Description

Anston Stones is by far the largest venue to be found in what was once the esoteric Eastern lime, but which is now anything but! Anston in particular has become a very popular spot, which is hardly surprising given it boasts a large number of problems across an impressive grade spread; this is one of those actually quite rare venues where Font 4 and 5 climbers will have just as good a time as Font 8 climbers. There is genuinely something for everyone here.

The climbing style is generally steep, fingery and positive, albeit perhaps without the ratty nature of central Park limestone; the holds are often more uneven pockets than crimpy edges.

Also unlike the central Peak limestone, the Eastern lime and Anston included is generally climbable year round, with less seepage issues. With some areas facing North, being shady and cool in summer, and others being pleasant South facing winter sun traps, good conditions can often be found although low humidity and a good breeze are always helpful.

Routes on Anston Stones
136 boulder 8 Likes
Photos
Premium topo by Bouldering in Yorkshire
Nick Bradley
from Leeds
Anston Stones

The area is access sensitive!

Access to the Woods has often been tenuous over the years. Most recently, due to climbers crossing the train tracks, a fence was constructed in front of Apprentice Wall; it is strongly suggested climbers avoid this area and Network Rail have indicated anyone caught on the tracks will be prosecuted. As such this area will not be detailed in the topo, although some routes will remain listed for historical accuracy.

Anston Stones Wood is a nature reserve and SSSI, hosting various important habitats and also being significant archaelogically. Evidence of human presence dates back to the Upper Paleolithic era (33,000 to 8,000 BC)!

Some longstanding rules are in place given the area's status as a nature reserve and SSSI:

- No topping out; either drop or down climb.

- Climb only on the existing walls and buttresses listed here; do not attempt to carry out additional gardening or clearance of other areas. Various blocks exist in the woods which must be left to nature. Don't worry, there's enough here to last a very long time for anyone.

- The usual rules apply otherwise; take all your litter home, keep dogs under close control and pick up their poo, absolutely no wire brushing or chipping, etc.