Description

Herttoniemi crag is located on top the hill near the old Herttoniemi ski jump and it has one of the best view in the whole city. The actual cliff is called Majavakallio and it is very popular picnic and general hang around place for many local resident. The cliff is wide and quite steep. The cliff edge is gradually rounding until you get sudden drop off the cliff, so mind wondering too close to the cliff edge. This urban climbing place has currently 23 routes from grades 4+ to 6c. There are still potential for more new ascents and harder problems at the lower part of the cliff.

The rock quality is typical Finnish red granite, quite rough at some places. The walls dry quite fast as they are all facing west and are in the open mostly. The negative side of this is that the sun is shining directly to the rock most of the day, especially at Terassi sector. Because of the low traffic and not all faces have been cleaned off, there are still some moss around. Positive side of this is that there are still plenty of new ascents ripe for the picking especially at the lower part of the cliff.

Access to the cliff is easy and short from the parking lots. Not that long walk from bus stop and the subway is around kilometer walking distance. Only the last part of the approach to the Terassi and Minihänkki is quite rough and hard to walk by. Getting to the Alaseinä is easy all the way if you go with the stars or go around along the gravel road. Terassi, Alaseinä and Pikku kivi are child friendly and easy reach with child carriage as well, but Minihänkki is neither.

History

Not much is know about the overall history of the crag. It is so open, easy to see from distance and easy to access that it is hard to believe that no one have been climbing before Jaakko Ritvanen. I've been trying to ask from old school climbers that have they been climbing here. So far none have said yes. So far the oldest known first ascents have been made by Jaakko Ritvanen around 2014 and 2015.