Will Smith

Not the best start to the day after my rope bag rolled down the bank and promptly drifted across to the other side of the river. After a short swim I managed to get up this 2nd go with a very wet rope. Tried it a bit 3 years ago too

Goodbye Gorges du Loup!

Doubt its 8c. Not gunna lie - only did this one for the tick. Its just the first part of Ultimate Sacrifice. A good excuse to climb most of Soul Sacrifice again though, flippin love that route!

3rd go. Harder than deverse for me, probably because there's much less trickery/faggotry to be had on this one. Just pulling on jugs with shit feet.

Wow, kinda unexpected! Thought it would take longer. Doing Last Soul yesterday was good for the condfidence. Happy as larry. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-M00OAi5QSY

1st go but ive done most of it before.

Wahoo! Midday river swim did its magic. This is why I love redpointing - screaming through those top moves, skipping 3 clips in a row - so much fun. Won this battle but the real war is still on.

Really technical. Harder than Odyssee next to it.

7c/+?

So good

Pleased to do this. Feels flipping hard for me but its my anti-style. 8a+/8b but feels harder than or equal to L'ami for me personally.

Not much chalk due to the rain and couldnt see much in the sun. Proper onsight. Not as good as surrounding routes but still nice. Some big moves.

Hard for me. Nice to do something anti-style after being in Loup. Fingertips took a beating.

Great route. Fell of the top of the flipping extension

L1+2+3. Nice to do some onsighting. Cool crag.

Cool

Techy slopy tufa. Hard at the end

Hanging upside down for too long screws up your head.

Dunno about 8c for this. Don't think it is if you use your knees. Does suit me but still...

Flipping move by the first/second clip is hard. The rest of it is ok. To the top next time.

Dont like the 7b start. The rest is nice.

Harder than Hot Chilli I reckon. Quality though. Drop knee central. EDIT: Ive now climbed this route several times, its easier than hot chilli, it just feels really hard to start with as its so beta intensive. Becomes reasonably steady once you really know the easiest beta. Hot chilli is much more basic so I dont think would get that much easier with more time on it. Cant rate this route enough though! My favourite route ever?

Soft. 8 goes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqBh8qIfNK4&feature=youtu.be

Not keen on this one.

Fun tufa climbing. Gotta get used to this

Hard start

2nd go

Great to do this after getting so frustrated on the starting boulder 2 years ago. Steady today. The boulder is kinda shit but the rest of it is stunning.

Flippin brilliant route. Really sustained, quality moves. Pleased with this, in a day.

I tried this once 3 years ago so not a true flash. Great climbing.

Fun (other than the grim 6b+ corner)

Pumpy at the top!

yay, my finger didnt hurt to crimp!

Just not 8a+. Still pleased though, bit of a consolation tick after slipping off the top of Cubata on flash :(

Reasonable flash go

7c/+. This bit of wall is quality.

Bouldery start. 7c+/8a in guide.

Quality. 4th go.

Suits me, very soft though

Annoyingly close to the onsight. Dont skip the last clip, I was close to hitting the boulder behind.

Slopey techy slabby tufary goodness.

Old school crimpy slab.

Last route of the trip. I'll miss this place but im ready for home now. Adios Rodellar!

Fuck, almost gave myself a nice leaving present. Fell off coming into the finish jugs on my onsight, annoying, should have done it.

Got quite pumped.

Bit easy for 8a but tricky to onsight for me. Would be good for flash. Nice moves in crux.

Pleased to onsight this one! Quality.

Felt a bit odd after 5 weeks of steep pulling!

NOOOOOOO! Fell off last move of the onsight. What a twat. Stunning line and quality movement.

The definition of stamina climbing. Quality line and good rock.

The only warm up, very good though!

Fell off this in May, first go today.

Gets the slash grade and certainly felt more 8b+ while I was working it but the send was easier than expected in the end so 8b it is. Tried a few times 3 months ago, then twice 2 weeks ago and went first go today when I was planning just to go up to work the top. Good fight at the end!

WTF! Thats what I said when I clipped the chain. Second go this trip but had a few goes 3 months ago. Even more unexpected than Cuisiniere, I'd never even done the moves at the roof before so just copied what I'd seen on a video last night and it worked! What is going on today? Must be all the biscuits I ate yesterday.

2nd go on the top part

Trying routes at the end of the day after projecting is hard! Felt much easier when fresh. Sustained burly tufa climbing.

L3. First go but have done almost all the climbing before as part of other routes. Just stamina.

Fell of the top in May, first go today.

No way 8a+. Fell off 2 moves from end on my first go which was pretty much an onsight. Felt more 7c+ but I'll leave it at 8a as it suits me very well.

