Description

Quite a big crag shaped like a U with sectors facing different directions wonderfully located at Kolström, a narrow channel between Ingarö and Farstalandet. Beatelund is not a first-hand choice when it comes to rock quality because the rock is a bit loose and broken. On the other hand, this place has an unusually relaxed and calm atmosphere along with a magnificent view from the top.

Down at the water at the overhanging wall there is a big flat ledge that fits perfectly for sunbathing and some picnic. Here you can relax in the sun, climb a little and then maybe go for a swim - with those criteria, this crag is a nice alternative despite the somewhat bad rock quality.

Beatelund houses four sectors with different angles, heights and quality. Most of the traditional routes are at Svaväggen and the rock quality here is slightly better than in other sectors. This sector doesn't get many visits and it probably needs quite a lot of brushing. The climbs on the right side of this sector located over the water look quite cool and you should at least check it out.

Örnnästet is a small quite nice seven meters high slightly overhanging wall located 20 meters above the water. The rock quality in this little sector is quite ok actually. You can "walk" down to the wall (which might be a bit scary and adventurous) via a gutter (ränna) from the top of the crag. Some bolted or mixed routes. Climbable, but would benefit if some proper bolting were done.

On the other walls, there are mostly bolted routes, though not always perfectly bolted and with some uncomfortable clips at times. The bolts are not always perfectly placed and the climbing can be a bit demanding although the grading is not that difficult. Don't forget there is an anchor at the top where you can abseil down to a couple of routes if you want to rig a toprope (look at the topo on sector Sidoväggen). The routes at Överhängande väggen are mainly short, steep and quite ok bolted.

This is not a suitable crag for small kids as the terrain is quite steep and uneven adjacent to the walls. Bring a brush as some of the routes may be dirty, but the steeper ones are generally ok.

Environment:
Mostly south facing and open for the sun, but some trees at the flanks give some shade here and there at the base.

History

First route was made in 1979 by Lars Svadängs. Then nothing happened until mid nineties when Mats Olofsson with friends made a bunch of routes. Mats routes are often characterised with funny names and sometimes a bit sparse bolted as well. Over the years some more routes have been done by different Stockholm climbers.

There are still some possibilities for new routes here but be aware that the crag lies on private land belonging to Beatelund's manor located about 250 meters northwest of the crag.

Beatelund

The area is access sensitive!

It is absolutely forbidden for anyone to park along the road in the curve closest to the crag. The land owner have already pointed this out.

Directions: Take Route 222 towards Värmdö. Turn off towards Ingarö and follow Ingarövägen about 1.5 km. Then turn right onto Beatelundsvägen (sign Beatelund). Drive about 1.3 km to a left curve and downhill. Park in a gravel area at the side of the road, close to a road boom (but don't block the road boom!). Walk about 500 meters to a sharp right curve and meeting place. Go through a gate and follow some indistinct paths up the mountain and keep leftward up the hill if you want to locate the anchor and rig some toprope above Sidoväggen, or continue around the crag if you want to get there by foot. If you want to visit Svaväggen follow the path more to the right. The walk don't take more than five minutes. Parking is not allowed along the road where you enter the forest trough the little gate.

Public transport: Bus leaves from Slussen, for example. Buss stop; Beatelundsvägen. Then about thirty minutes walk to the crag.