Nikita Yarko

Great straight line with bleau style mantle. Felt way harder than 6C+.

Really pleasant and interesting boulder

+27°C and shining sun after a week of rain) Very nice ending for our Easter trip to Bleau 2024.

Pure fun boulder when you have enough pads 🔥

just cool

Hard, tricky, cool. I went (slightly dynamicaly) with my right hand from that small crimp to the good pocket above. Quite tricky technical line.

Cool and tricky start moves. By first try it seemed impossible. Then I could find a good body positioning and a few tries later managed to finish it.

Amazing one. The best in that area.

4th go. Without knee bar or feet first. Very pleasant climb.

It was very tricky to find a beta. Felt harder than King of Kontroversy links from it.

Very morpho start. It was my absolute maximum to take left and right start holds.

not easy one)) has nothing to do with 7A+ I think 😁

with crack only felt hard)))

Hard, maybe 7C+, but such a cool crimp & tension testpiece🙂

at least a hard 7A+ for me😰 and super pumpy))

2nd go. Benchmark beauty💎

No relax after the lower crux😁 you will need to keep tension untill the very end)

felt a bit softer than Slimeline, but still nice)

3rd go (somehow failed 2 times at start move). Tricky mantle🙂

2nd go. Technical traverse and the last cruxy move

Hard last move

2nd go

Super nice unique line with a tricky (Bleau style) top out.

Started two hands on the sloper and feet on the right. The main difficulty is keeping the body tension (in order not to dab the blocks underneath)

It felt a bit easier than other 8As that I tried in Tichino so far, but still very decent line with a powerful crux move from the undercling🖤 Since it is kind of a defined line, it would be great if there was a clear descripton of it (what is in and what is excluded), to avoid the confusion on that 🙂 What I learned from more "experienced" ones: ◾️ start holds are two slopy holds to the left from the biiig obvious jug/ledge ◾️ the big obvious jug/ledge is excluded (it didn't exist earlier and appeared after a big piece of rock fell off because someone lit a fire underneath the block) ◾️ big obvious undercling "must" be used😁 ◾️to the crux "sloper/hole" you have to go with your right han ◾️ big jug right above the "crux sloper/hole" is excluded I just did it how it was explained to me, maybe this info will be helpful✌️

Fun

Started it down left where two arrows drawn, went a bit right and topped it out as Foxy dane. Pretty line, however there are many interpretations of it on diffetent videos🙂

Beautiful minimalistic crimpy testpiece🔥

Tricky one. Felt harder than the most of 7As I've tried)

At my first attempt I've just slipped off from the last pockets)

If you want to climb lead, but forgot your rope at home😁

Nice powerful moves on good holds. It was really humid today. It seemed pretty soft for 7C to me.

Powerful start

I used a foot jam left in the crack after a powerful first move

Maybe 6B/+

Very interesting climb

Cute

Pleasant holds and moves. Seemed to be a not hard 7B for me

2nd go. Did the lowest possible start from the ground. Cool solid route

Nice powerful moves on the start and unique tricky mantle at the end 💎

I was not sure if the line had sit start, so I just started sitting :)

Cool classic roof

It took me a while till Icould find a good beta here

very underrated line🔥

Unfortunately missed the flash of this one😊 Really nice pleasant moves!

Very pleasent one. Quite unique high foot move to the top.

Quite morpho move in the middle from undercling

One of my favorite lines so far

The original description of the route was just "sd centered under the bow and exit at the front of this" :) In November 2021 (after the route was many times repeated) the description was suddenly rewritten with multiple eliminations added... strange

Perfect location on the parking. Obvious and logical line. It's all just about the powerful start move ;) It felt quite easy to me. Might be just a 7B.

3rd go. Start move is quite powerfull and also requires good technique (good positioning)

Unexpectedly cool new traverse! Not hard 7B

2nd go

Happy to make the 2nd ascent of this gem! World class elegant high and technical line. Respect to Joscha for it!

In my opinion it's the coolest boulder in Pferdestall. Respect to Max for exploring it!