7c+/8a. Climbed with a thunderstorm behind me. Worried at the chain that I might get hit by lightning! Good end to the day.

L2. A fair bit harder than some of the other Rodellar 8a's but probably still 8a. Really good though. The best rock ive climbed on here.

As I found out this is quite hard to onsight now due to broken hold at crux. Also makes the route a bit shit as it feels like you're climbing 40m just to do 2 moves that are way harder then the rest of the route.

Bouldery

Pumpy tufa climbing and then a nice head wall.

Extension doesnt add much. Very soft at 8a. Good but not as good as Gracias Fina.

Sustained tufa climbing. Done 3 routes on this wall and all have been outstanding.

Sweet! Nice to know I can still onsight after so much focus on redpointing. After all the shaking out on Pata I could recover really well at the rests.

L2. I can see how going direct could be 7c+ at a push but thats just an eliminate, there is a huge jug 1 move to the left. 7b+/c without elimination.

Brilliant route.

Really like this style, short and burly but no minging holds and no obvious crux moves.

YEEEAAHHH!!! Tried 3 times in May and was not nearly in the shape required to do it, couldnt do some moves and couldnt link anything. Went home for 3 months, trained hard just for this route, came back and it went quicker than expected. So happy. The hard work paid off, was all worth it. Amazing route! http://willsmithclimbing.wordpress.com/2013/09/14/journey-to-8c/

The start is a bit shit but once into the crack, its good.

Techy start then pulling on buckets

L2. Bit of an epic on this, didnt really know what route I was trying and didnt have nearly enough draws. Had to skip quite a few bolts and split up draws. No chalk after the 7a belay and got pretty pumped searching around for holds above the runout.

L2. Crazy route!! Only about 10 more moves after the 7c belay and all on huge jugs, just big throws between! Good fun.

techy

Techy to start and a bit pumpy, then some steep pulling.

1 hard move

First route of the trip. Quite nice for camino

Better than a lot of the other Camino 7's

A linkup of the first half of Martial music into second half of clarion call, traversing across below the bulge. Top roped it last time.

Had done the bottom part before on the linkup into clarion call.

Had done the top part before on the martial music linkup.

Found this quite hard. All came down to just one move at the crux for me and the rest was fairly steady once worked out.

most fun ive had climbing in a while

Fuck me, about time. Hard for me. Must be good if its only 12m long, pretty much vert and I still enjoy it.

Dont know if a hold has broken on this as for me it seemed like a bit of a one mover in the last roof but everyone just says its jug pulling all the way?

nice to finally climb something

really good, so flowy

Sweet 2 8b's in a day. 3 goes.

L3. Not 8b+, more soft 8b. Amazing though, the line of the cave, right up the middle all the way to the top.

Really good, thought this was much better than Cravita. If Cravita is 8a then this is 8a+. Crimpy power endurance to start, then a rest, then some cool big moves through the steepness and a crux at the lip.

Reasonably close on flash with some vague beta.

L1. Dont think its 8a, sweet steep climbing though.

bouldery start then jugathon

camino is a bouldery fucker

7c/+. Suits me though so I'll take the plus

mega jugs

 did as part of the 7c extension

the 7b+ is ok but the extension is so nice

bouldery start, didnt like this

Had to try hard on this

Feeling a bit shit. Tufas up to boulder at top.

Still feeling weak from being ill, would have liked to have a decent flash go if I wasnt. Really good with crimpy crux at top

wtf with everyone taking 8a. First route ive done since getting ill, felt weak as a pigeon.

Never 8b, just a bouldery fucker of an 8a+.

eurghhh my feet hurt

better than it looks

Another one to add to the annoyingly long list of 7c+ 2nd go.

Not 8a but good route

L1+L2. Had done the 7c+ first part 2 years ago so cant really take OS but it all felt like OS.

Amazing. So good for so long. Rested my way up this, suits me.

Did the 7b+ start 2 years ago but all felt like OS. Hard to tell on the grades of these routes, if you're fit enough it doesnt feel very hard?

Sustained

Too restful to be 8a.

Tried this 2 years ago. Went 2nd go today, cool to come back and get it done.

Dont think it can be 8b. The rest on the 7c+ is too good, you can recover 90% at it and then the boulder problem exension is only a few moves long.

Should have flashed. Pumpy climbing on incut holds.

Pretty much completely artificial but really good movement. Short power endurance on decent holds.

Bit shit really but at least its dry! Second go but have done start of the 7c before.

All the difficulty comes from the first steep section which to be honest is mostly shit thrutchy movement on painfully grim pockets. The top section is ok. 1 star for the history and the line, other than that its fairly wank.

One of the few dry routes. fairly good climbing until the top section where the rock shits out.

