140km (2 hours) from Umeå right pass the small Society Fredrika is this sportcrag that contains some scattered walls along a small mountainside.
Just park in the open spot next to the road that passes right below the crag. The climbing can be spotted from the road but it takes a good eye since there is a ridge covered with trees between the parking lot and the climbing walls. The approach is steep the first and last part but most over a flat clear cutting which is getting full of smaller trees by now. Total distance is ~350m (10 minutes) and the standard approach takes you to The Gift sector.
The height differs from very short routes (8m) up to 26m on Kungväggen. The angles vary but typically vertical to slightly overhanging (some steeper) with some smaller roofs.
The rock type is granite, the typical loose inland-granite common in this part of Västerbotten.
The climbing style is also quite typical with technical climbing on mostly small to medium crimps, a few slopers and not enough jugs.
There's a lot of work put in every route to remove all the loose holds/rock but stay alert and wear a helmet - things still fall off sometimes. There is still room for more routes here so routesmiths are welcome. We hope to reach 50 routes here within a few years, and hopefully the crag will see more traffic over time. The total potential is probably around 50-70 routes, or hopefully 80-90 with some variations and intermediate anchors.
For some reason all the new routes we put up here ends up 2 grades harder than expected, things look easy and feels harder once you started climbing. But the grades are adjusted accordingly and should be considered correct, as correct they can be when only a few climbers have climbed here. Keep commenting when you get up a route an time will tell! The bolting is friendly with stainless bolts and carbiner-anchors on all routes.
GEAR: 15 quickdraws and a 60m rope (50m rope takes you down most of the routes but could be a bit too exiting (short) on Kungsväggen). A clipstick saves at lot of time if you want to put up a toprope on something too hard (hangdog up) since the way around is quite a walk (and rappeling).
