Chase Miller

Got humbled on this before I went to kneebar school last year. Absolutely smashed it today. 6c+\7a

Really nice warmup with a mix of jugs, optional knee-bars and crimps

Let my guard down too early, crux was at the top and hard to read. Easy to get lost.

Totally contrived squeeze-job between the routes around it. A hard boulder at the top with awkward clipping holds and anchors placed too high makes this route undesirable.

Mindless scrambling to 4 engaging moves then you’re at anchors. Pretty underwhelming.

Very much an alpine route. The bottom sucks and is super sharp. It gets interesting when you get to the corner but everything is a bit suspect and you’ll find yourself climbing rather carefully.

Finally a proper 7a, might be the first once I haven’t downgraded this whole trip. Actual sporty bolting on this one, nice and committing.

Polished to absolute oblivion. Not even fun.

Damn hard, got more gripped on this than Red Sea.

Weird crux

Soooo slippery

Nice moves, flowy

Really nice.

Really nice one! Someone please get the stupid quicklink off the stemming section before it rusts shut. Last bolt placement required a sling to be in line with the rest of the route.

Really nice one. Juuuuugs

Epic jug-bashing with a slab problem! Very cool, and easy on my skin.

Kept me thinking the whole way. Not the most classic movement but interesting at least

Engaging and sharp

First part is a little more engaging but the second pitch is excellent in its own right, albeit much easier. Together they are still only 6b+. The second part is only 6b.

Some ok parts but kind of sharp and boring tbh. Also this thing is MAYBE 30m tops

Felt more benchmark 6c+….its 6a/+ climbing until the last 3 bolts then you’re still on good edges, just pumpy with more footwork.

Lovely extension on rock that isn’t as sharp as you would think, except for the first set of moves past the first anchor. 2nd go, after trying last week and leaving draws. Not as difficult as other 7b+ lines on the island. Gets 7b in the guidebook and I concur with that rating.

Super funky. Lots of choss. Meh.

Pretty easy. Only one funky move to sequence at the top.

Felt more benchmark 6c+….its 6a/+ climbing until the last 3 bolts then you’re still on good edges, just pumpy with more footwork.

Benchmark 6b+…honestly so many places I grabbed the holds wrong. Not as straightforward as it looks. Felt a little awkward.

Lovely

Average

One reachy move and that’s it

Nice one!

The name is “Season of the Witch.” Absolute garbage. Avoid.

Soft.

Another 7b flash that isn’t 7b…makes 3 this week

Lovely one, crux comes fairly early then it’s perfect tufa surfing to the anchor. Might be easier if you’re tall…felt 6c+ to me

Really nice, but suuuuuper thin tufa at the top that feels a little sketch to crimp on

Fell yesterday right at the top, like most people. What a bastard of a crux. First try today. Felt soft so I was going to downgrade but then today struggled super hard on the tufa bit in the middle so 7b it is

Doesn’t warm up the arms at all. The entire grade is at the top.

That final move is absolutely desperate. Taking the points for this one. I know it’s soft but I don’t care I’m proud of the flash. There are harder 7a’s on the island for sure.

Too knackered to properly enjoy this one…fought from the bottom all the way up. Marbled feet, sweaty hands, and the sun makes for a hard 7a. Kneebar hole was not as restful as I had hoped and it’s still possible to blow it getting past the last clip if you have tunnel vision. Consistently powerful climbing

True onsighting…no chalk in sight! Felt more like 7a when I repeatedly did the wrong sequences. Barely pulled it out before the pump set in. After reviewing the holds they are all there but the grade definitely comes from knowing the beta or reading it uh…well.

A bit sharp but actually a lovely warmup. Some hollow rock at the top.

Headlamp climb! Top is pretty funky climbing. Maybe a little soft.

The line feels a bit contrived until it gets past the hole. Then you hit the crux and it’s a beautiful sequence to the anchors. Do the extension! It’s really nice.

REALLY sharp slab with a mini crux gets you to a full rest before a VERY height-dependent crux. I’m 193 cm and I could JUST span the move at the 6c grade. It’s definitively harder for anyone shorter than 190 I would think. My 8a-strong friend could not do the move. Unfortunately the cave left where you get bigger jugs is covered in bird shit. You can skip all the shit-covered holds using the first LH crimp on the edge of the cave then bumping up to the rectangular orange block. Cool overhanging climbing gets you to the top.

