Single granite boulder with a collection of easier slabs but also one harder vertical problem and a project or two.
❗ Note: Climb without removing lichen or other vegetation from the boulder and do not leave chalk marks or tick marks.
The boulder lies close to the water, it can be quite wet below so the best season is when it hasn't rained in a while. Otherwise the landings are good and a pad (preferably suitable for highballs) is usually enough. The boulder is easy to climb down from.
⭐ Recommended problems
Half-hearted, 7A - A sharp and tricky arête
Left lung slab, 4+
Crow cape road, 4
This boulder has been known for a long time by the local climbers on Öland. But has it been climbed on? Probably not. It was described as ”boring and difficult to access with few potentials. One side is lika a slide and if you fall you will likely end up in a big puddle of water. The other side is climable but the ground is full of thorn-bushes.” The area was also known to be one of the most snake infested areas on the island. With that in mind it is no surprise that the boulder was left alone minding its own business on the brink of the Östersjön garding the path to the old lighthouse. Could all this be true you wonder? Well, apart from the thornbushes that have been taken care of by grazing cattle….yes.
But still, if you are on the island, and getting tired of outlet shops and beaches, the boulder will present a good hour of distraction from your vacation.
