Gareth Gear

Ard for the grade!

Finishing up Happy Days feels like 7b+

Did from sidepull and slot, harder from sitter. Next time.

2ND go.

Soft

Soft

To the start of the Ramp.

Took a ton of goes until worked out the best beta. Supposedly harder than 7C since the loss of a foothold. Not very good at grading though so don't ask me!

Nails for 7a+

Did without any of the flake side wall and went to the pocket with left hand before the top jug. Deffo feels harder (and better) this way.

Also class. Second go from start.

Class

Sweet little hidden bloc. Go check it out!

Left me feeling Long, hard and pumpy! The problem is pretty damn hard too!

Couldn't get the first move like other peeps so instead came out right a little and managed to shuffle up with some techy heel and shoulder pressing moves.

Cool toe hook moves

Not 'easy' for the short! Had to use some crazy beta to get this done, involving starting off the big side pull thing just above the undercut with right hand (a little high I know), undercut in left, roll/pop up to the bottom of rh crimp with lh and then match the top of it with rh via an awful little finger guppy hook thing! Ouch!

It's much harder for the the wee shorties and felt more like original grading of 7c for me.

Soft

Didn't do the top out due to green, scrittly, slimy death and no spotter, but did the hard bit any ways!

3rd go.

Stand start.

Right hand crimp has been repaired and still has a little wobble in it! Great problem.

Did this whilst it was raining but thankfully the bottom half was dry. The top however was soaked...thank god for the jugs at the top! Hard start for my size (5.6/7") so I'd even say 7c.

Some say maybe even 7b? Not sure, but hopefully more traffic will give a better idea. I suck at grading. Awesome problem right next to the road and well worth seeking out!

Bit of a dispute as to what problem this is. Did as it is said in guidebook which is basically a low start to Dolphin Nose on the low shelf. Adds a few extra moves onto the direct.

Took a long time to work out!

Class. 2 dedicated sessions after also working the end on Houdini. Gets harder the more you move across. Excellent climb and once again another great overlooked problem at Woodhouse.

E4 6a.

E1 5b. Awkward.

E2 5c. Incredible

2nd RP

2nd RP

Finished up one of the jokers wall problems before the crack. Had to campus through the pockets but unsure if the grade. Dunning guidebook gives it 7c+/8a...ha!

Top class.

Hmm again not too sure about the start to this. Started spanned out with RH on far left of good ramp and LH on the left hand side of the prow. Lots of slapping then get to where the stand starts. Not tall enough to reach the back with my height surely??? Excellent nonetheless.

As with quite a few lines at woodwell I'm not entirely sure I always get the right line. The way I did this is the same as some vids I've seen but hey ho it felt about 7a+.

Only took 1 short session, but in fairness it's an eliminate of some existing problems that I have already done. Despite it being eliminate it doesn't feel like it at all and in fact climbs a very direct line with some great moves. Another great addition to the scar.

Brilliant. Almost every move is great which is surprising for something of this grade. Very sparsely bolted however and a drop from the third clip would be a deck out!

VS 4c

E1 5b

VS 4c

HVS 5a

E1 5b. Solo.

Grabbed the draw...What!? I'm small!

Absolutely first class boulder. Has so much to it from monster foot breaking locks and gruelling fist jams to high heels and sharp crimps. Loved it.

E2 5c. Need to go back and do it clean without all that major flailing!

E2 5b

VS 4c

E1 5b

VS 4b

E2 5c. Soooo pumped! Fell off like 3 times placing all that gear!

Very nice. Peak bouldering say hard for the grade but wouldn't necessarily agree.

Felt a more natural line than Gorilla Warfare.

10 mins.

2nd go.

Hard for the grade.

3rd go and first proper 7a.

Cool line! Feels like you could be high up on perfect Yosemite granite but instead are in a dark, damp green pit in the peaks.

Didn't feel like a good line until it was sussed and sent. Then it felt excellent.

Second go.

Hard ass top out. Went back a few days later to do the start proper having thought I couldn't reach the starting holds and a hold had completely disappeared! Not sure whether it was chipped or broke off by accident but would probably say the latter. Didn't really make it much more difficult.

Did the direct which I believe goes at 7a.

Top move almost broke my wrists!

Did both versions, and without the big scoop at the pocket I'd say 7a+

Not the most inspiring to look at but the moves are fantastic!

Felt hard for me. Especially since I was doing it wrong for a long time.

Only a few moves but quite satisfying, kinda like a 'board' problem. Think maybe the original undercut starting holds have broken off?

Felt much easier than the actual Anchor. 3 goes. Really nice problem.

Nice looking line on the far right edge of Scout Crag, Widdop. Traverse left to finish up the arete.

A climb that is much better than it first appears. Tricky final sequence to gain the top and great solid, rough rock. Can't imagine it gets done very often.

On Red Wall at Trowbarrow. It's not clear where this problem goes but I think I went even further for the last move meaning it might be slightly different/harder.

Short but stiff moves.

Started from stand which I heard was how it was originally done. Still felt like 7b for me but might be because of my height or even the conditions which were starting to the make a few of the holds quite damp. Brilliant problem. First 'hard' problem I have done on limestone. Still getting used to it but pysched to get back and try more!

A slight eliminate of The Sheriff. No crack allowed. Makes for both a better and harder problem than The Sheriff.

Great low roof at the far end of Woodhosue Scar. Felt about 7B to me although some may find it easier but being smaller it was a lot more difficult keeping my feet jammed in the block at the back. Great problem with a lot of eliminates recently put up that are pretty hard.