Decent slab start then choss and sharp rock. Meh.

Only 7a till the final moves and clipping anchors….still probably only 7a with good beta (a decent RH above the anchor for clipping, not the shit LH crimp)

Nice one…beautiful boulder problem at the top. 6c/+

Kind of bland

The crux was kinda cool, kinda meh…

2nd try. What a heartbreaker right at the top. Those crimps were too brutal for me…if you’re tall just huck for the jug out left.

Nice one!

Nice one! Felt right on par for 6c, IF you read the sequence correctly. Tricky!

2nd go. Might be the most polished line I’ve been on in Kaly, yikes. Probably was more 7a+ 20 years ago with texture but feels closer to 7b+ now. Low crux at bolt 4 was harder for me than the top.

The start is incredibly hard and awkward. Gets 6c+ from me just from this section. The rest of the route is great. The route trends right at the final roof and this is another cruxy bit, but you can also go left and run it out a bit to the closer anchors above you if you want an easier finish and less-obnoxious cleaning job

Incredible climb. Might be the best warmup on the wall.

Maybe a little soft, but the holds felt absolutely awful near the top. Great crimps but super greasy. Lots of footwork to keep balance.

A little more awkward and greasy that it looks.

Really nice climbing. Unfortunately one drilled pocket on the face, and at both technical cruxes near the top you can skirt to the right and avoid them entirely. Going direct is definitely 6c+. The grade is much lower if you escape too far right at the last 2 bolts.

2 BD #1’s for the crack, otherwise big runout to the final bolt. Anchors are in horrible shape and wiggle. Top is covered in bird shit. Avoid this one.

Wonderful stemming warmup! Flowy

Climbs just like the Obed! Fantastic 3D moves. You could also easily finish on the anchor to the left before the final rightward traverse, but in that case it would probably only be around 6b since the hardest moves are in the final traverse.

Actually a really nice climb despite how it looks. If you’re trying to climb in the sun, this route has the best texture on the wall for warming up. Interesting and engaging sequences the entire way.

Absolute hero jug-pulling through a steep roof. Doesn’t get much better than this. A few cheeky right kneebars might help you rest before the hardest sequence.

Really nice one on jugssss

Topo on this is reversed. The 6c/+ is the left route up the flake, the 7b+ goes up the crack to the right. Lost the OS picking the wrong path. Opted to clean on TR for a full send to save time.

Really mucked up the headwall going to far left, but managed to save it

More overhung than the one to the right but bigger holds. Fun.

Cruisey full of pockets, nice and gentle warmup

Kind of annoying this doesn’t go all the way up the crack, it would be a way better finish.

Absolute chosspile. Friable rock and a dangerous 3rd pitch runout with a decking ledge. Tourists below in the rockfall zone.

Nice one! Warm-down, kind of pumpy on the face above. Crux is pretty interesting, you never really feel balanced or secure doing the move no matter what position you get.

A low crux and a high crux, both super unique. Upper crux is one of the most aesthetic sequences I’ve done this year. Amazing. All the slopers are just a ~little more slippery than you would like…

Pretty much just a battle of beef, with technical kneebar rests to divide the hardest sequences. Getting off the ground is the crux. Unfortunately there are a few holds that have been reinforced with cement.

Pretty nice climbing overall but definitely some shit rock in the middle…somehow not chossy? Epic crux pulls up the roof and heady finish

Epic, but soft for 6c.

The grade is pretty-much a one-move-wonder in the last part of the crack, but overall an epic climb. Bring the ringlock skills! Watch out for the pigeons that like to jump-scare you near the top.

Somehow, even better than the first pitch. By itself it’s probably easier than L1, but combined it’s definitely still 6b+ with some good rests. Absolutely classic climbing including a full foot-jamming flake and a slab crux.

Amazing crimp line. Harder side of 6b+. Must-do. Don’t miss out on the second pitch, it’s even better (and a little easier)

Rad AF. First climb in Tenerife. Epic last move.

