Gustavsbergs vattentorn

Easily accessible wall located next to Skeviksvägen in the centre of Gustavsberg, with a couple of nice routes that make a stop justified, despite, or thanks to the proximity to Skevik. Fairly compact wall sections and smooth surfaces interspersed with some cutting cracks and interesting formations. The cliff is about 13 meters high and about 80 meters long, alternating just below or above vertical. A fairly typical "Stockholm crag" that offers a bit of everything - overhang, fully bolted routes, trad climbing, mixed routes, slabs, cracks, and some moss. Anchors are available on all routes. It's easy to walk around the crag, but it probably feels best to rappel down to some of the anchors. Moss tends to grow relatively quickly on the middle part of the rock, the flanks do generally better. Bringing a brush is probably a good idea.

Environment:
South West and mostly open for the sun, but some trees shade the middle part. The wall is located right next to a small road where cars often pass, and it is a bit disturbing.

This crag was developed first and foremost by the climbing legends Anders Lundahl and Eva Selin, who in the late 80's made most of the lines at a fast pace. Johan Luhr was also a bit in for a game and made the really cool “Lugna gatan” (7b+). Niklas Björnerstedt found a line behind an oak that the radar pair missed and which was given the apt name "Något som gudarna glömde" (6a). Most of the climbs were mixed and probably had a more exciting feel when it came to safety compared to today's standards. Gustavsbergs vattentorn was renovated in 2008 by the then bolt-committee. The routes were equipped with new anchors, and old bolts were replaced with new ones. Also, the number of bolts on some routes was increased a bit. Some pitons were also replaced with bolts. Quite many of the routes are pretty ok/acceptable protected, although it's not top-notch standard.