Description

With its roadside approach, bouldering, sport and trad climbing, slabs, cracks and overhangs; Erikstein is the largest and most versatile crag in Bø. The rock is normally of superb quality and is dominated by crimps, edges and cracks, typical of granite gneiss. Some routes and boulders are climbable year-round, and it's not uncommon to climb here in winter, despite of snow. Sun-exposed walls dry extremely fast, and can be climbed shortly after a rainfall. On days where the weather is warm, you can try the climbing located in the forest shade, which will feel noticeably cooler than on the outside.

Erikstein is separated into three main sectors: Første-, Andre- and Tredje Etasje (which translates to first-, second- and third floor). The area near the parking and alongside the road belongs to Første Etasje. All sport and trad climbing is found here. In addition, Første Etasje also has plenty of boulder problems. Andre and Tredje Etasje is reached via an uphill approach of 10-15 minutes, and is exclusively a bouldering area where the hardest and most spectacular lines can be found. This topo deals with Første Etasje only, and hopefully Andre and Tredje will be available in a separate topo in the future.

History

The first recorded activity on Erikstein was in the beginning of the 90s, where several lines on the slabs and cracks were established. The walls were also used as training grounds for aid climbing, especially the wall over the parking area. Over the years, more routes were added and today you can find trad and sport routes beginning in the 4th grade, as well as harder sport routes up to 8a+.

Around 1998, Klaus Sandvik was the main driving force behind establishing the bouldering in Første Etasje, which made Erikstein the main bouldering spot in Bø. From the mid 00s onwards, the bouldering in Andre and Tredje Etasje was developed, and Erikstein was now one of Norways top bouldering destinations. An annual climbing festival (Ballesteinfestivalen) was also hosted here for a brief period.