Jonathan Bull

I had saved this one for the flash go. I got a bit too pumped and just tickled the final jug on the flash. Then it took 5 more goes to finally nail it. The process was really fun and worthwhile. Will definitely repeat this one.

So nice I had to climb it twice! Although it was a heart-thumping experience both times. Steady climbing on excellent holds.

Entertaining

Heart in mouth finish

Unique and demanding

Excellent. Hard final move.

Very small crimps, suits my style. Soft 7C? The top out is worthwhile and easier than it looks.

Found a weird method for the start. An unsettling experience.

Excellent! It went static and not so hard after a few attempts, but I borrowed a pair of Drones to make the heel hook stay in. The final move is a bit sharp and disappointing in comparison to the slap up with right hand.

Lovely rock, fun move. I went left hand first.

The big move to the sloper is what this is all about. Otherwise the rock quality spoils it a bit. I found beta that made it feel easier than the proposed grade.

Excellent climb slightly spoiled by the landing. Safe with a pad on the boulder behind and a spotter.

One hard move, a bit sharp.

Now thoroughly cleaned up. A lovely one mover.

Superb.

Lovely sharp crimps

Tried this various ways and it felt pretty hard. Then a left toe hook unlocked it. Hot today but the rock is so rough that it doesn’t make a huge difference.

Interesting move, had to go heel over hands and bump

Nice, did it there and back again

The only side that’s not above a lake

Excellent technical climbing

Surprisingly hard. 3rd go

3rd go. Old school climbing :-)

3rd go

Lifetime tick. Joyous to climb.

2nd go

Little kick for the win

Bad beta using the only dry ish holds

Burned the flash with a bad heel hook, then 2nd go

Using the pockets for right hand, it felt easier than Krill

Lovely stand up move

Worthwhile and interesting

Utterly lovely climb.

I tried this in 2007, and couldn’t get the last move. Now, 17 years later, I clean up some unfinished business.

Good footwork needed

Ace. Tried to flash this. 6th go or something, very knacky

1.5 hours session, 1 splitter on the pebble, 2 minutes jibbering at the final mantel, infinite satisfaction. One of the finest gritstone boulders I’ve done.

Felt easy until I had to mantel under rather damp conditions.

Excellent

Good moves, definitely more of a route than a boulder.

2 years of work to get here, so this was an emotional one. I don’t know if it’s hard 7C or easy 7C+, but I do know that it’s 100% brilliant.

Lived up to its reputation. One hour and a few tries to get it done.

Fun big move

This was really fun. Technical and long moves on crimps with small footholds. Maybe more mentally demanding than physically due to the height and possibility of falling close to a side wall. British grade of E5/6 more appropriate?

Good movement, quite technical.

Really nice slab with a super jug to finish.

hard start to an easy slab.

The elusive flash first ascent!

More crimpy and worrying than its neighbours but not actually that hard if you can control the Elvis leg.

More satisfying moves than the line to the left. Maybe a touch easier too. Really recommended!

Thin slab climbing with a hard move to finish. Standing on the lovely small crystal holds is the hard bit.

A nice eliminate. A bit more power needed.

Maybe easier when it’s completely dry. I had to pull quite hard and the top out isn’t easy.

The best of the area so far? Really lovely holds.

Bra fynd!

A good one with more moves than I expected. I messed up the top first time as it was dirty.

Lots of holds so the climb didn’t feel very defined.

Trainer solo happiness

Worthwhile and not much harder than the original.

A good one! Second go after not enough precision going for the hole first time. Repeated afterwards with a right heel hook - if you can get it in the problem is about 6C.

Luckily only 2 goes needed - that finger lock can be painful.

Annoying move, but I had to do it.

Vilken epic. 6 sessioner. Jag nästan gav upp men man måste göra det här Stockholms klassiker! Jag kunde göra första flytten statiskt, det gör en skillnad, men ändå är det tungt.

Stopped at the jug, the top was wet. Will have to try the topout next time.

One of the best lines I have developed in Stockholm. Perfect holds lead to a big move to the top. Scary but safe.

Really nice.

Really nice layback crack. Also a good one for jamming practice.

Lovely layback/fist jamming in the juggy crack. 5+ from sit start, slightly easier from stand. Not 7A.