Nice and powerful

Large compression moves Not sure about the grade 7B/+

First it seemed to me quite mediocre and way easier as it eventually turned out to be. With the beta I could find it felt like an interesting solid 7B demanding some core strength. I'm very curious what others will say ;)

5 star boulder with amazing moves. I started in the lowest possible position with both hands on the lower rail (not on the edge). For me it felt more like a soft 7C/+

Started (sit) at 2 marked underklings. Seemed way too easy for 7B and even 7A+

Did it barefoot ;D Total classic!

One of the nicest 7C's I've tried in Magic Wood sofar

5th go. Slopers are my love))

Quite soft for the grade, but very nice crimpy moves

That was a battle for me ;) Total classic boulder! Must have))

Nice compression problem. Very morpho. The taller you are, the easier it is for you ;D

Was hard for me with my 174cm. Shitty morpho move ;)

Nice combination of power moves below, mantle and old school climbing to the top

One hard long move in the middle

I did it with an obvious sitstart (more to the left, not upper on the stone to the right). It felt for me as a quite hard 7A or even 7A+.

Classic

Very nice one

Quite soft

2nd go)

1st try. But I already have done Schrotti)

Cool roof with very interesting moves

A bit tension

Without the lower part (foot holds, underklings, anything) it feels just a bit more tricky. Anyways I like the boulder!

A big central pinch hold broke off a few days ago (I was told about it by guys who did it before that). Probably it's the first repetition after that

Not the best choise for warming up)) I find it quite hard 7A. Maybe 7A+

2nd go. Mega cool boulder.

It felt quite easy to me. Classic!

the coolest one on the block)

I didn't feel any difference in the difficulty between this one and Bosna Genial 7A

Quite difficult one for 7A, may be I just didn't find the right beta)) What I did was more like 7A+/B :)

Easy dyno🚀

2nd Go👌

Soft

2nd or 3rd go

Soft

Soft 7C with very diverse and unique moves

Nice variation of the route with approx. the same difficulty grade as the main route (original straight mantle top-out seems to be even a bit harder). I think it's not harder than 7B.

First I had to make a 20min cleaning session for the top-out (to remove the moose and crumbling "crystals" with metallic brush). After that I could quickly ascend it :) Solid 7B in my opinion. This direct mantle top out I personally find the most spicy and interesting comparing to other two

Was a nice warm-up jump boulder for me. I would say it's a cool and not hard 7A

Soft, even with the very low start (which I don't really find so necessary). The best boulder of the area

Nice one. Just high and cool.

Dope classic line. Not hard. I climbed it with a slightly different beta than usual, check in the video attached ;)

Cool high line. Not hard, with elegant crux

Once you find the right beta it feels cool)

Looong nice boulder. Endurance is my biggest weakness... No idea why did I suddenly decided to work on it?! ;D

2nd go in crocks) As far as I understand, the original "Sonnenschein im Paradies 7A" should go from the start straight up to the hook/anchor (not to the right). But here on 27crags it is represented going to the right :)

Big respect to Joscha for finding this gem, cleaning, building a landing platform and showing it to me! Maybe not the hardest boulder of this grade, but it definitely has a great sequence of moves! Sharp, angry, dope and a a bit crubmling 😜

Lovin' this block! It looks so cool. The boulder itself seems to be quite "morpho")) Even with my 174cm it felt quite on the limit reaching the crack :D

The boulder could be also solved statically by using a good undercling for the right hand. Pleasant moves in both variations (static and dynamic)

Nice line!! Unfortunately I did't find it so difficult to give it a harder grade than 6C+

Too heaaavy for 7A+ rather 7B ;) Definitely cool line!

If I understood it right - the right crack is restricted :)

Easy but makes real fun

2nd go

Top-out to the right over arete through the slopers ;)

3rd go to warm-up

3rd go to warm-up

Top-out to the right over the arete through the slopers ;)

With the right beta it's really pleasant smooth 7A line

climbed in crocks to warm-up.. unique nice moves

3rd go. My style👌

2nd go. Nice warm-up line

Real gem!

2nd go

In Crocks :)

Heavy start when you warm up in crocks))

Pleasant moves. Makes fun)

5 star boulder!

Few tries💥 Coooool boolder!

Flashed it in Crocks too🙂 Funny moves!