Got the TRash. Sick line

Terrible warmup with piss-poor feet

Solid for the grade. Really polished feet. A few spots where getting out of sequence would spit you off

Solid 7b+. Thought this was going to be a day project and it wound up taking me 3 sessions. Nice power-endurance movement requiring lots of concentration.

Hard start. Did the one to the left as well, even harder with hidden pockets.

lol, blew the OS forgetting draws. As my friend said…it’s not a reflection of your abilities, just an overlook of logistics. New quote of the trip.

Got kind of lost in the middle surmounting the ledge

Nice! Harder at the bottom then super fun

Tricky dihedral to bomber pockets on the headwall. Fun.

Rock looks like crap but this rig climbs beautifully. What a dance. Don’t miss this one. The climb goes right, around the arete. Idk what those bolts are going left.

Hard for the grade. Initial bulge was very tough, and the final headwall was on you the entire way. Pretty interesting moves, but nowhere near as good as some of the other area classics.

Really nice warmup. Final overhang is fun

Amazing! Keep the butthole tight for the runout slab ;)

Nice movement, hard to read. Spicy for the grade

Climbs a lot better than it looks! 6 bolts

Everything I wanted it to be. So so good.

Wonderful

Big holds almost the whole way. Slab is pretty committing, and hard to see the holds if the sun is on it. Soft.

Fingery. First route in Margalef. Felt harder than the 6c Setareh.

Big holds, epic views, decent exposure. Classic.

6b/+. Epic climb to do at sunset.

Thoughtful. Top it out for epic views

Dope on a rope

Lovely first climb in Rodellar. Crux is easier if you’re tall.

Bouldery little bastard. Felt harder than Sway, but overall less moves.

Bruh that shit was no joke, especially the lower crux. My left arm was totally blasted by the time I clipped anchors. Felt more 7b to me but I did this after redpointing Andromeda which is also heavy on the left arm. Definitely a Tennessee 7a+, and maybe the only benchmark one I’ve done here. Full-value even with the polish. Stoked to do this after starting the Berserk manga/anime last week.

4th session, 4th go overall. First serious attempt I guess that wasn’t an intended beta burn. I gave myself a 70% chance of doing it perfectly today (with no idea how far I would get even doing so) and the conditions couldn’t have been better. Second 5.13, 7 days after sending Fun de Chichunne. Honestly on the send this did wind up feeling on the soft side with all the kneebars, but still way harder than the other 7c’s I’ve done here and elsewhere in the Balkans.

Bring some fresh skin for this one. Spicy

Tricky near the top

Epic! Watch out for some choss in the final underclings moving into the headwall above. The cave felt a little manky today even with a good wind.

Way better than it looks.

Really strange moves.

Holds were natural, but super sharp. Subpar at best.

1000 stars. 2nd go!!! Did all the moves 3 weeks ago fairly easily, but I’m still in total shock given that I needed 2 days of rest after my first burn. Even though this would probably be a 7c/+ in other Balkan countries like Romania or Serbia…I’m taking the points since I fought for my life and it’s my first 5.13. Probably was on route for over an hour and almost blew off multiple times. I don think I can climb something that is more my style than this. None of the moves are harder than V3/4. It’s just an absolute monster.

Super slippery, but super good. I wish this route could be reset to new texture because it would be even more fun!

One of the best climbs I ever done did

2/3rd’s of this route is just pointless scrambling. The last part is where it gets good with interesting moves.

Let’s goooooo!!

A little more technical than expected. Nice holds, good movement.

Some good luck with perfectly dry conditions gave me a 3rd go send. This felt every bit of 7c until I put it all together with good condies and precision beta…then it felt 7b+. Maybe only 7b to the final bolt. Quite a bit easier than Nefs. Don’t try this unless the wall is bone-dry with a breeze, or you’re just super strong and don’t care about slippery crux holds on wet days.

One of the best in the Datça. Incredible. Wait for a dry conditions day…friction is your friend.

My first go may have well of been a masterclass in misreading tufas: chuffing of absolutely epic proportions. Second go today was pretty low-effort with dialed beta…maybe even a tad soft for the grade.

