The Rack
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The Rack 1 / 3
  • Start on good holds under the left side of the roof, then reach out and climb the edges on the lip with some guile.
  • Do all the hard climbing for 'The Hangman's Noose' and continue along the lip with some difficulty. Top out as for 'Flayed Alive.'
  • Campus from the jug to a good sloper, sling a heel up and top out.
  • Use clever heels and some wizardry to reach the guppy on the nose. Top out more easily from here.
  • Climb 'Flayed Alive' until the good flake and then traverse back along the edges on the lip. The upper ledge holds can be used after the vague crack but not before (see topo 2 for line). Top out just right of 'The Hangman" using a heartbreaker sloper with your right and reaching for the good flatty with your left.
  • Long and committing climbing to gain an easier, but high, top out.
The Rack
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The Rack 2 / 3
  • From jugs, reach a good sloper and then top out up the slab.
  • Sit start. Pull on at good edges, catch the sidepull and stand for the top jugs. Finish boldly up the slab or traverse off.
  • Pull from a sit on two small edges to gain good holds and the stand start position.
  • Mantle the big shelf and top out esaily
  • From the jugs in the break, climb the shallow groove.
  • Start as for 'The Hangman's Noose' and climb up the shallow groove above.
  • Start on good holds under the left side of the roof, then reach out and climb the edges on the lip with some guile.
  • Climb 'Flayed Alive' until the good flake and then traverse back along the edges on the lip. The upper ledge holds can be used after the vague crack but not before (see topo 2 for line). Top out just right of 'The Hangman" using a heartbreaker sloper with your right and reaching for the good flatty with your left.
  • Start at the flat hold on the far right and traverse up and left to gain the rail. Follow this to below the Hangman corner then use the diagonal undercuts to gain the good break and a finish up North Wall.
The Rack
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The Rack 3 / 3
  • Use clever heels and some wizardry to reach the guppy on the nose. Top out more easily from here.
  • Long and committing climbing to gain an easier, but high, top out.
  • Start at the flat hold on the far right and traverse up and left to gain the rail. Follow this to below the Hangman corner then use the diagonal undercuts to gain the good break and a finish up North Wall.
  • Climb the foreboding blunt arete on marginal ripples.
Flaystones

The area is access sensitive!

Park in Middlesmoor car park and then to the crag itself is about an hour and a half on foot.

Please be aware there is no vehicular access and no public right of way along the road itself however there are various public rights of way detailed on a map at Middlesmoor car park.

Use an OS map to find the footpaths and appropriate access routes to the crag.

The crag is on open access land and dogs must be kept under close control at all times:
"You must keep your dog on a lead no more than 2 metres long on open access land."

It is on an area with ground nesting birds so can be closed during nesting season. See the Natural England website for more information.