Cyrus Huang

trad climb, nuts only till fixed anchor

didn't do the jump, went left to the arete to go around

climbed with crack gloves, which helps a lot

A soft 7b. The crux sequence pumps your arms out within seconds especially for those of us who hate crimp

The overhanging arete seems intimidating, but filled with surprisingly good cut and pockets. One of the easier 7a in the area

3rd attempt in total. Quite a challenge for newbie in crack climbing

I think the crux of this pitch is harder than next pitch

single move crux

Assuming some good holds has been chipped off, it doesn't feel like a 6a+ at all

still took me a few attempts to send after top roping just a week ago. I'm so stupid. Having the rope in the way definitely add the scare factor...

First go today. Holds are freezing, but the crux doesn't seems to be as hard as last year. Maybe the cold help, or I have better pump resistance now

thanks to my belayer's reminder on where the holds are, hard to spot otherwise

I think it's harder than Unnamed1. The start might be very hard for climber shorter than 170cm

From 2nd to 3rd bolt, t's actually easier to climb on the face than from the crack once you know the moves

one of the scariest (slab) 6a+ I climbed in Hong Kong... exposed view

Started under the 1st bolt, which is rather hard for a 6a. Perhaps we should start on the far right?

took me about 8 attempts in total? send on 2nd attempt of the day, after putting all draws up from 1st attempt.

2nd attempt since forever. Still need beta from friend midway.

pre-clip the 2nd bolt first! Otherwise, you may risk a ground fall

technical manoeuvree required

shorter climber may have harder time at the crux, but at least no need for dyno

dyno through the crux is likely the easier beta

I found it easier to reach for the last jug staticly than the dynamic way

climber with longer reach may find the top section easier by reaching a good pinch under the roof on upper left of last bolt. Hence, no need to move to the right and then left again to reach the anchor

as per the name, crux is, after reaching the first tufa, to reach the pinch on the right of the thin tufa; and then fight your way up till next bolt

Keep a cold head to find the foothold. It make a difference

Although the surfaces seem dry, the cracks could still be wet. It was scary indeed to climb on the first 3 bolts while all the best holds in cracks are wet. Best to stick clip the first bolt, not a good place to fall.

I can't find my way up using only the face, so I used the right edge of the wall most of the time until the last few bolts

there's a rather good side pull on the right of the 3rd bolt. I use it so that I can shift my foots to the right and then go high up for some good small cut where the dying grass lied. This way, I avoided going for the big pinch at the 11 o'clock of the 3rd bolt.

very fun route. got almost a bit of everything

actually more easier to read than the #2 route. but several moves may post more difficulty to shorter climber.

properly named

Pure crack climb

hard start that require to work on several not so good holds and stretching far to reach some more positive pockets. it get easier after the mid section

Somewhat easier than Ants in the pants, with more good holds to take rest on

Consistent lock offs and high steps

Crux from 1st to 4th bolt. Easy climb to the top afterward

Short interesting climb up the tunnel, may take more time than you expect to reach the anchor. As stated in guidebook AGA, "One of the most unique routes you'll ever climb..."

Crux from the last bolt. Need to top out the tufa with smooth surface. There is a rather positive cut at far right, but didn't help you to get up higher. Instead, I lean my right side on the tufa and get my left foot high on the horizontal crack, in order to reach high on the positive cut on wall, above the tufa. Then, part mantle part belly flop myself get both foots up. Ugly but work.

finally 😃 at the top out (the 2nd Crux), I used the good side cut with right hand and did a twist lock with high foots on the face, and managed to reach the jug high up.

the route became easier since a hold broken into a big jug

it helps to know how to use finger sized ledges/steps

prepare to get pumped

Not that physical demanding, but rather tricky to try to stable yourself on angled ledges.

1st crux requires to put right feet high just above hip, then lock-off with right arm for left hand to reach the good slot of the crack on the right face (left feet may require to backstep for reaching higher)

Crux come soon after the 2nd or 3rd bolt. Face it head on with very delicate footwork and/or explosive lock off. Alternatively, go right and up to the ledge for a somewhat scary and technical (but with way better footings and non-powerful) manoeuvre to reach the next draw.

The good holds between 1st and 2nd bolts can be wetted by water through the cracks, but it won't make the climb impossible.

Do: try to get to the mid section with lots of good hold for resting. shake off before process to the crux. Don't: spend too much time at first third of the route where holds are not so nice and arm will get pumped real quick

Tried to avoid the good cracks to either side as guidebook suggested. But eventually, around the last bolt to anchor, I needed to use the crack and road on the left to send it.

I cheated. Started from beginning of "Oh No!" instead and cut back to the route after clipping in 2nd bolt.