Flashed it in Crocks😜

I did't use the right edge, otherwise it doesn't look like 7B👌 Nice moves by the way )

3rd go

Excellent line!!! I have defeated it just in a couple tries. Top out was entirely in rime when I did it, so it made that a bit spicier ;)

The line connects "Fynndlings Götti 7B+" with "Dystophie,7B/+". The loooong morpho crux move awaits you in the very end (if you're under 175cm like me, you're likely to get fun there). Props to Falco Bartus for FA of this route in the spring 2019!

Soft

Worthy line with a long crux move to the sloper right in the middle)

Quite hard. Just 3 truly bouldery moves)) The block stays on the spring. This location and water sounds definitely make it special

Second GO :)

Interesting start, elegant balance move!

It's a pretty obvious morpho-problem (way harder for shorter fellows). Even with my 174cm it felt definitely not easier as 7B. The guys who ticked the route before as 7A are way taller than 180cm. The boulder itself is real bomb! Long moves at this ceiling require a good body tension. Interesting why this stunner has so few ascents till today..

Compression and slopers.. masterpiece!

Cool technical and gentle crux move to the edge

Second go! Nice warm-up)

Cool starting crunk-move 💥

Gem🔝

Soft and nice

Joke-line😂

in Crocs

Took a few tries for me! Highly recommend it👍

Was quite soft to me, maybe just solid 7C, but really nice moves🤤

My toes are sore now 😅

Nice one! Did it in Crocs to warm up ;D

Flashed in Crocs ;D

Great line, despite the polished holds!! Dream moves)

Cool line!

Noteworthy line! Didn't seem easy to me. First couple moves are the crux, did them with right heel.

Classic line! Must have :)

3rd go, was pity to miss flash here ;D Nice rolling move on to the left hook!

Cool subtle topout thru slopers

Morpho problem. For my height (174cm) was quite okay, but for shorter fellows it seems to be way harder. I did the last move (which I think is the crux) as a powerful really accurate drop of the left hand supressing the swing.

Nice shooter

5th go ;) Very easy for my height (174cm).

Warmup

Flashed in Crocs 😅

Indoor style problem of some fun)

Even a just look of this boulder inspires

Gem of Kottenheim!

Good warm up before "der Hexer" himself ;)

Cool very classic line

Soft 7B. Nice techy lowball line, definitely the one of "must do" routes in Glees. For me it was obviously softer than "Es" and even, oddly enough, "Böse Mörse"

Elegant line) Makes you thing hard on the beta!

Cool one! The long last campus move is the crux.

Nice power line

My summer love story 2018. When the route is great and not so hard, you feel you're almost-almost there, but your shape lays so deep on the bottom and you can come to your beloved only once a month. Superb line! High enough,very balansed, offers crimps as well as slopers, big moves as well as subtle ones. Definitely one of the best in the area. Highly recommend ;)

Maybe soft 7B+. Nice moves all the way. Good for a training

I definitely like this line! Has one very long move in the beginning.

Solid, requires body tension

Superb line, one of the most logical and nicest in the cave!

Big pleasant moves

Одна из лучших трасс района!

Отличный несложный потолок

Классный силовое начало

Длинная, ровная, классная. Достойная трасса)

Очень достойная, но почему-то не очень популярная)

со второй)

Не сложная, корпусная, классная))

Понравилась

Потренировали мизерки на жаре, было нелегко, но весело)

Made a kind of jump from little crimpers to the big upper hold before topping it out))

Not hard. You have to push strongly the sharpest crimper with the right hand to make a dyno move to the ebge with the left. I had to wrap 3 fingertips of my right hand with tape just missing little finger and guess what..?!? I've got a cut of it at one stroke during my sending try))

It was really my first crack climbing experience, and seems to be last ;) I had actualy been involved into this venture by pure accident.. cause my pal were striving to try it.. But I've unexpectedly got a lot of fun figuring out and trying it's various beta. Happy that all finally clicked!!! Can't say anything about its grade(( too specific.. p.s. Not really sure I want to try another one... my arms are so sore ;)))

Pushin the left crimp and that's it ;D

5 star problem. Amazing roll out onto the right heel. For me the most problematic part was to bring right heel up to the small jug.

Gem!

One cool shot and it's yours ;)

Soft. What a dope dyno!!! Charmed)

Climbed it for warming up only)) Microboulder with ambiguous start position..

Superb line. Dissapointed a bit by missing the flash

Soft. Not the best line, bud good enough to warm up.

