The best summer crag in Västra Götaland? In 2019 Djäknesundet gained regard as Sweden’s 7th most beautiful beach after being handpicked from a staggering list of 1000 beaches. It’s come to be known as ‘the Greece of Sweden’. With the discovery of some great climbing along with a couple of DWS spots, the experience of a holiday in Greece becomes even more immersive.
The quality of the rock is supreme, and although most of the routes are vertical, there are a few sections of cliff that sport steeper, gently overhanging faces. There is a good variety of different holds, but most of the climbing is done on crimps and cracks, and big moves are not uncommon. A lot of the problems are tall and exceed 4 meters. Some are 8 metres high.
The cliff stretches along the waters edge, so you can set up your pads and use them to climb or as sun beds after you go for a cooling swim. The rock is typically shaded, so it’s workable even on those hot summer days.