2nd go…yee-haw. One of the best climbs I’ve done in the 9 months of my European adventure. Absolutely epic, and definitely soft ^_^

Decent warmup, nothing special

Pretty sharp and chossy. Better just to skip this and warm up on the classic 6’s. No stars

Barely above average at best. The climbing below the tufa is technical but not very fun, then the tufa climbing itself is somewhat interesting but nothing special, and the moves are a bit awkward. Still a little chossy and it feels like some of the better holds will break off eventually. You have to try pretty hard not to use the left tufa system in a few spots. Feels like a weird eliminate. The 7a/+ to the left is literally 10x better.

What a hoot!! All jugs on amazing textured tufas (and a couple non-essential right kneebars) to basically just one hard move exiting to the orange rock above. The runout to the anchors is mild and the holds are great. One of the best I’ve done in a while.

Can’t seem to make this 7a. Idk what I’m doing wrong

Uber-classic. I totally mucked up the stemming section making it significantly harder than it should’ve been. The ending is downright epic

A beautiful buffet of different climbing styles…the perfect warmup. Felt maybe a little soft but someone without endurance or multidisciplinary technique may find it quite hard.

This felt harder than a lot of 7b’s I’ve tried. Really garbage polished holds and super awkward moves. Probably my ugliest send maybe ever. 3rd 7 of the day. No stars

Super glad I got this first try this morning after taking at the crux 3 days ago out of fear. Multiple no-hands rests after the first anchor, then some pretty committing moves between big holds. The last 2 bolts are the crux, when the dihedral gets thinner and the feet basically disappear. Try not to barn-door off into the void. Absolutely epic finish over the bulge. One of those routes that makes you feel really accomplished after sending. Overall the moves felt no harder than 6c+ but the exposure/commitment factor alone made this feel full-value for 7a+

Pleasant climbing with a super defined crux on imaginary holds. Thankfully the feet are workable. I seriously don’t know how I held on to those holds

Absolutely rad! There’s multiple solutions to the crux but going right is waaaay more classic and fun.

Lovely climbing on water runnels, marbled tufas, and a few pockets for good measure.

Fun tufa climbing to one really terrible 7a-level move off polished smeary feet then one more reach to the anchor-clipping jug. Not a great warmup.

One-move wonder off a polished pocket. Pleasant climbing before and after

Really nice!!

Spicy for the grade. Closer to 7a.

Felt hard for the grade first try but with good beta I turned it into a chill one-move wonder. I’m really tall and my short friend used the same beta so I think it goes at the grade this way. But the 2 other betas we found were significantly harder. Not an easy onsight, and very bouldery.

Really cool moves, but weird slippery/smooth rock. Also tried the extension moves, I don’t think it’s anywhere close to 7c+ though…

Nice!

Pleasant moves, even with bad conditions.

Crux is pretty straight-forward, maybe reachy?

V6 boulder problem with multiple solutions into an absolute ass-blaster 5.12a roof. This climb suited me VERY well so I’ve spent days debating the grade…and I also already knew the ending beta (including a lot of kneebar rests) from working Cicala so that part didn’t feel as hard already sort of knowing the moves and just dialing them in on the first burn. I’m very tempted to downgrade this since I sent 2nd try and this is my current project/redpoint grade but given the mixture of disciplines required for this route I don’t know what to think…I’m getting some major imposter syndrome here. I just don’t have enough 7+ sends under me to know the line very well between 7b+ and 7c.

One hard move over the bulge.

The amount of joy I experienced on this route was equivalent to sitting at the DMV. Wanted to try the extension but the sheer thought of having to climb the bottom half again made me change my mind. Zero stars

Felt pumpy today. Didn’t get into the rests very well. Last time it felt 6c+, definitely felt 7a+ today with bad beta

Yee-haw

More footwork, more energy, more passion

There is one pretty reachy move in the middle followed by a bomber stemming rest, with a couple more hard pulls on edges throughout the upper half, with only one bad sloping crimp on the entire route. It turns on at the end with one final punch to the anchors: navigating overhanging crimps and some wicked exposure to boot.

One hard move standing up from some underclings with high feet.

Crux was a little harder and more overhung than I thought it would be. 4-move wonder surrounded by 5.9 climbing

Crux move feels 7b but it’s surrounded by 7a climbing so the grade feels fair…for tall people. Probably a lot harder for shorties. 2nd try.

