Description

Probably the proudest and most famous crag in Bohuslän. As you drive towards the main climbing sectors this is the area you'll see on your right-hand side. It looks imposing and impressive and you'll be able to see straight away that this is an area with world class lines. Big leaning arêtes and huge corner systems correlate their way across the entire buttress. On first appearance, the crag looks pretty steep and can feel intimidating when you first get there. But as you hunt around you'll find that not every line takes a big exposed hanging arête and there are some lower angled climbs.

The venue is actually on private land in the back of a farmer's field. The farmer, Bengt, has become a legend among the Bohuslän climbers for his generosity to let climbers come and park at his farm and use the crag for climbing as and when they like. In 2017 Bengt and his family opened up a campground for climbers.

The two easier angled must do routes here are Mallorol and Chapman, both long and wandering routes up edgy granite slabs. The next classics do start to get a bit steeper, burlier and pumpy, such as Dr Feg, Tor Line and Trampoline. The hardest routes quite often take the striking arêtes, so take your pick!

History

Climbing in the Bohuslän area started at Häller with ascents of 'Kaminen' and 'Den Gamla Klassikern' 1975.
'Tor Line' was climbed 1979 by Jan Liljemark and is still considered a not too easy classic climb.

In the later half of the 90ies Richard Ekehed started visiting Bohuslän and inspired by the ethics of Peak District he established 'Rätt Lätt' and 'Minaret'. This would show to have long lasting effects on the evolution of climbing in the whole area. Bolts where kept to a minimum and others followed.

Häller

The area is access sensitive!

At Häller we are welcome to park in the farmer’s yard below the mountain. Pay the parking fee as instructed and be careful of grazing animals. It is also possible to park at Brodalen’s church and walk a kilometer to the mountain. Good warm up!

In addition:
Kestrels and ravens regularly nest on the cliff. The ledge after the Tor line’s first rope length and the ledge above the Funnel (The old classic’s variant exit th) are known places. The species are not as sensitive to disturbance as, for example, the peregrine falcon, but certain parts of the cliff are closed off depending on where the falcons nest. Be observant of this during spring/summer.

https://access.klatterforbundet.se/haller/