Ed Westwood

Really fun moves, dyno took a few goes to get right.

A good excuse to do the nice start moves again

A likely candidate for the longest boulder in Umeå. Pumpfest!

Cool! Good holds and nice moves all the way. Send train with Andy, Bear and the Italian Stallion.

It took 3 foot jams to unlock this one. Fun moves!

Fun, but the sit adds some nice moves

Really good!

So many different betas. The struggle was real!

2nd go

Sealed the deal.

Last boulder of the year probably. Goood vibes.

Finally! Went down quick this time with different foot beta. Mint.

Flash after Bitvarg. I thought this was much nicer!

Tricky! Took a while to find some a nice beta

Crimp training

Class!

Spicy

Think this was easier than the right variant

Sslippery ssslopers

Fun! Felt tricky. 32 degrees might have something to do with that.

Best 6A I’ve climbed in some time!

Great roof climbing!

Narrowly missed the flash. Sans cut loose. Tip top!

Drop knee bar was a new one!

Soft, but nice first move.

Ticks nearly all the boxes! Belter.

Class! Bomber foot jam and lovely crimpers made this a delight.

Repeat offender

Nice first move!

Sweaty

Pull and push!

Good mantle practice!

Did sitstart first

Plenty of bang for the buck

Definitely a tad easier this time in the dry. Good stick and great company. No. 50.

Class!

Did twice. First a little to the left but without the main arête. Nice mantle with underclings. 6Cish. After checking topo climbed ‘correct’ way to the right using big sidepull to mantle, felt 6C+/7Aish. Both fun lines, both ate my skin!

Double tick at the end of the evening. First went with the left, then went with the right.

Sheesh

Zero expectations today but went on first try. Get that heel on and squeeze! Mega boulder, Mega day in the sun with Björn and the gang.

For crux went from LH undercling to the good RH sidepull below the jug. Cool! Seal topout.

Got trickier as the start foothold kept moving. As crimpy as it is high!

Sunny send train with Hanna and Carl. Final tick at Gruvan.

Short but sweet.

Sublime

Lovely!

First try today. Lunacy trifecta complete!

Spicy. Found out what happens if you don’t pad big rock on the left… worth the trauma!

Tricky first move

Better than anticipated.

Beaut. Not over until it’s over!

Nice flow, low sit start. Found it tricky to find the right beta.

Pretty cool for a one mover. Svårgraderad.

Different but pretty fun. Leg jam beta.

Dried some holds, slipped off the top. Dried some more holds, sent it. Class!

Fell off the last move too many times before summoning ‘last go’ powers. Weird but in all the right ways.

Nearly all the holds were wet but still fun!

First try but sent the left variant first

According to my 27 and UKC logs, the last time I led anything harder than f6a was in 2011! Stoked to get back on the sharp end and send this beaut on the first redpoint attempt. Class route, suits a boulderer!

Pieds nus sans pad

Inappropriate in many ways

Solo end of summer send. 3rd press today after far too many tries previously. Channeled DB and jumped. Stunning arête, class problem.

Beaut

Sent Rök heroin first

Nice barn door balancy move

Riktigt fin! Plenty of bang for the buck. Two kneebars, crimps, slopers and some bangin’ skravel stick.

One hard move but it’s a good ‘un!

Beaut

Mega! Finally some climbing in cooler weather. Awesome first few moves but good all the way up!

Really nice climbing

Sitstart

Class problem in a nice environment. Packs a lot of climbing in!

Pad pad pad

Only used left arête for hands after the start

Mmmm slippery sunny sloper

Tricky! Fun to find a sequence that works nicely.

After doing the sit

Tall, crimpy, with a little bit of spice

Flash PB. Bump marathon.

Went down nearly as quickly as Kottkrig after figuring out the feet for the first blast. Fun!

Worth 3 stars even though it doesn’t top out. Knees, toes and heels everywhere. Nice tip Veronica 👌🏻

Really fun! Climbed it twice in a row.

Thought this was even nicer than the original!

Heel, heel, then another heel for good measure.

Flashed a version with the jug, then redpointed a version truer to the line in the topo, using crimps to the right of crack. Felt 7Aish.

What a gem! Went on last press of the first day in Västervik. Satisfying is an understatement.

Just amazing, a lovely swim out in warm water. So good I did it twice. Scariest part was pulling on the thin flakes!

Toe jam and a knee bar. Thunder!

So good. Kind holds, toe hooks, heels, compression, big last move to hero jug. Sent moments before a biblical downpour!

Pieds nus

Warm up. Done before.

Wowza

Another magical evening sesh by the sea. Tricky couple of moves but felt solid with dialled beta. Sent and swam!

Good times on good holds. Feels made to be climbed!

Sensational. Probably even better with good friction, of which there was zero tonight. Still, a beaut to climb!

Good finish to a long midsommar weekend.

Superb. Tricky start.

Nice even in summer sun and bad skin, therefore hard to tell the grade, had to giv’er but probs soft!

Mega. Sit looks even better so must come back!

Pretty sure I’ve done this before

Hopped on the midsommar send train. Bomber kneebar if it fits!

Sans hand jam but some really fun moves

Vik heel hook to bat hang beta was sublime. Dabbed once, climbed twice.

Why not?

Big flake has apparently broken off. Probably a bit harder than before.

Unclear starting holds. Started on two lowest small but decent crimps on the face. Climbed nicely. Felt 6Bish.

Dramatic and dynamic! Novel moves on this one. Sent with a thousand mosquitos after ripping a big flapper on first try. Totally worth it.

Traverse train all the way around to the back of the block.

What’s not to like?

Nasty. And I don’t say that often.

Now I understand why this felt harder than a 5.

Pockets, pinches and slopers. Reet good boulder by the sea.

This was decent! Fun with a big cut loose out to lip. Stays spicy until the top out!

Awesome roof climbing. Finished with a coordination dyno!

Last boulder of the day. Proper send train!

Compress, crimp and blast.

2nd try this year. Lovely conds and lovelier company. Ooo what a boulder!

A classic!

Hardest part was finding the right beta. Nice sunny evening with lots of stoked climbers!

Finally haha.

First try but also sent the left version before. Nice variant!

Cruxy first few moves but climbed nicely with some flamingo beta. Unsure on the grade but harder than Goku. Fun!

Many tries on Idefix, settled on this.

Left to right traverse, as God intended.

Pure class. Many moves on good holds, 3D style. Tree just made more interesting beta!

Ouchy

End of the day, too much cut loose!

First move is a beaut!

Best 5 I can remember climbing. Bunny is a little creepy.

Fingers nearly got left behind in the jug. A fun problem nevertheless.

Better than expected.