Brakmaren consists of two very overhanging and entertaining gym crags with approximately ten meters long well-bolted sports routes, one of them (Vägklippan) is easily accessible just a few meters from the roadside, and the other one (Sjöklippan) is located another 200 meters further away down towards the water. Great parking space is available nearby. This crag is highly recommended on hot sunny days as the wall is facing northeast. The climbing is generally a bit bouldery and intense but some of the routes are thankfully fitted with fairly large holds. The rock is mostly solid and of surprisingly high quality, but slightly looser sections do exist. Great news; some big trees have been cut down in front of sector Vägklippan making it much more open and airy at the crag now, really nice! Brakmaren is located only 25 minute's drive from Gullmarsplan.
The rock is littered with loads of bolts and some of the many variations/linkups might be difficult to understand. The tip is to choose the lines that look obvious. Be aware that some of the routes might need some brushing from time to time (bring a brush). Most of the routes are clean year 2023. Nowadays there are more anchors at the top, but some links are missing here and there. Sjöklippan is fully equipped with ring anchors on all routes.
The ground below the crag (Vägklippan) is pretty flat and works well if you have children with you, but you have to remember that the road is right next to the wall. The other wall (Sjöklippan) is not so child-friendly because the ground slopes quite a bit.
Environment:
Northeast. Vägklippan is more open now since some trees have been cut down (2023-05-10). There may be some sun on the wall during the early morning and until around lunchtime, but after that, this crag will be in the shade all day and evening. Vägklippan is located next to a minor road but cars do not pass that often, so it's not disturbing at all. Sjöklippan is peacefully located in the forest with glimpses out over a little lake.
