Haukvuori was originally opened in 2003 by Sakari Männistö with a route named "Slip Into Something More Comfortable". For quite a long time period there was only that one route, until the full potential of the crag was realized in 2008 and a lot of other routes were opened, including the classics like "Jutah 50" and "Unisilta". The most prominent shape at the crag is the Unisilta sector where the routes are gorgeus and tall. Facing southwest, Haukvuori is a good place for extended outdoor climbing season. The parking spot has a lot of space and the approach is really short. Nearby crags Pärkänvuori in Uusikaupunki and Hyyppivuori in Taivassalo are so close that during the same climbing day you can reach them even by running.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/haukvuori/index.html
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Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team:
* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.
* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.
* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.
* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.
* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html
