Alexandre TRITZ

A hard crimpy 4 moves boulder in the middle (6c/7a) after a pumpy start. The second half is okay if you are not totally pumped. Very very nice but much harder than Princesa (7b) on the left. In my opinion 7b+/7c.

pockets 4ever

superb concretions, crimps, large but not morpho moves. A bit of commitment at the end ! king line !

very cool with some nice crimps in the middle, pumpy !

hard beginning, insane reachy middle section on crimps and no rest to the top with pumpy moves. would say as hard as cleopatra which i redpointed in 2 tries

bouldery uo tho the 5th bolt, then rest bedore attacking the pumpy powerful overhang. Small rest before the end part on pockets 😉 top !

very nice and homogenous, certainly harder for small people than for tall people 👌

a bit easier than the neighbouring "inferno e paradiso". world class good pumpy sexy overhang

super nice, crimps, tufa,pockets and good crimps again !

superb evident line, easy beginning, condensed section on tiny sharp crimps, then easier pumpy section. A must !

EASY start but hard slopy holds in the 2nd part. More like good 6c

superb pillar on compact grey rock

very powerful section of 10 moves which drain your energy out. power endurance, no move is much harder than the other. A must in the grade !

good warmup to awaken your arms ! physical with very nice moves 👍

fantastic route with powerful start and then an easier section that leads to a fierce crux : go reach a sharp "gocce" that you crimp with two fingers and then feet up and lock-off to a good crimp, then feet up again, relatively good crimpy pinch, then jug ! The end becomes easier but still remains around 6b. The crux section is in my opinion around 6c+/7a. 7a ricci di mare settore gocce di natale is easier/comparable. 6b+/6c maybe in the 80' and still.. Anyway apart from the sandbag grading, awesome route !

Don't get fooled by the jugs, they are really forearms pumpers ! Bellisima, a bit easier than pumping iron 7c .

Intense sections at the start and in the middle. Hard to read, satisfying to climb !

world class ! pumpy on holes, underclings, crimps... a lot of lockoffs and medium sized holds without real rest in the 20 first meters make the route physical, pumpy, and technical at the same time. Really challenging ! in paper topo 7b, in my opinion worth it, and not a cheap one ! 💪

non obvious to read, but very class crack !

cool 25m route ! a small sequence at the beginning, then chimney like to the top full of jugs.

super class bouldery section of 7-8 moves ending by explosive move to massive jug. Put the draws on lead and unfortunately had to do it direct afterwards on toprope to quickly put the gear off because massive rain suddently came !

balance move ? didn't see it. Hard crimp and sloper to hold to "dynamise" on a sidepull. beginning and end much easier

very nice, from easy approach to small roof with crack, crimps and easier end and striped grey slab at the end. challenging and interesting !

tricky and very inconfortable...

easy approach followed by several crux to rest sections. quite a sandbag for 7a, more heavy 7a+

cool start on jugs, then get very steep on pinches to a thin tufa crux. second part on larger tufas, very pumpy and aesthetic !

nice climbing on a long tufa !

for me 1st crux at the 3rd clip totally spoiled by the quickdraw and the rope covering the key hold... a shame because the route is nice. Had unfortunately to do the route toprope. After that 3rd bolt, lead or toprope doesn't change anything

super hard start section on crimps and small holes/pinches in light overhang (6c boulder approx), then the second half becomes tranquilo. not homogenous at all but cool route

very nice ! sketchy in the middle in a sort of crimpy wall/dihedral (crux), then nice undercling moves and don't underestimate the few last moves in the crack where it becomes harder again !

easy approach, then technical and vertical to very crimpy (and morpho for smaller than 1m65) crux section with tricky clip (approx V5). Second part easier, don't rush ! worth 7c for needed finger-strength. caution 33m high and 20 Quickdraws !!

super sharp on "ricci di mare" holds". not easy to read but super enjoyable !

nice technical "pillar" with a very painful right hand crimp in the second part , sharp !

cool arete with holes, pockmarks and pinches. quite easy.

powerful underclings to start followed by easier moves and then large moves from undercling to jug and undercling to pocket (morpho for smaller than 1m75?). Finishes with runout on pockets

fantastic ! tufa climbing in maybe 40 degrees overhang makes the first common part with the neighbouring 7b. Continues with small overhang in offwidth, then vertical crux sequence to the top. Resistance route.

2nd go. pure finger strength in the whole second part (no pump). 3 first quickdraws morpho, almost impossible for 1m65.

slab beginning, then dihedral with pockets. second pitch impressive in chimney, quite uncomfortable rope drag in the last meters when you do the 40m in a row.

nice wide dihedral 👍

Cool finger-strength moves, technical sequence climbing !

thought it was hard because thought i was in the nearby 6b...cool crimps and holes, sometimes tricky to find the holds !

Large moves to begin, superb hollow "cane", technical traverse with possible cool drop-knee, then sustained holes, edge and good slab finish.

fantastic ! 40m of pure pleasure, even if my anti-style ! first 15m of sustained 6c with a technical move under the middle-anchor, then 15m of slight slab with some fingery moves which end in a crack to pass a small roof. Then 10m of slab full of jugs with breathtaking view 🙂

Easy approach, crux in the middle and non trivial finish, especially if you miss an enormous jug in the fat stalactite zone 😉

pumpy and boulder in the middle. 2nd try

super long moves. certainly more 7b+ for short people and more 7b for taller people

crescendo approach and then boulder problem on crimps and pinches Felt difficulty may vary a lot depending on the beta at the end (feels harder than 7b+ when beta is wrongl

superb ! crimpy crux in oberhang in the beginning and then lots of good holds. reachy move at the end, could explain the 7b+/c found in some guidebooks

awesome crack, but hard start avoidable with reachy move

physical, then solid hook, pinch and big lockoff. traverse after rest and shitty to vlip anchor. still awesome !

sharp holes and pumpy end. good !

crux at the end, almost onsight but slipped in the middle. huge whipper if you fall at the end ! 7b in bad conditions..

pumpy, then powerful and slopy crimps at the end ! if you fall you start again from zero

superb overhang and then hard moves to get on the wall. Then sustained ! top notch !

super cool colos !

absolutely awesome long physical moves with not so bad rests. crux 1 on underclings after dyno, crux 2 on pockets, crux 3 at the top with hook and fantastic crossover (last move) . insane !

large moves in the first part, then hard roof to come over. try to recover while you climb the second part

hard start and hard end ! not homogenous, but still good !

tiny holes and finger strength at the end

some say 6c+. could be, crux on sloper

powerful in the roof and technical holes in the wall ! not evident !

dynamic move at the start, physical traverse and then pinch and gaston on big rail !