Description

🧗
Climbing in this area can be quite diversified. Though you can find some overhanging powerful routes, technical climbing on vertical walls and towers is predominantly. There are easy slabs for beginners and classical routes through chimneys, cracks, arêtes and dihedrals, as well.

🌼🌞🍂❄️
Here you can climb all years through. The south facing sectors "Burglesauer Gebiet", Stephansturm" and partly "Katzenbuckel" can get pleasant warm in wintertime when the sun comes out. The other sectors "Stübiger Türme" and "Altenburgwand" you better visit in spring or autumn.

💧
Especially "Burglesauer Gebiet" is very exposed what makes it dry very fast within an hour after rain. But there's no rain protection at all sectors but the downhill side of "großer/kleiner Stübiger Turm". "Altenburgwand" stays wet for ages and moss grows faster than you can climb the routes.

👶
Best recommended with kids is "Burglesauer Gebiet", it has short access and a flat base. "Stübiger Türme" are quite ok, as well, but the access is longer and the base is quite uneven. All other sectors have steeper terrain with potential gaps.

🍽🍻🛌
There's no close camping but you can find a lot of accommodations around. Next bigger town for shopping is "Schesslitz".

🏊 🎸
There's an open air swimming pool in "Schesslitz". If everything is wet or you need a resting day you should visit the historic center of "Bamberg".

💎 Goodies

soft:
- Ansbacher Verschneidung

medium:
- Dornröschen
- Happy End
- N'djamidjami
- Knochriss
- Via Maria

hard:
- Direkter B.B. Weg
- Leichte 10
- Kurze Zeit Unendlichkeit

Scheßlitz Nord

Climbing has been limited!

⛔️ 🦅
"Großer Stübiger Turm" is closed die to bird breeding from 1st of February to 30th of June.

This crag combines actually three different crags around the village "Stübig".

Burglesauer Gebiet & Stephansturm:

🚗 Approaching via Motorway A70 exit at "Schesslitz" and drive towards "Stübig". Between "Schesslitz" and "Stübig" turn right towards "Burglesau". Pass the Village and drive up the valley until you find a parking after about 760 meters behind the village.

🚶‍♂️ Go back towards "Burglesau" for about 60 meters and turn right up the hill following the sings to the alpine rescue service hut.
After 300 meters you reach the hut and can spot the sector "Burglesauergebiet" to your right up the hill. Take the foot path up the hill.
Stay on the hiking trassier for further 300 meters and take a small foot path to your right up the hill to the sector "Stephansturm".

Großer & Kleiner Stübiger Turm:

🚗 Approaching via Motorway A70 exit at "Schesslitz" and drive towards "Stübig". 150 meters before the village "Stübig" leave your car at the parking to your left.

🚶‍♂️ Go ahead towards "Stübig" and take the second way to your right (the first road after the town sign)
go up the hill for 350 meters and then turn left. Follow the forest road bending right towards the forest. as soon as you enter the forest take the left trail leading up to the towers after about 250 meters.

Katzenbuckel & Altenburgwand:
❗️ Beware of rock falls when goats are here

🚗 Approaching via Motorway A70 exit at "Schesslitz" and drive towards "Stübig". In "Stübig" take the left road at the junction towards "Dörrnwasserlos". Drive up the hill and turn on the forest road to your left just in the firs hairpin bend after 1.15 km. Park here at the side of the forest road.

🚶‍♂️ "Katzenbuckel" is just to your right up the hill. There's a short track leading to the sector. To get to "Altenburgwand" go ahead on the forest road for 170 meters until the road bends left. Get on the foot path to your right following the creek to your right. After 180 meters you can spot the sector to your left. Take the foot path leading to the base.