Description

Scivoli 🚶‍♂️ 1' - ⛰️ 100 MSL - 🧭 N/NW - ☀️ late afternoon
Strapiombi 🚶‍♂️ 1' - ⛰️ 100 MSL - 🧭 NE - ☀️ only in the early morning
Scudo - Ceraino classica 🚶‍♂️ 1-5' - ⛰️ 100 MSL - 🧭 E - ☀️ during the morning
Placca del Bruno 🚶‍♂️ 10' - ⛰️ 150 MSL - 🧭 E - ☀️ during the morning
Sipario delle ombre 🚶‍♂️ 15' - ⛰️ 150 MSL - 🧭 E - ☀️ during the morning

Ceraino is an historic crag on the side of Adige river in the province of Verona.
It extends on the steep slopes of the mount Rocca di Rivoli and overlooks Mount Baldo to the north and Lake Garda to the west.
All this area is an archaeological site with medieval fortifications, having found many historical artifacts on the summit.
Ceraino is very quiet, has an extremely short approach and many easy routes also for families. Total number of lines exceeds 200, with a high concentration of difficulties in the 5+/6b range. There are also many 4 grade routes on slabs and something up to 7c on overhangs.
The rock is limestone of generally good quality, with pockets, crimps, cracks and chimneys.

There are five sectors: Scivoli, Strapiombi, Scudo - Ceraino classica, Placca del Bruno and Sipario delle ombre.
Scivoli sector features nice gray slabs that turn out to be really good for children and beginners. Here it is possible to learn how to properly use your feet and feel your balance. We suggest wearing a helmet since some small pieces of rock could fall from above. The base of the wall is ok.
Strapiombi sector has the hardest routes. Walls are steep and dark and climbing is really athletic. Crag base is comfortable.
Scudo - Ceraino classica is the biggest sector, with many multi-pitches on slabs and vertical walls. Routes are crimpy and technical along chimneys and cracks. Approach can be a bit adventurous and the trail is equipped with a steel cable.
Amongst the Multi-pitches we remember the historic amazing line of Scoglio di Rufus.
Placca del bruno is a compact 45 meters slab starting from a ledge above the Adige river. At the base there is a steel cable that can be used to help the belayer. To reach the sector it is necessary to rappel down for 40 meters. Routes are technical on a compact gray rock, around the 6a difficulty.
Finally, Sipario delle ombre has a high concentration of hard routes. There are 20 lines mainly around the 7a/7c difficulties. Climbing here is more athletic on pockets, tufas and crimps and requires good finger strength. Just like Placca del Bruno, this sector is located on an exposed and beautiful ledge, take care.

Best seasons to climb here are Spring and Autumn, even if it is possible to enjoy some Summer days, if they are not too hot.

Ceraino is really close to lake Garda and other great crags such as Garda and Forte San Marco. In addition to the climbing, there are nice attractions and good restaurants in the nearby cities, the lake is very close and there are also some thermal spas. Consider taking a boat trip on the lake to fully enjoy your vacation!

History

These walls were discovered in 1979 by team Nani of GASV Verona, led by Bruno Bettio and Beppo Zanini. The style of the first routes was pure alpinistic, with bolts and few spits.
In the following years, the work has been further developed by Sergio Coltri, Eugenio Cipriani and Luigi Pinamonte.
Emanuele and Nicola Sartori developed Sipario delle ombre in the 80s.