This might be Stockholm's most surreal-looking rock, as if a cosmic discus had plummeted from the heavens and embedded itself diagonally into the earth. Its pointed peak reaches toward infinity, making the wall seem to extend endlessly into the sky. Incredibly flat, and nestled in a tranquil woodland near a picturesque beach, this formation exudes an otherworldly presence.
The gentle angle of the crag might tempt you to believe you could simply saunter up its face in sneakers. Yet the climbing remains engaging, with certain routes featuring brief but intricate sequences of small, delicate crimps instead of relying solely on friction. The rock itself, with its slightly slate-like texture, possesses an enigmatic quality—at times slick, at times grippy, always intriguing. It invites climbers with its peculiar charm, offering a challenge that is both playful and profound. Some routes provide sustained climbing of an impressive length, a rarity in the Stockholm area. The rock extends about 50 meters in length and rises to a maximum height of 30 meters. Protection is primarily achieved using small nuts in thin cracks, though a few routes are adorned with a handful of bolts.
This is a welcoming crag for beginners, as many routes can be top-roped from shared anchors, which are conveniently accessible from above. The cliff underwent rejuvenation in 2016, with another refresh in 2022, including new bolts and anchors, as well as thorough brushing and clearing. Yet nature, like the shifting dust of the cosmos, always reclaims its space—so bring a brush, as the routes tend to gather debris over time. A small platform has been constructed at the base, providing stability on the otherwise soft ground. This southeast-facing crag is particularly inviting in spring and autumn, best enjoyed by early risers who greet the morning sun. The approach is family-friendly, as the ground beneath the wall is relatively safe (though slightly overgrown), and the parking lot is conveniently close.
Environment:
Southeast. Sun in the morning and a bit into the afternoon. A lot of trees down at the base, but very open ones up on the face. The nearest beach isn't fantastic but there is a nice sandy beach further away along the cape (about 150 meters west along the water) that fits perfectly if you want to finish the day with a refreshing swim.
