General Description:
Yet more wonderful limestone climbing in the Serra de Prades mountains! Each of Arbolí’s sectors have their own distinct character, ranging from the friendly tree-shrouded buttresses of Can Simiro and Can Mansa, together offering dozens of excellent low and middle grade routes, to the shear, imposing walls of El Dard with its unrelentingly steep face and crack climbs. One sector in particular, the magnificent and imposing bastion of El Falcó, must be a contender for the finest single crag in the region, especially for climbers operating in the 6c-7b range. And if all this were not enough, there are the views — stunning vistas across the valley to Siurana and Montsant.
General Approach: see access
Sectors
L’Obaga
Description: this is a long and disjointed sector, which has seen quite a lot of activity in recent years, resulting in some excellent new climbs, mostly in the higher grades. Some very impressive projects remain to be redpointed.
Approach: Park in a large lay-by at the Coll de La Creu (P1) then take a well-marked footpath diagonally up and leftwards. For routes on the centre and right-hand sections, leave the main path approximately 100m from the parking area and follow a trail steeply uphill to the base of the wall then move either left or right along the foot of the crag to your chosen route (10 - 12 min). For routes on the left-hand side of the sector, continue along the lower path for a further 150m (250m from P1) until a short side-trail leads up to the wall (15 min). Note: 3 routes — Trenkadits, De Postal and Fisura Anal start from a sloping terrace above the main crag, which is reached via a narrow but reasonably well-marked trail beginning from the left-hand side of Can Mansa.
Can Simiro
Description:
A fine and popular sector split into two sections, left and right. Orientation: predominantly southwest — sun after mid-day.
Approach:
From La Coll de La Creu (P1) continue driving for 170m towards the village of Arbolí to a second parking area (P2) on the right-hand side of the road. Follow a path up through the trees to reach the base of the right-hand part of the sector (3 minutes). The left-hand part of the sector lies about 30m further left and the final few metres require a bit of scrambling to reach a terrace below the routes (5 minutes from P2).
Can Mansa
Description:
An extremely popular sector, especially with climbers looking for short climbs in the lower grades. The rock is impeccable and the approach very short. Orientation: south — sun for most of the day.
Approach:
Park in lay-bys on the right-hand side of the road, approximately 400m south of Coll de La Creu (P3). On the opposite side of the road a well-marked path heads up through trees. Near the wall the path splits: take the left fork for routes 1-22; the right fork for routes 23-33 (3 minutes).
La Carbonera
Description:
A nice sector with routes mostly in the easier grades, although there are some short, much harder problems. Orientation: southeast — shade after mid-day.
Approach:
Park in P3, the same as for Can Mansa. From here walk down the road (towards the village) for a few metres then follow a path up and right to the base of the sector (3 minutes). This crag can also be reached from the right-hand side of Can Mansa.
Placa Duc & El Duc
Description:
Placa Duc is a short slab with mostly 4th grade routes and is popular with families and beginners. The pinnacle of El Duc is quite impressive and is well worth a visit. As usual for Arbolí, the rock is predominantly vertical and of superb quality. Orientation (Placa Duc): southeast; Orientation (El Duc): this varies between southeast and southwest.
Approach:
from P3 walk a few metres back up the road towards the Coll de la Creu then turn left onto a dirt track, which is followed downhill. Placa Duc is soon seen to the left, just below the road (1 minute), while the pinnacle of El Duc is situated approximately 200m further down, just to the right of the track (3 minutes).
El Cremat
Description:
a pleasant little sector with a very short approach and some good climbing in the V – 6c range. Orientation: south — sun for most of the day.
Approach:
approximately 650m southeast of the Coll de la Creu (driving towards the village) there is a narrow surfaced track, signposted Sant Pau and Mas del Salin, zigzagging up the hillside. Drive up this for approximately 800m to park just after a sharp left-hand bend (P4). Walk a few metres back down the road then follow an obvious footpath down and across to the left-hand end of the sector (2 minutes).
L'Ermita
Description: although more famous for its excellent bouldering, L'Ermita nevertheless offers some very nice roped climbing, although the routes are shorter in length than in most of Arbolí's other sectors.
Approach: as for El Cremat, but continue driving up the narrow road to a spacious parking area (P5) situated immediately before reaching L’Ermita de Sant Pau (approximately 350m from P4). On foot, walk through the grounds of L’Ermita then follow an obvious well-marked path leading horizontally rightwards to reach the left-hand end of the sector (3 min). Various side-trails lead up to the individual buttresses.
El Falcó and L’Obaga del Falcó
Description:
the magnificent orange and grey wall of El Falcó is one of the most stunning sectors in the whole of the Tarragona region. The climbing is generally vertical or slightly overhanging and many of the pitches are very long and sustained. Orientation: southwest — sun from early/mid-afternoon. L’Obaga del Falcó lies just to the left, around the corner, but its shady aspect makes it feel far less attractive than its near neighbour. Nevertheless, the climbing is excellent and there are some very fine 7th and 8th grade routes here. Orientation: northwest — shade until late afternoon.
Approach:
approximately 650m southeast of the Coll de la Creu (driving towards the village) there is a narrow surfaced track, signposted Sant Pau and Mas del Salin, zigzagging up the hillside. Follow this for approximately 500m then turn left onto an unsurfaced track signposted Mas del Salin, and continue along this for approximately 950m to a limited parking area (P5) in clear view of the crag. On foot, follow a well-marked trail (cairns) down to the base of the wall (5 minutes). Continue leftwards around the corner to reach L’Obaga del Falcó (10 minutes from P5).
El Dard
Description:
An awesome sector featuring some stunning routes! Orientation: south — sun for most of the day.
Approach:
from the village of Arbolí drive south on the TV-7012. Approximately 400m past the junction with the TV-7092 there is an exposed limestone ‘mesa’ on the left-hand side of the road. Park here (P6). On foot, follow a well-marked footpath southwards (cairns). The path zigzags down through a wide gully then turns left (facing out) to reach the left-hand end of the sector (10 minutes).
El Racó de L’Emanuelle
Description:
A nice wall. The best climbs are mostly in the 6th grade but there are a few excellent harder routes. Orientation: southeast — shade from mid-afternoon.
Approach:
from the village of Arbolí drive south on the TV-7012. On the right-hand side of the road at the Km-3 marker is a large grassy parking area. Approximately 80m further on, turn left onto an unsurfaced track running along the upper rim of a quarry, and follow this for 100m to parking places on the left (P7). On foot, continue along the track for a further 150m to where it fades out then follow a well-marked footpath (cairns), which leads first down and right, and then back leftwards, descending an open gully. At the base of the gully continue leftwards to reach the first routes on the extreme left-hand side of the sector (10 minutes).
