This might be Stockholm's most surreal-looking rock, appearing like a discus fallen down from space and landed on its edge diagonally down into the soil. The pointed peak of the crag also makes the wall seem to continue into eternity. Incredibly flat, smooth and with a very nice wall located in a wooded area near a nice beach.
The low angle of this crag may make you think that you could just take a stroll right up the face using only your sneakers. But the climbing is nevertheless pretty entertaining and some of the routes have shorter passages with difficult small edge crimpy moves instead of pure friction climbing. The rock is funny and slightly slate-like, which can be slippery. It's appealing and interesting in a quirky way. A couple of the routes offer continuous climbing of a length that is rare around Stockholm. The rock is about 50 meters long and a maximum of 30 meters high. Protection is mostly done with small nuts in thin cracks. Some routes, however, have a smaller number of bolts.
This is a suitable crag for beginners as you can top rope many routes from the same anchor. The anchors are also quite easy to access from above. The cliff got a refresh in 2016 (and also 2022, with some new bolts and anchors), with brushing and clearing of sly. However, remember to bring a brush as many of the routes tend to get messy after a while. A small platform has also been built by the wall because the ground is quite soft. Good spring/autumn crag if you are alert in the morning as it is facing southeast. It should work well to bring children here because the ground below the wall is quite safe (though a bit bushy) and it is close to the parking lot.
Environment:
Southeast. Sun in the morning and a bit into the afternoon. A lot of trees down at the base, but very open ones up on the face. The nearest beach isn't fantastic but there is a nice sandy beach further away along the cape (about 150 meters west along the water) that fits perfectly if you want to finish the day with a refreshing swim.