E2 6B on UKC. Excellent route starting from the sit with a great variety of moves and a good sense of exposure. One of, if not the best tick at Woodhouse.

Bit unclear as where to start. I started as faaaar back under the hanging block as I could.

The groove of Energy Follows Thought plus the arete.

Ball Ache to find. In fact the whole of the Rocky Valley is one big ball ache to walk around. However, great problem, worth seeking out.

Awesome! A great modern day classic however it already feels polished/smooth and the big "ring" has eventually broken off. Doesn't make a massive amount of difference for my sequence but for some I imagine it will make it more difficult. Get on it...but treat with care

Highball

Highball

Nice moves using a funky toe hook.

Found this really stiff for 7B. Maybe it was me being tired or hungover or maybe the heat! Either way I spent agggeess working out the sequence then trashed all my skin eventually sending this problem. Really good with excellent moves (was really strange having my legs get so tired after so much heel hooking) but after sending it I felt so much more relief than enjoyment. Kind of wasted a whole day ruining my self doing this after realising I wanted to get a ton of mileage in.

Good line up the obvious fridge sized block next to Concave wall. Start sitting to the bottom right of the block with two hand on the good edges next to each other (blocks to either sides not in). Feels like a problem that might be easier for the short. On UKC gets 7c, I didn't feel it was this hard but this could be because of my height. Nice problem, porbably the best at Blackstone but have'nt explored it fully yet.

No idea what this wall is called but it must have been done before so I just named it Trigpoint Wall as it's right underneath it. Good wall climbing up the decent sized slab. Started almost sitting at the bottom right of the slab.

One move wonder.

As the name suggests this is meant to be a dyno. I didn't know this until I had done it by using tiny sharp pebble and a half decent hold for my right hand. Definitley felt harder this way for the short than I imagine the dyno is!

Wowie! Definitley found this stiff for 6c. Being small it felt like a very commiting move to get the top by jamming your foot deep into the break...and then the topout...jeezo! Not the most gracious of mantels I'll be honest.

The hanging flake on the arete to the right of Black Dog Arete. Think it's called Flake Ache on Yorkshire grit.

The direct version to The Ripple Effect. Starting with right hand on little undercut crimp and left hand on the sloping lip just left of right hand. A very poor description of this climb is given in the recent Yorkshire Grit Bouldering Guide and does'nt really do the problem justice.

Short but good climbing on a block just behind Black Chipper Arete at Brimham. Found this quite easy being small as I can use both feet, where as taller people have to use one rather insecure right foot to make most of the moves.

3rd go maybe? Very nice climbing with a little tricky mantle at the end. Gets quite green and a lot of seepage however so best done after it has been dry for a while.

Starting to wear away. After speaking to Dave Cowl about this problem it sounds like it has changed a lot since the FA.

Would like to go back and try do it climbing more up the centre of the face instead of the way I did it originally which was more on the arete and round the right hand side. I did it exactly the same as on the Boreal video "variation".

2nd go. Felt like a much better problem than Marks Roof imho.

Very happy with this as I did it quickly despite it being reachy and I was being rained on and chewed to bits by midges!

Dirty but still nice climbing.

Didn't look like this problem had been done in tiimmee! Had to have a good clean of it but it was still damp and sandy.

Wow! I thought this one was going to be an easy little 7a to do before moving onto the harder stuff...about 2 and a half hours later after having to siege the hell out of it I thought otherwise. Couldn't manage to lock the move from the crimp to the lip so had to go from the little bobble type thing with my right then do a much bigger move with my left to the lip. Quality problem despite the chips.

An excellent extra start to an already excellent problem. Probably my favourite problem in Yorkshire to date! Wouldn't say that the extra moves at the beginning make it 7B but hey thats what it says.

Didn't top all the way around the arete. Twas most wet, minging, high and the "rockover" foothold is really rather worn and sandy. Excuses I know but a fantastic problem nonetheless.

Quality. Tried the 7c version further back but it felt totally nuts!

Felt steady for 7a, have to try the assis then.

First 7b in the forest. Very nice problem with lots going on.

Top move feels hard as nails until it's done just right. Frustrating to work out

Brilliant Problem. Bit reachy at the start and as a result recieved major gritrash!

Awesome! Didn't feel at my limit and after two sessions it went down pretty easy. Changed my beta to use the crafty heal hook and it felt solid. Quality problem. First 7B.

Hard at bottom.....very high at the top. Gripping..literally

Meh

Found it difficult to get from the crimps to the slopey top being not very tall. But did it eventually. Small and slight, but satisfying.

Fonty...

Wish it was longer!

Phat! Such a great problem. Possibly the hardest I have ever worked a problem in Font, but well worth it.

First go. No worries...just do the salmon flop

Brillant! However, it didn't feel really that high or scary.

Not much too this really.

Nice problem. Feels far far easier in the cold!

Second time of doing it felt better.

Another quality 95.2 bloc. Great thuggy/huggy moves on great rock. I'd say it's worth way more than 1 and half stars, but maybe i just love Font a little too much...

Very good arete. Committing last move but the fall is safe if the mats are placed correctly.

Classic problem.

Good

First 7a in Britain. Very very good line, took me aggggeeesss to work out.

Always enjoy this problem. Maybe not 7a though.

Felt nails for ages! But then when did it felt fine. Beefy as Boeuf.

No way is this a classic or anywhere near as good as some of the other problems at the Kebs. It doesn't even feel that high to warrant a grade of E3 in Yorkshire Grit!

First 7a in Font.