Description

A large crag that is very popular mostly because of many easy, bolted routes. Apart from the bolted routes there are also several trad routes here that makes Aspen a quite complete crag (except for the hardest grades). Unfortunately, the crag is a bit ledgy so the routes are not as long as you might think at first.

ASPECT AND CLIMATE
All sectors except Mumindalen face south or southwest and catch a lot of sun during the day. Mumindalen faces east and is in the shade after noon. The lower parts of the crag are partially shaded by trees while the upper ones are in the sun for most of the day. The crack routes can stay wet for a long time after rain while the face routes dry quite quickly. Some of the routes might have a bit of a “sandy” feeling after longer periods of rain.
There are good swimming possibilities in the lake below the crag.

THE ROUTES
The climbing in Aspen is mostly vertical or slabby but here you can also find a couple of overhanging but short routes. Almost all the bolted routes are equipped with lower-offs. The rock is quite soft which should be considered if you plan to climb the trad routes.

THE SECTORS
NALLE PUH is the sector at the left end of the crag. Here you’ll find some of the best routes in Aspen (that means there are almost always climbers here). Trees shade the sector and some of the routes dry quite slowly.
SHERIFFEN is the middle part of the crag with some slabby trad routes and the hardest (bolted) routes of the crag. Trees in its lower part shade the sector. Some of the cracks stay wet for a while after rain.
FIKAHYLLAN is a quite small and a bit slabby sector with some of the easiest bolted routes of the guide. A perfect place for beginners. The sector is not shaded and the routes dry fast.
Rest of the sectors (AMARETTO, COLUMBUSHYLLAN, ÖVERSTA HYLLAN, HIGHWAYHYLLAN and MUMINDALEN) are quite small with up to five routes per sector. The sectors are seldom visited and the routes there (most of them are trad) are quite dirty. Of all these sectors Mumindalen (situated just above the car park) is perhaps most worth a visit with some relatively easy, bolted routes.

History

The crag was originally developed around 1990 when most of the trad lines and many bolted lines were done. Thereafter new routes has been established now and then with a peak around 2005.

The old bolted routes has been mostly re-bolted up to a modern standard.

Aspen

The area is access sensitive!

Do not park on the road in front of the crag (use the parking lot).

Thieves have been active on the parking lot, do not leave any valuables in the car.

Do not stand and belay on the road in front of the crag. The people who live in the area do not appreciate that.

Do not top rope directly in the anchors. Clip the rope into your carabiners.

Check even https://access.bergsport.se/aspen/.

🚗
From Göteborg take motorway E20 eastward. Leave the motorway at exit 84, Hulanmotet (signs for Lerum V), and drive towards Lerum along Aspenvägen, parallel to the motorway. Turn left and drive under the motorway and then turn left again at a roundabout onto Aspenäsvägen which eventually changes name to Strandvägen. Follow the road along the lake and keep left onto Seatons allé. At the end of Seatons allé turn left onto Goråsvägen. Follow it until the public road ends. A big parking lot is on the right-hand side.
The drive is about 22 km.
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The approaches to the different sectors are given below.
Nalle Puh: From the car park follow the road for some hundred meters and you’ll see the crag to the right. Sector Nalle Puh is the left part of the crag.
Sheriffen: From the parking lot follow the road for some hundred meters and you’ll see the crag to the right. Sector Sheriffen is the middle part of the crag.
Fikahyllan: From the car park follow the obvious path into the forest. Keep left when the path forks and you’ll reach the sector after a while.
For the rest of the sectors, please see the map for approach..