Danja Mewes

short fun route, last bolt often loose. soft 6c, when you compare to the short 6c+ at this crag. but closer to 6b+ (brown sugar at Nacka Kvarn is arguably a little harder, it's right there with 6b+ at Tynningö, but would be 6c at Henriksdal), only given the fact that I had perfect beta at this point. if you're tall the top moves are more trivial and it's going to feel 6b, you can make it keep the grade in that case by not escaping left and going straight to the top. shorter people have a bit more to do, I saw it as a sign that my injury has healed more that I could finally stick the one throw in the injured direction near the top. when I was weaker some years ago I really struggled between 2nd to 3rd bolt on this, I could definitely climb 6b then and that sequence was beyond me. now that feels easy, but it makes me hesitate to downgrade as a lot of the reason it's easier is I climb much harder and kilter board now. maybe not as easy for climbers who can't do a few grades above this, especially if they're shorter.

followed. more fun that it looks. a bunch of different styles but comfortable stances with good anchor on the top. start was fun for me as a sport climber. only the ledge is a bit chossy and not what you'd expect. well worth the climb and fun for a short little route!

followed. struggled more at the top than I expected, not obvious holds there just for one move. fits 5.9. too much grass and a bit of sea wins polish to say it's a classic but one star for the setting

tightened 2 spinners when I put QDs up (bolt 2 & 3). wasn't that clean of an ascent, I'll repeat. probably should've extended the anchor QD to make it work the way I envisioned. holds at this crag especially sweat in the humidity

I wish tall people would stop downgrading stuff, if they had to do 2 mini cruxes on crimps before the top they'd find it to be 6c. would hold 6c (5.11a) in Chattanooga, reminds me of a 5.11a route called "Snake Charmer" at Foster Falls... this is definitely 6c, don't sand bag. What it feels like to you is your personal grade. I'm the average height of a human being (170), it's 6c. anyhow...nice route. I think 4? years ago was the last time I tried it so didn't remember much... I had difficulty back then between bolts 3-4, unable to reach ...now I could bump between two crimps. but, now my left knee is out so I used a mega extended draw on the last bolt to get a better clip spot for my leg, then ran it out to the anchor. put QDs in except top, then messed up after the middle on the next go, sent on last go pretty smoothly

was on it before but never had the reach. super warm today and almost slipped off. worth climbing but the 6cs to the left are better, more fun, and not that much harder

Crux can be a bit stiff if you're short, definitely deadpointed. feels like similar short 6cs at tornskogskilppan

deserves a star because it's well-bolted and interesting for a 5

nice route, did it in the heat. but half a grade is in the start alone.

more of a boulder... but fun anyhow with actually something for feet that isn't glass unlike a lot of stuff on Tenerife. skin was bad the other day, today it took a couple of goes. harder if you're shorter, multiple deadpoints... easier if you're taller, then just one easier deadpoint. Like a condensed 6c crux.

tried this last summer at the end of a session on other things, but didn't have the skin. getting the correct feet for the first move is key, once you have the left sloper it all goes easily. tried at the end of a session today working other things

been on it 8 years ago and 3 years ago, got it today. I would not recommend it for new leaders because of the top, unlike the description. if you're not super tall and have to traverse to the left to clip the last bolts vs the tall beta clipping from below, you're doing extra moves that I think bump the grade up a bit. maybe it's possible from there on dry good friction days for shorter also, with crimps.

Feels more 5a in the middle on one or two clips as you pass this little bulge (I think it is on Rockfax?). might've been a bad head day but not enough that I go from a 7a send last week to not knowing how it felt... saw others on it first before I went up to clean so marking it as a flash

bad head day but this was ok. 5c in Rockfax

worth a climb if you're in the area, soon to be a classic, a bit loose (little rocks and some things) but not polished, nice tufa and good holds. fun! either a hard 6c+ or soft 7a but, it was a fight for me on the send go today (crux feels more like it's in the middle than the top honestly, unless you're tall). Swedes: compare it to a shade harder version of Ursprunget, pumpier, but barely harder than Hugo, barely (so closer to 6c+). yesterday I put QDs in and had a send go with a new belayer I didn't trust, then it rained. so I came back today with yet another new belayer, warmed up on it with cold fingers, then sent it next go just as rain was coming down on me. to get there, we tried to walk the road, encountered 2 big mean dogs, took a long scramble goat path up to the ridge next to Encantadas, went over that, scared off a group of wild boars, ended up on a super muddy bike/walking path... definitely go the normal way past Frontales in the woods if you're walking! better with car... but the epic journey to send such a short route will not be forgotten

finally! this route was my "Achilles heel", love the style but crux is really hard on the knees if you have knee injuries. be careful. put my knees out many times on this and had to do physio (have a screw in my ACL) wore braces on both my knees today and finally got it even with an unhealed MCL tear (and a lot of chocolate and ibuprofen). has a bit of different styles and is fun and worth the journey :)

hadn't been on it for 2 years. nice to get back on it today, although it was damp and made it a little hard with the slopers, not a day flash. but just as fun! 2 stars bc it is fun and worth it for those dynamic moves

would be 5.7 in the US. but regardless this was the only thing I could climb today when I was falling asleep standing up and my skin was worn out from 6 outdoor sessions the past week ... anyhow sorry for the downgrade, just no hard moves and all jugs and very easy clips even when wet

yes feels 6c+ like Hugo, crux in the start. got it 2nd go of the year (2 goes today just for fun). didn't really top out to the ledge though, just clipped and grabbed the left side pulls... so my send question remains if you need to top out to send this, it doesn't seem to be really part of the route or give it the grade, especially with all the routes to the right? someone find me at örnis and give me feedback plz

