky and fun. But where is the anchor? Had to climb down a bit again and go to the anchor to the right. 3rd go.

Nice route with cool crux which needed some detailed beta. Third session, although tried it last year. Imperiet ending. No kneebar used.

A masterpiece!

Didn't know where the line went, so did both right into "Sträck dig ståstart" which I had to work the moves on quite a bit, and left to the left jug first which was easier. Also found the left side grip before the top on the second send which made it easier.

Hard crux move. Good feet and some power dynamic move. Found static moves up to crux start, with left foot jammed high up, right hand to semi good hold, left hand to undercling in the middle and then left hand to jug. 3rd go today. Also 5 tries last session on it.

Nice few meters of climbing. Done after Verklighet (which was one of my first 6c and felt really nice repeating and felt easy now).

Nice and delicate. Crux need some love to figure out. Left hand to the crimp on the right, lower part to make room for right hand on the good upper part. Right foot. Left foot on small ledge, but leave room for right foot. Pinch, and left foot out far to the left. Then left hand to the sloper and then find the pocket. Match, then to the good hold. The rest is not easy but when figured out it's just resting in between and try to remember where all the holds are. 2nd go today. 2 tries two days ago. Also tried it once last year.

Cool move and then easier to the top. Used the good corner hold today to reach the crimp but still managed to cut loose when matching. Stuck it luckily. 2nd go today. 4 in total.

Bit tricky the start half, then easy. Done Pokemon Go and Sjukskriven before, both first go as well.

Hard finish. Desperate move to sloper and finding the finger slot. Lucky there are good rests before the last part. Second try today, but tried it a couple of times late last year as well.

Two cruxes, yes, very true. Went on second go when I had all the beta. Good route!

Easy, then hard in the end. Went to some sloper on the left-ish and then slopers to right and clip anchor. Weird line.

Good route!

Brush as you go. Confused where to top out, went out right, to a bolt and tree to rappel down.

Done after Lätta.

Hard start. And confused it first time with the one to the left. 3rd go.

First lead 6a trad sent. Took a fall on it by the roof yesterday and got very scared so was very mentally challanging today and took a long time. One pre-placed nut was there at the roof. Did a follow on it yesterday also after the fall. Thanks for the patience Costin!

First day this week it started raining when I tried to lead it in the middle of the route so had come down. Followed this time.

Wet. Kept to the right. 2nd go.

Nice short one! Dynamic move. 2nd go.

Great climbing all the way!

2nd go. Tricky!

Went down first go today, which felt good. Tried once last year and a couple of times two years ago.

2nd go today. Tried one time a year ago. Hard for the grade.

2nd go. Aslo did light version before.

2nd go. Topped out.

2nd go. Cross.

3rd go.

2nd go.

2nd go. Really nice climb, similar to Diana, but a bit harder.

No chalk on the holds, luckily I had beta master Costin with me.

Been trying the normal Kryssa route four sessions now. This version went down on third go today, figuring out more and more detailed beta for each attempt. Used crack in the start.

Felt super hard on the first go, so it went down surprisingly fast. 3rd go. Found the thumb for the pinch which helped a lot. Left hand crimp, right hand first hold after the ledge, foot up, pull sideways onto the foot. Then with right hand pinch and then good crimp.

A bit tricky slab in a couple of places.

2nd go. Tricky, but okay when you find the holds. Sport.

2nd go. Tried using the power beta first time. Then I found the good holds.

2 pitons, 2 quick draws and a small cam in the top.

Felt very doable from the first go, but very wet holds this day, so took 4 goes I think. Had to chalk and brush the lists and two crimps, then hurry down and climb fast.

Easier if you skip the good hold on the right. Short but nice.

Went left first go which I couldn't recover from. Second go straight up and that went better. Hard start.

Just used the first piton with an alpine draw, the rest was bolts.

Used the 2 pitons, one with alpine draw, one with quick draw. Couple of cams and a nut.

Left anchor.

Such a nice route! Suits be very well and thankful to get some beta to get started with all the moves which felt good from the start. Tall beta. Had to adjust a bit in the end after first burn. Hand down to crimp, then match with foot. In the end, crimp, match, foot, then side pull on then right to reach two-finger crimp with the left, pull. 3rd go (2nd burn).

This route has everything, monos, crimps, underclings, slopers, manteling. Tried once last year and some time before that as well. Today, it went with no major issues, but didn't remember anything.

A few attempts. Left foot under start holds, and right foot on the highest one to the right. Then go.

Probably sent with the worst beta ever.