Несложная 7Б с очень интересным набором движений

Soft. Несложная 7B. Стартовую трещину (подхват), очень редко можно застать сухой, поэтому если увидел, что сухая - надо быстрей залезать)) Классные приятные движения, равномерная

Nice and techy traverse)

Противная линия, но для разминки залезли)) Удобней всего в Буревестнике было ориентироваться с приложением AllClimb (Android). По 27crags очень сложно въехать что-где.. слишком много всего )))

Сделал динамичным движением со стартовых зацепок вертикально вверх на удобную ручку правой, а дальше очень несложный долаз. В -3 градуса мне показалась очень несложной

Высокая, равномерная, очень приятная линия!

Очень неплохой накат к небольшому мысообразному выступу верхней грани, который пришлось круто зажать правой, чтобы выйти вверх. Мне показалась посложнее чем 7А+

Даже в -3 градуса, при идеальном трении, пришлось неплохо напрячься, чтоб не уйти с первых перехватов))

Очень приятная ровная линия!

Что-то из серии неудобных трасс с жопным стартом)))

Jan 1st. New year, New level)) Силовая, но техничная линия. Моя первая восьмерка. Не использовал под ноги нижний блок/пласт. Определённо рекомендую! Powerfull but techy line. Didn't use the lower block/stone for feet. My first eightish send)) Definetly can recommend it!!

Равномерная линия, пара длинных движений наверху.

Изматывающий ход с очень интересными движениями, которых аж около 20)) About 20 interesting but exhausting moves.

Очень классные нестандартные движения. Довольно силовая. Заставляет поработать ногами. Nice unconventional moves. Quite powerful line. Makes your feet work hard))

Очень достойная линия, с ключевыми движениями в конце. Нелегко далась)) Worthy line with a crux at it's end!

Ползучие полочки)) Slippery holds

Довольно сложные пара стартовых движений. Quite tough at very beginning))

Большие движения. Big moves.

Очень классный траверс по пассивам!!

Может я чего-то не понял на этой трассе)) но по мне потянет на 7А. Хороший силовой старт сидя с двух небольших активников на хорошую откидку левой, после, правой подхватил небольшой клювик под 2 пальца, получше поставил ноги и вытянулся правой по диагонали далеко вверх на хорошую зацепку в трещине, дальше простой долаз. Движения мне ооочень понравились, сделал только со второй попытки.

2я попытка)

Soft

Attractive line beginning with the sharp crimpy traverse and nice power crux move in the middle!!

2я попытка)

Superb traverse with the crux at the last part of it!! Ооочень классный траверс с ключём на завершающей части)))

Очень достояная трасса, с аккуратными движениями на небольшие зацепки и интересным вылазом

Очень понравилась. Наверное показалась слегка сложнее 7A, потому что лазили на заминку уже ночью с фонариками))

Seems soft. Given with a good beta I managed to send it at the 2nd attempt.

Precise, accurate climbing))

Very good moves)) Glad to make a FA of this nice line!

Хорошо запрятанная линия))))

Pure power move

A power start move and techy ending)))

Awesome one)) 7B grade ethalon for me)))

Awkward line))))

Few tries))) My style!

Logical sit start goes with power move from left crimp and right pinch. Crack start on the right as described here in beta looks rather like another different line with ~7B+/C sequence (much harder)

Soft. Just a few tries.

Powerful start)) was pitty to miss a flash

Soft but nice one. Techy and endurance requiring line.

Good one to end a day up)) Second go. Just Was slippery on the top after the rain

Soft. Couple of tries only. May be just my style and good conditions. Pleasant climbing.

Like such a dyno move))

Good, power moves at start)))

Not sure about the grade.. but there is such a nice roll onto left heel in order to get the first crimpy sidepull by left hand and than a very accurate shot to the sharpest jug with the same hand, and then one more dyno to the sloper to be saved)))))))

Nice compression line.

Nice two moves additionally to Biologi. So sick line. My style.

Was a pity to miss the flash(( My style boulder.

Unfortunately let my flash slip, than sent from 4th try.

Did with 20 moves beta))) Cooool line!!

To start: Lay under the arete and fix left toe hook far on left and stick right toe in to the wall.

Very pleasant working line. Makes you to think of and find your own beta.