Indoor climbing, good effort chippers.

Sweet! This cave is mint.

Awesome. Sustained climbing on good holds between decent rests. Love it!

Power endurance on decent edges, quite basic.

had an epic

bit grim

first route of the trip, pumped, unfit!

Only just caught some of the throws. 6th day on, destroyed.

Learning to climb tufas. 2nd go.

Juggy but some big moves and bad feet.

Had to do it in the full sun which was not good, came down soaked. Not a jug fest like I expected, quite a few slopers.

Soft. Second go.

Such a good line, no other holds other than the ones you use.

Good boulder problem low down then about 7a to the top. A bit squeezed in though. Second go.

Didnt feel like 8a+ although it does suit me well.Tufa blob climbing in first half, then a rest and then a cool sequence on incut holds through the steepness.

Kind of looks good but it was shit to climb.

8a slab tick! didnt expect to do that in Kalymnos. Took a while to work out crux. Second go.

Boulder at bottom then sustained to the top. In the dark with a torch, was so tired and had to try really hard to stick the last hold. Awesome. Second go.

L1+L2. Adam. Adds a really cool section to the top of Morgan.

Not sure about the grade. Probably not 8a. Harder than the 7c+s but dunno if that makes it hard 7c+ or soft 8a. Still await the proper 8a os.

Almost 7c with the extension. Normal 7b+ without extension.

Wooo! Had to try so hard on this. Very pumped at the top, elbows up, good fight!

Crazy, 40m pretty much roof. Never done anything like it before. 2 harder sections. Probably just redpointed the most onsightable 8a in the world. Second go.

Nice and varied

Getting better at the style. 1 or 2 moves away on the onsight. 2nd go.

2 bouldery sections.

Steady up until the crux at the top.

2nd go.

Meant to do Trella but went the wrong way so did this by accident.

7c/+

Wow! Maybe the best route ive done. Perfect the whole way up! Great moves, nice holds, quality line, techy bits, powerful bits, pumpy bits. 2nd go.

Hard start, hard finish.

Slopey

2nd go.

Easy start then a 5 move boulder problem then easy again. 2nd go.

This is my style but still felt hard. Good moves on jugs most of the way then the crux on smaller holds at the top.

Too hard for 7c I thought. 2nd go.

No holds except the ones you need.

2nd RP. Awesome sustained climbing.

Why are 6's so hard?!

In a session. 3rd go.

Felt desperate at the start of the trip, then got back on at the end and it was fine. Perfect style for fitness training.

In the almost dark with a head torch. Big fight and almost fell clipping the chain. Sick.

Fell off last move on onsight - stupid twat! 2nd go.

Desperate!

Well happy! Awesome moves. Longest a route has taken me, about 10 RPs and 4 dogs.

Not as ming as expected but still ming.

Nice

+ extension. Sick rock.

Harder than I expected.

Had done the start before on Corps but dont think that is the 7c+ part so ill take flash.

2 dogs, 2 RPs. So good.

Flash but had done the start on Super mickey. Much better than Super Mickey.

Nice end to a good day. Cool boulder problem through the roof. 2nd go.

Well happy with this. Amazing moves, maybe my fav route from Ceuse.

This time managed to not fall on the last move of 7c+ os.

desperate

1 move but its a good move.

Not 7b+. Could never be the same grade as blocage

Would be an amazing 6b+ if you took out the 2 hard bits.

Hard to get your feet off the floor.

Fell off the mantel before the chains on onsight. 2nd go.

1st 8 in a day.

Fell off last hard move on OS. More sustained than the other 7c+s at cascade.

caught wrong part of finish hold on the flash. bottom slab was the crux.

Easier than Med Douce?

worth using your own draws just for the swing!

Had done the first 4 moves before on correspondance. Didnt feel like 7c.

+ extension

Amazing line

Cool jug pulling.

so nice

1 move

Really good excluding the bottom section. 2nd go.

A mental battle to stay relaxed and remember the foot beta for the top section. 4 redpoints last september and 6 this weekend, fell from the last few moves on 4 of them.

Abbed off, cleaned it, put 2 wires in the top bit then did it second redpoint. Anyone that says there is no good climbing in Leicester is wrong :)

2nd go.

Last move crux.

2nd rp. Such a good route and psyched to get it done quickly. Suits my style well!

Awesome route! 2nd go.

1st redpoint. Got some good beta from John Dunne!!

First 8a!! its at the soft side of 8a I think but still psyched to do it.

My first route at Kilnsey! My style. Thanks Daf!

Found the slab at the start the hardest part.

Guide says 7b but probably 7a+ at most.

Really good route

Cool route, kind of surprised to get it on 2nd go.

Fell off last move on flash attempt