That took a few attempts. Straight up with right hand to good hold. Left to shitty crimp, right to even shittier crimp. Right foot up on right side. Pull. Didn't use right jug on the top as I tried previously.

4rd go today. Quite close to flash it but end section was tricky and too many options. Took a couple of more attempts and the send was a fight in the end section.

3rd go today. 2 tries last session. We found a tiny crimp for the left hand in the crux which helped a lot. Also, with right hand use the inner grip with the thumb was important.

Took a couple attempt to get standing on the edge from the ground. I chickened out last time to go to the top after that. Today I did. Holy shit that was scary! Clean as you go.

A few attempts. Didn't feel I high-steped right foot first send, but did it again to try that and it work well also.

3rd go. Dabbed twice before.

Looked a bit difficult but it went well.

2nd go. Heel hook clip. Crimp, crimp, long move, undercling thing.

2nd go. Went left in the end. Pulled off a crimp on the right version when trying it after, might be doable anyway but harder.

Lead rope solo. Messed up the start a couple of times. Start with high feet was good.

Lead rope solo. Used 3 nuts and 1 cam on good placements.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo. Started with Irrbloss.

Really cool climbing and moves on upper section. Used the crimp, low left leg, left hand to side-pull. Small foot hold to the right instead of the slippery surface. 4th go. First 7b that went down in one session I think.

2nd go.

Took a few attempts. Used good sloper to left. Heel hook.

Foot hold broke on the way up, but shouldn't make any difference.

Sit start.

Sit start.

Very low sit start. 3rd go.

Sit start.

2nd go.

Free solo.

Free solo. Only the crack. Little scary.

Free solo.

Free solo.

Free solo.

2 tries yesterday, went on 2nd go today. Tape helps.

One try yesterday, went on first go today.

3rd go.

Lead rope solo.

Free solo. Wet and many leaves.

Also very cool route! ~5th go. Found beta that worked in the end.

Nice route! 2nd go. Great beta dudes!

2nd attempt.

Nice crimps! Okay even when wet. Second go.

Unfriendly third clip when wet. Could use another bolt. Difficult top part when wet so had to work out a better beta. 3rd go or something.

Wet but went alright. Had to clean it a bit during onsight.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo. 3rd go - commitment issues.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

2nd go after failing catching the top on first go. Bit wet on the top, but okay on an otherwise wet crag.

2nd go. Bit wet on the top, but okay on an otherwise wet crag.

Sit start. Felt too easy. Used holds on rock below to the right. Maybe not correct start?

Sit start.

Sit start.

Left variant which felt natural. Guess right variant is possible too.

Tried it once last year. Felt good on the first try today, but got beta wrong after that and did mistakes so took longer than expected. Tired, but went finally down on 6th go today.

6th go (3rd burn) over 3 sessions. Felt really solid today, with the beta and good conditions. Good rests, even a no hands today.

1st go today. Had a couple of tries last time here. Hard sit start, then easy.

Sit start. Slipped a couple of times. Then just clean while climbing.

Stand start. Mossy.

2nd go. Desperate climbing.

3rd go. Went left in the end with the amazing knee bar. Nice route!

2nd go. Freakishly hard the first couple of tries.

Tiny beta shouted to me. Nice little route.

3rd go. 2 tries last time here, went down first go today. First qd pre-clipped, rest put up during climb.

Nice problem. Sit start. Felt easy using the lower part for feet.

2nd go.

Did it twice, one with right hand on the big grip to the right, one time without.

In the rain. Think I sit started.

2nd go. Tried it one time before. Sent it first go today, with qds and all, felt much easier this time and really nice!

Thought it was longer at first so jumped down because the end grip had too much moss and stuff on it but had two hands on it so appearantly sent it. No use of big block. Broke a bit from a hand hold in the big horizontal crack on the way, shouldn't matter I think.

Took 3 goes. From left to right to vertical crack above the moss. And next separate go the opposite direction. Broke a small foothold in the middle on this direction.

3rd go I think. Feet are good to have, for toe hooks.

Well that took a while. On my 3rd session. Crucial right hand alignment, bump bump, foot higher, top out. Broke a tiny foot hold low to the right on a previous session, not at all necessary though.

I think 3rd go in total. 2 tries on previous session. Remembered the beta well and found some great rests. Was warmed up and rested so it went pretty easily today.

Trying my new trad gear.

2nd go.

Tried to sit start a few times with no luck, don't think sit start was intended though. Flashed the stand start.

Tree dab allowed I hope. Sit started.

Dabbed the tree first go so did it second time without. Sit started.