Reachy

2nd go

Tungt

Left hand catch

A truly emotional experience. Practiced on a top rope because the last move is definitely fluffable. Superb delicate and dynamic moves from start to finish.

Quite fun

Sharp holds - not very pleasant but works as a pumpy warmup.

A good consolation prize for feeling weak.

Eliminate, but good fun. Used feet on the pillar. Does that count?

Jam it baby

Kriiiimps. Häl beta funkade rätt bra

Så roligt

Jättebra problem! Lite lättare med knälås på början.

Good!

Worth trying. Annoying start but fun technique. 1 session.

Hårdare pga -7 grader. Jätte roligt

Pulling hard on jugs. Simple pleasures.

Hard to read, or did I miss something obvious?

Right heel toe cam helped with the crux

2nd go after fluffing the start move! Tasty jug hauling.

Nice big throws on good holds.

In the heat it was tricky to hold the sloper, but a heel hook saved the day.

Sustained and dynamic climbing, one of the best traverses

The fingerjam was painful which spoiled the climb a bit.

Balancy and fun.

Really cool moves on good holds.

What an incredible line! Perfect crimps lead to a crux sequence that messes with your head, even if the landing is quite safe.

From sit start, felt more like 7A.

Flowy moves on good rock.

Good moves, feels more like a route than a boulder.

Same good moves with a few more to get warmed up.

Fun, committing, but not all that hard. Heart in my mouth for the last move to the jugs. The fall has been tested and is safe with a spotter and 2 or 3 pads.

This took almost a year. Precision, pulling really hard, and a full value mantel topout- 3 of my favourite elements in 1 climb. One of the best problems I’ve done in Stockholm!

Fun and a bit pumpy. Täby’s answer to Sumpantraversen.

Trainers and in the dark

As usual with hard first ascents, it took a few sessions to clean holds and find potential sequences. It took a few more sessions to refine beta and to link moves, and finally today I felt strong enough and it was cold and dry. I am not 100% sure of the grade but it feels like a progression in my bouldering. The hardest moves are close to my strength limit. Anyway, I was very calm and it was a profoundly satisfying experience to climb on this beautiful hidden boulder, hence the name.

Började med både händerna i sprickan från sitt. Fint och tungt klättring.

Så coolt. Ganska tungt på fingrarna så tänkte 7A. Värde ett besök!

Snyggt

Climbed the extension to the far right end of the crag. Hard 7B/+. Feels more like a route, with about 20 moves, and 3 cruxes separated by good rests. Quality climb!

One move wonder fits well into a lunch break :-) no classic but worth the effort. A touch hard for 7A.

Climbed from sit start. Fun moves, hard mantel. Have not yet managed to do it from the left hand side of the break.

With heel hook. Can be done without. Super climbing.

Pinching boreholes and a mantel, what's not to like?

Lovely climb

Faaan vad kul

Don’t. Look. Down.

Like Font! Hard.

Så skönt.

Utan jug. Roligt!

What an epic to get here. 10 sessions, lots of fingerboarding, all for 3 simple moves. Total satisfaction.

The mantel is cool.

Delicate moves with a spicy topout.

Good moves on an attractive feature.

A really fun climb, well worth the effort. 2 or 3 pads protect the bad landing.

Quite pumpy! The last move felt harder than it needed to be.

Superb route, if a little rough on the skin.

Lovely pockets

Delicate topout, kinda fun

One session with some motivated people :-) my first 7B+ A fantastic set of moves

Good conditions and persistence paid off.

A really good problem, quite powerful on positive holds.

Even more fun!

Fun on big jugs, good quality rock!

from sit start it’s a much nicer climb

Right heel hook on the rail and pull really hard.

Went with the right hand to the lip. First of the grade.

A bit spicy at the top :-)

Roligt flytt

Really nice slab with small positive edges.

Arete from standing. Possibly has been climbed before as brushes found underneath.

Loads of fun!

A lovely little climb. Its namesake slept right through the event.

The first cleaned and climbed problem in Skavlöten!

Rather wet but it finally went down today! New beta from Strong Rob and a dose of extra pysche helped a great deal.

Härligt warmup

Från sitt. Ett smått grepp gick sönder. Värd besväret!

Väldigt fint! En riktig mini Classic

Tough finish!

Sit start on the low flat hold

FA Anders Haponen