Description

Mighty southwest-facing wall nicely located next to a stone beach with a tremendous view over the bay. Here you will find many easy and mid-graded bolted climbs on excellent but a bit slippery rock.

The rock quality is super solid, very compact, and has a lot of bulgy round formations. The easier routes are generally angled below vertical, but some are a bit steeper and sometimes slightly overhanging. Because of the compact quality, the climbing can be a bit slippery if you are not used to it, or if you fribble with your foot-placements, especially on hot summer days. Due to the compact quality, the climbing can be a bit demanding with some tricky slab sections, and sometimes the bolts are a bit spread out which might make you a bit shaky despite a relatively easy grade.

The wall faces southwest and catches the sun after 13 p.m. in the afternoon. There are some trees in front of the wall, but they do not give so much shade. In early spring, the rock may need a few sunny days to dry up, especially if it has been a snowy winter. This is a very nice evening crag as the sun is on the wall until it sets in the sea. Some road noise can be heard from Road 222.

It's possible to reach some of the anchors from above without rappelling on the left side of the crag, although you have to be a bit careful.

The bolts marked on the sketches are located where the bolt really sits, however, there are more bolts on the routes than the markings show, especially higher up on the wall.

History

In the old Stockholm guidebook, this wall was described as a crag that wasn't as good as you might think. It was hard to believe it wasn't that good as the wall looked massive and great seeing it from a distance when passing it on the highway.

When Thomas "Helium" Hansson moved to Nacka not far from the crag he made a couple of bolted routes. After a while additional climbers joined and continued to develop the rock. Some of the routes were quite sparsely bolted at first but some renovation has been done over the years and today most of the routes are pretty alright protected.

Ekoberget

The area is access sensitive!

Going by car:
Take road 222 east from Stockholm, and turn off towards Skevik (signposted). Follow the road 950 meters and take the first left onto Värmdövägen. After 1.85 km turn left onto Graningevägen (directly after a Football field on the right). Follow the road approximately 300 meters and park on a small dirt road 70 meters before the bridge, on the left side. It is very important to park well aside so that any tractor can pass on that same dirt road. This is a private road, but the landowner has given us permission to park here.

Going with public transport:
Take bus to Kihls gård. From the bus stop there is a fifteen minute walk to the crag.
Plan your trip: https://sl.se/en/

The path to the cliff enters the forest 50 meters after the bridge at the nature reserve sign. Follow the path through the forest and follow the path to the right down around the cliff. Paths that divide to the left leads up to the top of the crag, quite high above the routes.