Crux was actually after the move off the tufa, getting some undercling and getting feet up. 6c/+

2nd try. With Danny. Start was very confusing until we found the jug rail hidden in the grungy tufa, which required a lot of cleaning. Hardest move is right off the deck, with lots of kneebars and toe cams the rest of the way. Candidate for shortest route I’ve ever done. Basically a V5 boulder.

Juuuugs!

Nice! Finish is a little annoying having to finish on the left route’s holds then traversing back right. Cool moves though on great texture

Meh.

Abysmal technique on my part, 7a+ personally. Not as classic as I would’ve liked it to be

3 sessions, 1st go today. Incredible line without any real rests. A true test of foot technique and power endurance. Harder than Triagalnikat.

If I bolted this route I would’ve named it Morning Sec because it’s THAT good… Soft-ish 5.11a if you have good technique. 26 meters to the chains

Yeesh, what a humility sandwich. Took me quite a few tries to sort the correct and very specific foot and hand sequences to make this feel anything below 7a. Maybe before the polish this thing was 6c but it’s solid 6c+ now. That finish move is no joke.

6a face climbing till you get to the roof with underclings. Getting established on the tufa above is the crux with poor feet for a second, then the holds get better and you just gotta hang the fuck on till the chains! A small runout to the anchors just for added spice of life. Extend bolt 6 for rope drag. It’s too bad the route doesn’t have a lower set of anchors before the roof; this would be the best warmup in the cave.

A little soft for 12c but I’ll take it. My first run kicked my ass. 2nd go on TR…happy enough with that. Crux hands and feet polished to oblivion.

Really pleasant warmup. Is it an all-time classic? No. But it’s fun and the finish is dope. All jugs!

Amazingly-fun climbing. First half is really chill on jugs. Turns up on the second half with a mild overhang and perfect edges. No hard moves, just pumpy. Heads up for the bees nest out left about halfway up. As of today there were very few, and quite docile.

Incredible.

Some of the most retarded bolting I’ve ever seen. Dangerously runout in the hardest section then you have 3 bolts less than a foot from each other right below the chains. Wtf?

Pretty hard for the grade. Polished to oblivion and runout. Didn’t feel like a good warmup. The moves between clips are fine and secure but getting to anchors can be tricky if you don’t see the holds at first.

This thing is wild. Dope (somewhat dirty) slab moves with a committing runout and big moves on the last low-angle section. The finish is frickin’ awesome on overhung, perfectly-textured tufas.

Very polished at the start, where none of the holds are what you think. Then it gets REALLY good. Reminded me of Tieranny wall at the Obed near the top. Spicy runouts on technical flake-pulling. A little bit of everything!

Polished feet up the grade on this quite a bit. A few technical mantle moves, and a hard direct finish with an optional easier left finish.

10c start then 10b to the top, assuming you stay left on the flake. If you go direct on the bolt line it’s about 7b through the middle bit.

Nice line! Polish doesn’t affect the climbing on this one much. The crux is quite hard on pockets but once you get the correct feet you just cruise through it. Probably 10c for shorter people.

Amazing line with great texture. Spicy runout after the tufa section but it’s on huge jugs and the fall is safe. Knee pads are essential to keep the pump at bay.

Almost as pumpy as the harder route to its left, and way less fun. Awkward holds, awkward moves.

Greasy but fun. Every time you think it’s going to get harder it gets easier

Nice. Works the feet more than the fingers. Nothing to write home about.

Flash

Really nice holds and movement; on the softer side of 7a but a perfect entry for the grade. Felt nice even when other routes were wet.

11a move between bolts 3 and 4. Chill to the top. Fun! A little dirty. The crux pocket stays wet after rain.

The polished feet at the start makes this feel harder than it is. The rest of the climb is beautiful and the top is fun as hell. Take a victory whip!

I thoroughly enjoyed this climb. The nuts are showing signs of age but the hangers are all in good shape. Nothing to worry about yet. Some polish down low but amazing texture past the hole.

Really nice jugs

Not quite as classic as Delta but still really good. Really turns on halfway and doesn’t let up until the chains. Felt pretty hard for 11a, blew the OS at the last sloper.

Beautiful climb. All the stars.