this was quite a journey for me. long technical cruxes isn't really my style, spent too many years bouldering, so much to remember.... couldn't do the high knee people use to rest because of a right knee meniscus tear, so making the no-rest beta go in the crux took a LOT of endurance training and everything lining up perfectly... with good weather so I wasn't breathing too hard. crux was never an issue, doing it without rest was... if you downgrade this try it with *only* the rest in the first 3 bolts - and tell me it isn't a soft 7b (been on a number of 7bs now, just not sending much with nagging injuries!). plug it into the grade calculator without rests except at the start ...and with the boulder cruxes... 7b it is :) ...do the rest and maybe it's softer

finally broke through my sending dry spell!used right/short beta going on the positive edges and pinches on the right (spoiler: knee bar possible). definitely reachy and 6c for those not over maybe 175. at 171 I have to really hold something max stretched out. first session I tried this year I felt really strong and had the crux intuitively on the 1st go. 2nd go I slipped, no more tries. tried it a month later and was recovering from a cold and very weak, it felt terrible, didn't go. today it took 3 goes (messed up beta) but I felt strong again. harder than comparable 6b+ like Bröstutställning or Gunde Dopad which have easier moves overall. it is just a tad harder, (mostly because of reachi-ness and needing precise feet/smears/more power endurance) than Brown Sugar (which could easily be 6c), although for the short length arguably an easy 6c. would it get 6c in the US? I really don't know. maybe not.

definitely soft. similar to baby voodoo but less sustained, top out involves more of a mantle/commitment, slightly less positive holds. could even be 5+/V2 (so could baby voodoo), would be in US or Font or etc

2nd-ish real go. first 6C+ so I'm giving it a downgrade after 12 years of being stuck at 6B+ at bigger areas... I think 6A+ is fair

well I was tired from putting quickdraws up on Tabu so I thought "let me try this easy 5. it'll be an easy onsight" ... it's a bit mossy and wet right where you need to bring your feet up, they're not as obvious as they look from the ground. if the moss got a bit more cleaned would be an easier climb, probably a 4. seems like it would be easier if you stick to the arete, but in reality it adds a few more interesting moves. didn't think I would write so much about an easy route but here I am.

feet slipped the first time, it was wet. but a fun problem with good holds!

not sure I used the right feet for this... but repeated it a couple times with different feet

the sit start is quite tricky to get just right

2nd go, oops. felt similar to 6b+ at Sjötorpsberget. top was nice even when it was wet

Finally! tricky to get it all right and together, really had to work this one, knee bar has to be in just the right place (don't trust tick marks that are there!). I give this a half grade higher because the ending to it added onto the start of Red House makes a 7A+... it's in the 6B-6C range

when you finally get the right beta, it is a really nice and aesthetic problem

grade depends how far left you go, alternatively harder further right

if you're not a slab climber it can be a little trickier before the crux than it looks ... definitely spent more time on it than expected!

took me more than a few tries. feels a bit heavier than some 6b+ unless you're much taller. committing for the grade

took many tries but this route is a dream to climb, it demands your focus and is just a fun, fun route, worth all the effort. projecting it taught me so much

tried last year as part of the sit start

would've flashed but grabbed the wrong thing on the top out after many tries of the 6B variant

climbed first on 2016-sep-6, but didn't climb cleanly, came back to send after a few random attempts between the years. currently projecting 7a: think it holds 6b grade because of the start, but possibly just 6a+

really chill route. a bit of a one-move wonder. at 171cm the crux wasn't so hard for me, but I can see why shorter people might find it more challenging!

2nd try. a bit tricky to get right

sent on 2nd try today, a bit disappointed. saw it last year and wanted to give it a go, last move was a bit tricky. have onsighted 6a in the US and I think the last move is arguably 6a+

finally sent after many, many attempts. it has been a long love affair with Hugo, and I'd recommend it to everyone despite the hike. it's a gem

def feels like a 6B mantle, not 6A... southern sandbagging. many days of attempts later ... the right hand is quite tricky

slopers are nice in the cold but some holds can get icy

guessing on the date. it actually took me a couple of goes that day after a previous failure years ago when I wasn't very strong. pumpy, easy to go wrong

quite damp and mossy so took 2 tries to figure it out

if you're not flexible, the sit start is tough

2nd try, almost got it on the first

Would not do again because of the loose rocks. Working around those and avoiding the left side as much as possible (until needed) makes it 6a. Would likely be 5+ if you heavily rely on the left side. Chossy. Nice rest around 7th bolt.

A few balance-y moves, but the jugs in the middle are so solid it will boost your mental game for anything else you want to try in the day! Inspires so much confidence as a route, definitely recommended it; this is the kind of 5 I have always been looking for but never able to find

start is a bit tricky if wet

The real crux seemed to be the last bit to the anchors

Really neat route! Tried it on top rope first a few days prior. There is a long move at the crux (the move from the woodwork to the pockets above, or from a side pull instead of the woodwork) but it had interesting features!

Interesting route with a variety of moves

love this problem although I have been trying to get it for years, so glad I finally did!

this was actually my first outdoor lead fall :S the crux is a bit reachy!!

Seemed harder than Trade to its left, which I led... the traverse to the flake was why I didn't want to.lead it!

Took me forever to get past the crux. If I was a bit taller would have been simple! Easy climbing after the crux which is the only "6" part of the route

holds at the top aren't as positive as they look (especially when colder, it was nicer leading it in the sun than when i top roped it a week before in the wind) this wasn't really a red-point for me, I rested a bit

great warm-up when you are just getting back into sport climbing, or learning how to lead