Description

Gubben i berget is a very good sport climbing crag with routes in most grades. Here you will find some long and steep but easy routes on big holds, something rather unusual in the area of Göteborg.

ASPECT AND CLIMATE
The right part of the crag is facing south/southwest and is in the sun after 1 pm (there is some shadow from trees though, especially during spring and autumn). Some routes get dry very slowly. The left part is facing south and there are no trees in front of it. The routes in this sector dry fast.

THE ROUTES
The right part of Gubben i berget is an overhanging crag with many holds. However, the rock is a bit loose. The routes are between 10 and 20 m long. The left part of the crag is more vertical with routes between 10 and 25 m long. Except for some top rope routes in the left sector all routes at Gubben i berget are bolted. All routes at the crag are equipped with lower-offs.

History

It was here that sport climbing outside Göteborg started in the beginning of the nineties (more precisely in 1994). Climbing at Gubben i berget is steep on good holds. Some new routes were put up around 2010 on the left part of the crag.

Gubben i Berget

Climbing has been limited!

Most years there is a raven nesting in the middle of the crag. Be observant, do not climb close to the birds and leave if they seem disturbed.

Check even https://access.bergsport.se/gubben-i-berget/.

🚗
From Göteborg take motorway E6 northwards. Leave the motorway at exit 87, Rollsbomotet (signs for Kungälv N/Rollsbo). Turn left and then left again at a roundabout with signs for Kareby. Drive through the village Kareby and follow the road until you come to a lake on your left side (after a quite distinct left bend, about 6 km from the roundabout you turned left at). Park here on the left/lake side of the road.
The drive is about 28 km.
From the car park follow the road back through the bend and turn left onto a broad forest road (just before a speed camera). Follow the forest road for about 50 m and then turn left onto a smaller path, which leads you to the crag.
🚶‍♀️
The walk-in is about 550 m.