Description

☀️SUN DURING THE DAY: afternoon

🧭EXPOSURE: West

📆BEST PERIOD: 3-11

👪FAMILY FRIENDLY: Yes in almost every cliff. No in Cengia degli Infami (upper part) and Condor.

🇬🇧
⛰️Peaceful and pleasant environment, Attico is an extended rock band This fascinating place mainly offers climbs on technical vertical walls and some short sections of the roof. The Infami sector has two distinct parts: one on the right with gray rock and the other on the left, where there is an abandoned quarry with overhanging routes requiring great physical strength.
Superpanza is an obvious gap that begins and ends on a rocky slab. The Placca dei Maleducati, on the other hand, is a crag that lends itself more to spring climbing, despite its exposure to the west. It offers 50 itineraries, 34 of which are new, offering a variety of inclinations. The difficulties range from 5a to 7c, with developments ranging from 15 to 37 meters for the individual routes.
The limestone of the Finalese area, renowned for sport and exploratory climbing, continues to offer new lines, suitable for both more expert climbers and families and beginners. Recently, a group led by Giorgio Delfino created a new crag, called Falesia del Condor, which offers around fifteen itineraries. This crag faces west and enjoys afternoon sun. It is located above the Placca dei Maleducati and offers climbing routes of moderate and easy difficulty.
The nailer recommends paying attention to the presence of stones at the base of the face, as they could fall into the cliff below. Therefore, it is important to exercise extreme caution when climbing and to ensure that the area below is free from potential hazards.
Gli indomiti, on the other hand, is a small sector with some routes on easy levels.

🇮🇹
⛰️Ambiente tranquillo e piacevole, la falesia dell'Attico è una fascia rocciosa estesa Questo affascinante luogo offre principalmente scalate su muri verticali tecnici e alcuni brevi tratti di tetto. La sezione degli Infami presenta due parti distinte: una a destra con roccia grigia e l'altra a sinistra, dove si trova una cava dismessa con vie strapiombanti e richiedenti grande forza fisica.
Superpanza é un evidente spancio che inizia e termina su una placca rocciosa. La Placca dei Maleducati, invece, è una falesia che si presta maggiormente alle scalate primaverili, nonostante la sua esposizione a ovest. Offre ben 50 itinerari, di cui 34 nuovi, che offrono una varietà di inclinazioni. Le difficoltà spaziano dal 5a al 7c, con sviluppi che vanno dai 15 ai 37 metri per le singole vie.
Il calcare della zona di Finalese, rinomata per l'arrampicata sportiva ed esplorativa, continua a regalare nuove linee, adatte sia agli scalatori più esperti che alle famiglie e ai principianti. Recentemente, un gruppo guidato da Giorgio Delfino ha creato una nuova falesia, chiamata Falesia del Condor, che offre una quindicina di itinerari. Questa falesia si trova ad ovest e gode del sole nel pomeriggio. È posizionata sopra la Placca dei Maleducati e offre scalate su percorsi di difficoltà moderata e facile.
Il chiodatore consiglia di fare attenzione alla presenza di sassi alla base della parete, in quanto potrebbero cadere nella falesia sottostante. Pertanto, è importante prestare la massima attenzione durante l'arrampicata e assicurarsi che la zona sottostante sia libera da potenziali pericoli.
Gli indomiti invece è un piccolo settore con qualche via su livelli facili.

🇩🇪
⛰️Der Penthouse-Felsen ist eine friedliche und angenehme Umgebung und ein ausgedehntes Felsband. Dieser faszinierende Ort bietet hauptsächlich Anstiege an technischen Vertikalwänden und einigen kurzen Abschnitten des Daches. Der Infami-Abschnitt besteht aus zwei unterschiedlichen Teilen: einem auf der rechten Seite mit grauem Fels und dem anderen auf der linken Seite, wo sich ein verlassener Steinbruch mit überhängenden Routen befindet, die große körperliche Kraft erfordern.
Superpanza ist eine offensichtliche Lücke, die auf einer Felsplatte beginnt und endet. Die Placca dei Maleducati hingegen ist trotz ihrer Westausrichtung ein Fels, der sich eher zum Frühjahrsklettern eignet. Es bietet 50 Routen, davon 34 neue, mit unterschiedlichen Steigungen. Die Schwierigkeitsgrade reichen von 5a bis 7c, wobei die Ausbaustufen der einzelnen Routen zwischen 15 und 37 Metern liegen.
Der Kalkstein der Region Finalese, bekannt für Sport- und Forschungsklettern, bietet weiterhin neue Routen, die sowohl für erfahrenere Kletterer als auch für Familien und Anfänger geeignet sind. Kürzlich hat eine Gruppe unter der Leitung von Giorgio Delfino einen neuen Felsen namens Falesia del Condor geschaffen, der etwa fünfzehn Routen bietet. Dieser Felsen ist nach Westen ausgerichtet und genießt die Nachmittagssonne. Es liegt oberhalb der Placca dei Maleducati und bietet Kletterrouten mit mittlerem und leichtem Schwierigkeitsgrad.
Der Nagler empfiehlt, auf das Vorhandensein von Steinen am Fuß der Wand zu achten, da diese in die darunter liegende Klippe fallen könnten. Daher ist es wichtig, beim Aufstieg äußerste Vorsicht walten zu lassen und sicherzustellen, dass der darunter liegende Bereich frei von potenziellen Gefahren ist.
Gli Indomiti hingegen ist ein kleiner Abschnitt mit einigen Routen auf leichtem Niveau.

History

CENGIA DEGLI INFAMI Initially, only two routes ('Barbagianni' and 'Mancorrente') were equipped by Gianni Duregato and Matteo Caropreso in 2010. The rest of the crag was bolted in 2020 by Geppe, Mauro and Davide Carena.All routes except OLD STYLE ( Gino Pittaluga ) and MANIMAN ( Angelo Bosco ) have been freed by Davide Carena.
MURO DEGLI INDOMITI was bolted by Mauro Rossi in 2019
ATTICO: the old routes were equipped during the 80's, were rebolted in 2016 from guido Nota, helped by Dario Santunione, and they allso bolted new lines, only the lines "Piccola Bazar dei sogni" and "L'ultima luna di autunno" are not rebolted yet.
SUPERPANZA was discovered in 1974 from Gianni Ghiglione, Alessandro Grillo, Umberto Lemucchi and Vittorio Simonetti, the first climbed line was "Via Emma", the other famous line then was "Superpanza" opened on 1975 from Gian Carlo Croci and Alessandro Grillo. Recently Superpanza has rediscovered its value by the work of Matteo Felanda and Marco Pukli that have bolted new lines on the right of the cliff between the 2006 and 2007.
PLACCA DEI MALEUCATI was bolted on 2002 from G. Garbi, M. Barilati and R. Cavalleris. The previous lines that have been rebolted had been equipped by various people between the 1980 and the 1994.
Cleaning and rebolting were realized between 2005 and 2006 from Marco Tomassini and Daniele Canale.
CONDOR: a new cliff bolted by Giorgio Delfino on 2022.
MURO DEGLI INDOMITI: bolted by Mauro Rossi on 2019.
FALESIA DELLA PULCE: bolted by Giorgio Delfino on 2012.