THIS is what I came to Arco for. Incredible. Felt pretty stiff for 11a, maybe more 11b/c.

Warm-down. Kind of dirty but it’s still better than being at work.

The business is at the top!

Awesome rock. A coupe wiggly chockstones but they are well-identified with chalk marks.

A 5.7 sandwich with 5.10a/b roast beef. A little bit of choss, but the crux moves are interesting.

Really good.

Nice! The crux is on some hollow-sounding flakes but nothing budged. Pretty cool moves.

Really nice climbing. Loved the roof moves and the finish.

Amazing route, quality finish.

So so so polished. Probably was really fun 15 years ago. Super scary runouts on polished slopers now. Have you friend with the biggest balls/ovaries put it up for you. Moves are rad but scary

A touch harder than Zlu, and a more committing crux sequence. Really nice, even with the polish.

The perfect warmup with a little bit of everything. Amazing finish

Great warmup, just a bit harder than the one to the right. The top is fun and getting to anchors is the crux.

5.9/10a start to 5.7 jugs. The only route I’ve enjoyed in my first 3 days at Arco. Where the hell are all the jugs you people are addicted to torture and pulley injuries

What a piece of shit route. Save your energy for something else. Tweaky and awful, it’s literally sandbagged an entire number grade.

Polished and sandbagged.

Polished.

This route on its own without the roof pull is solid 7b. It is nowhere close to 6b. The crux move is very hard and you get an ok rest before the final pumpy section. This climbed so much better than Thorn. Flash send on TR after hanging draws and brushing holds on the way down. Techy, decent holds and good slopers, with some power endurance required.

Warms up your calves and mind, that’s about it. A couple long runners are useful for drag

Aptly described, this route was a thorn in my side. Idk why it’s rated so highly, the start is garbage and the crux is this awkward thin traverse on nothing holds. The final moves are super heady (but well-protected) Insecure and fingery. Sent on TR after initial hangdog putting up draws. If you can’t tell I obviously do not enjoy this style of climbing. Also, sandbagged as hell.

A true challenge for a master of all disciplines. 3 very unique crux sequences separated by no-hands rests. You need them though, because holy shit they are each demanding in their own way. Honestly it even felt hard for 7a, and each of us had a different opinion on which crux was the most difficult.

Very nice bouldery crux with a quality finish slab on positive edges. Easier to read than Dvotaktol. Remember your kung fu!

A fun little crack traverse. Also a great way to set up some draws on the first crux and roof of Prikazna.

An absolute beef sandwich. My 3rd and hardest 7c so far. 3 sessions, 4 tries total. Blew it at the last bolt twice. Pulling over the lip is a mütherfucker. It ain’t over till it’s over boi!

Grade is all in the mini-roof crux. Seems impossible at first until you unveil the hidden sequence. Really really nice crux moves. Harder for the short. Hang a long draw on the first bolt above the roof so you can clip from underneath. You won’t be able to clip in the middle of the crux and it’s run out to the next one.

Not bad! A little dirty but quite nice movement, a little more demanding than it appears. The belay ledge sucks ass.

Harder than the one to the right by a good margin. Tough onsight crux down low, way more chill at the top.

Lovely route. Looks shit, climbs great. Crux is low. significantly easier than the “warmups” on the other side of the cave. If those are 10c and 10d, this is maybe 10a.

Badass route. The crux is short-lived, only a couple moves pulling through the roof. The direct roof like is definitely 11b, but there’s an obvious way to skip the crux and skirt way right around the roof. This method felt around 10a/b according to my partner.

A little bit more of a jug haul compared to the left one. Probably better to do this one first then the other for a warmup sequence

Woof, talk about a pumpy warmup. The top is not an area you can hang out on to figure it out for very long. Core-intensive and awesome. I wish it were longer. Fancy footwork definitely required

3 sessions total, first try today. Probably my hardest technical send. 3 distinct crux sections with the boulder off the deck being the hardest by far. Middle section requires some committing dead points and the final section is technical slab. Amazing line.

Basically just a bunch of 5.7 ledge-mantling with one or two 5.8 moves.

The most-fun out of the 4 routes on the right side of the wall.

Really nice actually. A challenging onsight since a lot of the key holds are sort of hidden. Being taller helps. It felt about 5.10a/b to me at 6’4”.

