Like all crags on Penteli mt. Dionysos is established on the walls of an old marble quarry. Marble extraction of course has ceased long ago, leaving behind an interesting climbing venue. Climbing here features vertical faces, cracks, arêtes and occasionally overhangs and roofs. Marble always involves an interesting kinesiology which can be considered a kind of its own.
Dionysos, is the last part of the mountain where the forest still remains intact whereas all the rest has been destroyed by forest fires. The place is usually cool enough to climb even in the summer. Rock quality is generally good, however one should always remain vigilant as loose rock parts might still be present, especially in the most recent routes. The place offers a great variety of routes especially on the lower and middle range of difficulties.
Although the routes are not especially high they are quite aesthetic in general. Combined with the fact that the place has a hospitable aura (which also makes it ideal for children or non-climbers,), it certainly worth’s a visit.
The route setting at the time of writing is ongoing therefore new routes are likely to be added (or the existing top-rope routes to be equipped with bolts) on top of those presented here-in.
Description
History
As mentioned above, the crag is hosted at an old marble quarry which has been transformed into an open air museum. The climbing potential of the place was originally discovered on 1998 by M. Karathanos and N. Kalaitzakis who opened the majority of routes there. However most of these routes were not equipped or were equipped only with an anchor and could only be repeated top-rope. In the following years the place had practically been abandoned, seeing very few visits, only until Y. Poulidis rediscovered it and decided to maintain/rebolt the older routes (with the consensus of the original setters) and also open new ones. At the time of writing the place has 11 fully bolted sport routes and 3 trad routes.