Description

Attention! A Huge rockfall occurred (2024) at the right part of Sjöväggen. The routes that are likely to be affected are; Bläckfisken, Kapten Haddock, Fasta former and Ada. The start of Tintin and Milou are also affected by the rock fall. The wall has not yet been examined more closely and there may still be loose material left that could fall down.

Important information: There is only space for 3 cars next to the electric house in the intersection of Lillängdalsvägen / Dundervägen. If it is full, parking somewhere else in the intersection is completely out of the question! The road association is very angry at those who have done this!

This is probably Stockholm's most exotic location if you want to climb entertaining and overhanging sports routes in an equally spectacular environment. The scenery is simply just stunning. The approach is somewhat tricky but it doesn't take more than fifteen minutes from the parking. The main sectors are Sjöväggen and Högklint. Do not expect to be able to climb on both walls on the same day since the approach trail is rather tiring. If you haven't been here before Sjöklippan is typically your first hand choice. Weather conditions can vary greatly and hot days might work if you got a fresh breeze blowing along the wall. In spring and autumn, it's probably best if the wind is really calm. During July and weekends, boat traffic can be quite intense.

Sjöväggen:
The location with the overhanging wall over the water and its perfect sunbathing rocks below makes this relatively small crag quite matchless in Stockholm. The steep wall partly hangs out over the water but there is a land tongue under the cliff which makes the routes accessible. The wall is about 15 m high and hangs over 1-2 meters. Generally has good rock quality, but there are some loose sections here and there. Sjöväggen can be difficult to locate and includes an easier down-climbing passage which makes it unsuitable for kids. Although there are some easy routes here the best span is between 6c-8a. The sun strikes the wall at around midday and doesn't leave until it sets in the evening.

Högklint:
The routes at Högklint are shorter but more overhanging than Sjöklippan and the climbing is more bouldery and intense. The main attraction is the route Salt Sill and a couple of variations next to it. The little wall above (Balkongen) has a couple of quite nice and steep but very short easier routes that might work if you don't climb so hard, especially if combined with a swim. A little wall 50 meters south of Högklint called "Lilla grottan" has recently been developed. There are only two routes at Lilla grottan but they are steep and fun and worth a go. The approach is easier for Högklint compared with Sjöklippan. Högklint is facing south but it's so steep that the sun barely strikes the wall during June/July. The Balcony is in the shade until two or three clocks in the afternoon.

Svaväggen:
About fifteen meters high slab wall that goes straight down into the water, located between Högklint and Sjöklippan. The route starts from a ledge and you have to rappel down. These routes are almost never climbed so bring a brush.

Svaväggen DWS:
Take the same approach as to Lilla Grottan, but follow the waterline south to Svaväggen where you can reach the start of the DWS routes dry by walking over a rocky 'beach'.

History

Finnsvedsberget is mentioned in the Stockholm climbing guide from 1996 but nothing was reported. When Anders Granander sailed past the cliff in 1998 he called Mikael Widerberg and together they set out to try and find the place that Anders sailed past. After much wandering in the forests (no GPS or cellphones) they found what today is called Högklint. They also discovered that someone had already been bolting a route through the large protruding roof (Ska ni Joppa (6c), Mats Olofsson, Claes Thornberg). It looked ok but they did not feel overwhelmed by what they found, so they wandered further south along the water hoping to find something even better.

Soon they discover a cliff that was so steep that they didn't really dare to lean over the edge. Since they had no rope they had to get down to the base off the cliff on foot which turned out to be very cumbersome and awkward. Finally, Mikael found a possible way down to the bottom of the cliff and it was a great surprise to see that it was possible to access all of the wall from underneath. Mikael immediately realizes the crag's sporty potential and soon begins to make new routes. After a few months, Johan Luhr also joined in and started to develop Högklint.

Finnsvedsberget

The area is access sensitive!

It is not allowed to park anywhere on the road at the intersection Lillängdalsvägen / Dundervägen except for three car spaces next to the electric house. If these three spaces are occupied, YOU MUST drive 4 km back to the first parking space. It is ABSOLUTELY FORBIDDEN to park ANYWHERE ELSE at the intersection. The road association is very angry with us at the moment and we climbers must handle this in a good way now!

Directions to Sjöväggen:
Drive Värmdöleden (222) towards Gustavsberg. Turn off towards Ingarö (646). After 2 km you pass a bridge, turn right immediately after the bridge and follow Lillängsdalsvägen for about 4 km. Park at the intersection Lillängdalsvägen / Dundervägen next to an electric house. Please note that there is only room for 3 cars here. If it is full, you MUST go back 4 km and park at the parking lot at Bergviksvägen. Then follow Dundervägen to its end. The path that takes at divides immediately, take left. The path immediately divides again, take left again. After about 100 meters follow the path to the right (from here there are green dots leading all the way down to Sjöklippan). After 200 m the path divides, turn left. After 50 m you start to approach the water and the rocks. Continue another 30-50 m along the path. Turn to left towards the water via a sloping slope and "open street" in the terrain (there is usually a small cairn (röse) to the right of the path that indicates where to turn towards the water). If you depart too early from the path, you will end up among cabins by the water. it's absolutely forbidden to go this way or along the coast to the crag. If you go wrong, back away, it has turned out that there are very aggressive homeowners here. Through different "floors", you will reach down to the water. At one passage keep right near the wall to avoid sliding down into the loose gravel, at another passage you hold a narrow tree and make an easier down climb (2 meters). The cliff is 50 m to the right when you have reached all the way down to the water.

Directions to Högklint:
Same as for Sjöväggen but continue straight ahead along the trail where you turn left towards the water when you go to Sjöväggen. Continue the path about 200 meters and turn left immediately after a telephone line.
To get to "Balkongen" you can continue the path a few meters to a fireplace and from there move down to the water. Balkongen can also be reached from the main wall via a sling/bolt at the far left of the main wall.
Lilla grottan is located just 40 meters south from the main wall. Just before you arrive at Högklint the path divides and you walk left up the hill and then follow the cliff edge leftwards until you relatively easily can climb down. When you have climbed down the little nice "cave" is just a few meters to the right.
To reach the Svaväggen DWS, take the same approach as to Lilla Grottan, but follow the waterline south to Svaväggen where you can reach the start of the DWS routes dry by walking over a rocky 'beach'.