Pretty hard for the grade. The start is tricky to navigate and the final moves are also a bit demanding if you don’t read them well.

Nice lay-backing on a flake, ending with a crimpy traverse.

Really nice climbing reminiscent of Ten Sleep, WY. Perfect moves on compact rock with bomber pockets. Start on a power-endurance flake down low with a more technical sequence towards the top after a good rest in the middle. One of my favorite warmups in Montenegro.

Hard and tricky to read. Really small holds requiring a lot of balance and technique.

Lower crux is all core tension and easy to lose all your energy here. The upper crux is VERY hard to read, it took me a long time to figure out the beta with lots of falls. It’s a weird one because if you fall there you have a hard time remembering your same beta again, lots of footwork needed. Then getting to anchors it is still very difficult with one bad hold and some balance moves right when you are super pumped. 3 tries total to get clean, no interest in leading this one…not my style.

This rig is a total blast. If you can power through the intro without too much effort then it’s actually a great warmup. Anchor is only one bolt.

2nd try. What a banger of a route. This climb was perfectly my style and I am 193cm so my long reach helped a lot. However I agree with Ilijia i think this will probably get downgraded, maybe even to 7b over time. I’ve climbed harder 7a+ routes in other countries. If you climb 7a+ give this route a try you might be surprised. You can literally hang all the draws with a stick clip lol

Pile of choss. Don’t bother. Negative stars.

Definitely awkward and hard now that the crux hold is missing. Not a great warmup.

The move at the last bolt almost spit me off…it is a blind reach around the tufa to a small hold. This whole climb is bouldery and fun. Benchmark 11a

Really good. Pumpy route with a few creative rest stances. Epic finish move that will pucker yer butthole

Best warmup on this wall. 5.10a/b.

Pumpy! Would be a hard warmup. Clipping anchors was hard

Harder than I thought it would be. Really fun powerful moves, with a heartbreaker at the chains.

Really nice warmup. The best of this area. Still a small amount of choss, I pulled off a baseball-sized block at the first overhang bit.

Dirty, wandery, and hard to read. The holds past the tufa section are very sharp but good

Amazingly technical route up rock that looks bad but is great. Hardest move is pulling past the flake around bolt 3 or 4, then a few technical cruxes on smaller crimps with stemming. Feels exposed and awesome! The top is overgrown and a little dirty but with big holds. With more traffic this route will be really popular. You need at least a 70m.

Lol this was a hard warmup. Not pumpy but some committing moves on a small overhang.

One of those routes that looks like crap from the ground but climbs so so goooood. Somehow felt easier than Proljeće

Really rad line. Epic pumpy finish. A bit easier than Punoglavac.

Probably soft for the grade but a great warmup.

One of those classic tufa lines that will feel easy for the adept but hard for those who aren’t. I’m one of those poor souls who sucks at tufas. Regardless, an amazing line. Super happy to OS. Right knee-pad was useful.

Good holds but a little awkward. The rope at anchors needs to be replaced with chains. It’s really hard to clip into the hangers at the top with the rope in the way.

Really fun. Creative rest stances.

Definitely still some choss. Looks easier than it is

Felt hard. Every other hold is loose or on a hollow flake. Meh.

Thoughtful side-pulling of various flakes. Surmount an obvious ledge avoiding the medium X’d death block. Do not pull on this, it’s a trap. The final mantle is committing and balancey. Beached-whale tactics acceptable.

Good warmup. Nice jugs with slab feet. A few thoughtful moves. Wish it were longer.

Hard core-intensive slab, felt around 11b to the 3rd bolt. 5.7 climbing (and mild gardening) until the last slab above jugs, where it felt around 10b/c to chains. Pretty fun.

This was one of the coolest slab climbs I’ve ever done. Wish I would’ve led it but just did a TR for a second warmup after Flying glue gun

Crux was dancing feet. Felt a little scary since I suck at slab.

Spicy feet!

This route was literally unclimbable. Something must have broken. Not fun at all. Skip.

What an epic crux. Really fun, and committing. Probably harder if you’re short.

Climbs like a chossy hollow trad route, runouts included. One move out left gives the grade, depending on how hard you find it. 6 bolts. The last bolt is hidden out left just when you are sweating about the runout to anchors.

Harder for the short. Epic finish.

So good. So so short.

Wow, what an adventure. I linked this all the way to the top via Gina. Rope drag was horrendous and had to down-climb multiple times to unclip draws as I had no slings on me. The nature of the bolting on this requires copious use of slings otherwise it’s basically unclimbable. Had to rest just before the crux move after too much up and down reorganizing clips. No option to fell/hung on this app?? Top tufa crux is incredible exposed movement. Anchor could use a rap ring or two, currently only has one quick link on the bottom hanger. None of the moves were harder than 6c-ish. Pump plays into consideration but I think this might be soft.

I thought this route was really great. Holds perfectly spaced where you want them, cool moves, good view at the top. Fun.

Hard move off a broken hold that’s now a slopey crimp rail. The rest of it is 10a climbing.

Via Gina. Wandery but decent moves. The anchor is way off to the right, you have to look for it or you’ll miss it and continue onto the third pitch.

A bit of choss. Top is a little annoying with how you traverse to the right really far.

Fun, but not as classic as Silver Spurs

A little wandery

2nd try. Anchor clip is a bitch and completely ruins the quality of the climb. Just go up and put a sling on it, then try from the ground again where you can comfortably clip from the holds below. Pull the crux and slap the chains.

Pretty bomber moves with great jugs and kneebars until suddenly the hands get smaller and the feet disappear! The final hard move to the glory cave is almost beyond hope…the undercling is so damn polished I could barely hold onto it. Stay low on the traverse!

Fun but polished finish. Feel like a crack climb at the top with jugs instead of jams

Dope

3 tries total. What an ass-kicker. Spicy, core-intensive boulder problem to an amazing arm-tube rest. Then it’s on like Donkey Kong all the way to chains. Graded 7b in most places but 7b+ feels more appropriate.

Best 10- in Kalymnos.

The topo line on this is totally wrong. This line is a few to the left. The mud river tufa thing is so freakin’ cool. It’s too bad this route doesn’t end 2 bolts lower. The top section is awkward, greasy, and uncharacteristically hard compared to the rest of this climb. Loses 2 stars from me for this alone.

Super polished, super sweaty. Bad choice of warmup.

Yee-haw

Bottom is forgettable, the crux is reachy and there’s some stemming fuckery awaiting shorter folks. The top moves are cool but short-lived.

Pretty heady climbing. Technical with moves that aren’t necessarily insecure but a little bizarre and committing. Pretty fun if you’re not scared.

Nice pumpy warmup. Clipping anchors was the crux which is a bit annoying.

This route was like the chick across the bar at 3 AM: looked better from a distance, was more demanding than I anticipated, and left me regretting my life choices when it was over. Zero stars

This is not the correct topo line for this route. It’s a few to the right. One-move wonder through a shitty polished tufa. The rest of the climb is on pleasant edges.

Quality packed into a short route. Quite the calf-burner.

Really nice. Perfectly sculpted crux holds.

Wow, what a view! Top it out for sure. The quality of the rock on the final pillar is amazing and not polished yet

Surprisingly fun.

Super easy if you’re tall.

The top half is that kind of climbing that makes you happy to be alive. Sorting feet through the crux is crucial, and getting to the anchors with the correct holds is tricky.

3rd try, first of the grade. This is wrongly graded as 8a+ on multiple sites. 12d at the hardest, might feel soft to super-strong tall folk. Really intense, bouldery moves with extended clips necessary. Once you surmount the roof it’s pretty much over, with 5.11a climbing to chains.

Kind of not classic

Greasy.

Got really screwed up near the top, and flash pumped. Yikes. Not a gimme

One of the least-classic things I’ve done on Kalymnos. Meh. No stars

5.8 jugs till a crux move at the anchor. Really enjoyed the movement

Haha, wild!

Loses a star for polish

3rd day on, felt hard. Had a lot of trouble reading the crux sequences

Heady, delicate, and awkward. No stars.

Sick pockets

One-move wonder at the top giving it the grade

Juggy and fun but a little slimy

Thug for the grade

Awesome warmup line. Mostly jugs.

Nice warmup!

Meh. Weird stemming and a polished finish.